QU-BD MBE Extruder v9

I am planning to buy this extruder. Do you recommend it ? It looks proffesional and cheap when compared to a geared extruder + hot end.


http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=11

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[www.3byazici.com]
[3dprintertr.com]

1.75mm filament is a lot more expensive than 3mm filament, so that fact the direct drive extruder is cheaper soon becomes irrelevant.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Anecdotally I have heard quite a few people having issues with this extruder.

Personally, I think the design is poor and their feed gear tooth profile is far too aggressive. I also prefer 3mm filament.

I would not recommend it.

If you explain what printer you are buying an extruder for, we could probably recommend something that has a proven track record.

the price difference between 1.75mm and 3mm filament really depends on where In the world you live, i understand in the states there is a huge difference, however here in australia we've got suppliers dropping 3mm altogether in favour of 1.75

personaly i'm tempted to buy a qu-bd extruder myself but i can tell straight away that drive gear is going to be a problem, you can buy replacement gears which will work for it, i also make some myself from aluminium which makes a difference when using stepper motors that run on the hotter side of things

I have this extruder. I got it to go with my repstrap. I was totally new to 3d printing, and I spent months getting it to work right. By now I have extruded about 10 lbs of filament (since october).

The thing to remember is that it is a MK8 or MK7 clone. So when tuning it it is much better to look at the problems people are posting over at makerbot google groups and than here, where most people have J-heads or whatever. It needs to have a well tuned printer behind it otherwise it will fail a lot. Being off on temperature, of feedrate, even by a little will cause chronic jams.

You should read all of the makerbot google group "extruder stopped extruding threads" first. When it works I love it. When it fails I hate HATE HATE it. Also check out the forums at qu-bd.com. There is good advice on how to get it working.

I bought one, but have not used it yet. The price sure was right.
I've since bought a j-head and will be using it for my first extruder...
pfinucan sums it up well.

Official QU-BD Troubleshooting & Support Forum

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Custom all metal CoreXY
- Duet 2 Wifi w/ PanelDue 7i
- 330mm x 360mm x 500mm
- 750w Silicon heater

Custom Mendel90
(Backup printer - Old reliable!) - Sold

No, I do not recommend this extruder, unless you want a cheap headache. I ended up going back to a makergear hotend.

I think that most important part of a 3D printer is extruder & hot end. I am currently using Greg's extruder and the hot end on the below page. I am not happy with this combination. Gears skipping, oozing, hobbed bolt gets tightened during printing (dunno why ). I think this is related with print quality of Greg's extruder that I have. Several times when I observe skipping, I stop the print and release the latch and push the filament by hand and it flows very easly then untighten the hobbed bolt continue to print.


I need a prooved extuder / hot end combination and also a high quality supplier.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-HotEnd-Fully-Assembled-and-Wired-FREE-Hobbed-Bolt-RepRap-3D-Printer-Hot-End-/281040096095?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D4284497046205225111%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D281040096095%26

nefermu Wrote:
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> I need a prooved extuder / hot end combination
> and also a high quality supplier.

The Greg's extruder is proven. Try replacing the nuloc nut with two regular nuts tightened against each other, that will prevent the extruder from tightening up.

As far as that hotend, I have no idea on its reliability. Proven ones include the Arcol, J-Head, and Makergear hotends.

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Help improve the RepRap wiki! Just click "Edit" in the top-right corner of the page and start typing. Anyone can edit the wiki!

Just found this well written review of the QU-BD

[www.buildlog.net]

Prober Wrote:
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> Just found this well written review of the QU-BD
>
> [www.buildlog.net]
> u-bd_extruder_improvements


So basically you buy the extruder and have to rebuild the entire drive system? That doesn't seem like a good deal to me.

i have 1 and a half from the kickstarter !

i say half because the second 1 is damaged not got round to speaking with qudb yet about getting it fixed (machine hole is missaligned)

i wouldnt go with these for reprap no chance. plane and simple they just dont fit the carriages well at all.

plus it was a nightmware to assemble i just couldnt get the nuts and bolts to stay tight.

also when i did get 1 working it was ripping the pla to bits ! the filament presure is simply pushed by a grub screw which comes loose easy.

add the fact that its 1.75mm which is loads more money.

i bought 100m of PLA and have these extruders just sittting here doing nothing.

Hopefully they may fit the prusa 3 design better as there verital x bars

Get some 1 to print you a gregs extruder and get a J-head you will get a load more support with this. Then when prusas hotend is out get that as that looks the best yet.

it's a makerbot clone with the exception of the drive gear. bought 2 during kickstarter.. messed with it for days and like everyone is saying the gear just shreds the filament. the only mod i made was buying a new makerbot style gear from an ebay source ($12.00 USD +$4.00 shipping ) and it's been working great every since,, PLA and ABS.. I would buy another if I needed an extruder and I'd buy the gear at the same time( there are stories about people modding the original gear as well if you want to go that way) . I'm not spending $200.00 for a makerbot extruder when I can get this for $63.00 + $16.00 . plus there are plenty of people having trouble with the makerbot extruder as well. Most make the idler bearing holder , I haven't had to do that yet... and most certainly arctic silver epoxy the thermistor to the hot end..

Doe you run this extruder on any type or normal reprap carriage?

i have mine just sitting on a self with the other not working in a box

i found that its near impossible to easily mount it to a moving X Carriage

dose the artic silver epoxy really take that much heat.?

i am very close to getting that extruder, when i do though i will make the bearing mod for it.

cwalker1960 Wrote:
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> it's a makerbot clone with the exception of the
> drive gear. bought 2 during kickstarter.. messed
> with it for days and like everyone is saying the
> gear just shreds the filament. the only mod i made
> was buying a new makerbot style gear from an ebay
> source ($12.00 USD +$4.00 shipping ) and it's
> been working great every since,, PLA and ABS.. I
> would buy another if I needed an extruder and I'd
> buy the gear at the same time( there are stories
> about people modding the original gear as well if
> you want to go that way) . I'm not spending
> $200.00 for a makerbot extruder when I can get
> this for $63.00 + $16.00 . plus there are plenty
> of people having trouble with the makerbot
> extruder as well. Most make the idler bearing
> holder , I haven't had to do that yet... and most
> certainly arctic silver epoxy the thermistor to
> the hot end..

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[mike-mack.blogspot.com]

No the spec says < 150C.

Use fire putty exhaust assembly paste. Cheap and works very well for cementing thermistors and heater resistors.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

thats what i read too, i just was not sure if i missed another product. that i did not know about.

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[mike-mack.blogspot.com]

Deep Cool Z3 has an advertised temperature rating up to 300C. [www.deepcool-us.com]
The container is pretty convenient for reuse too.

Don't touch the QU-BD. I have heard mainly bad reviews and could not get the one I bought working properly either. Get this one instead:
www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-100-brand-New-0-4mm-Nozzle-Extruder-Print-Head-for-3D-Printer-Free-shipping/1011128915.html
Shit-hot value at $70 inc.l freight for all metal construction and encased silicone hotend with fully integrated temp sensor.It runs a springloaded pivot arm with a straight gear against a grooved bearing. This gives very reliable filament traction. All parts are machined Al machined billet.The delivery tube is M6 stainless, just as the QU-BD. Maybe that is where the Chinese got the idea from, this is just so much better though. You can also get the dual setup as a pigeon pair with access from both sides. Just make sure you specify the thermistor option, otherwise it will be send out with thermocouple and you need an extra circuit to connect to your board.

DO NOT BUY THIS EXTRUDER


There are design flaws with this product that the company is aware of that make this extruded useless.

There are many examples on the web of customers who have not been able to print with this product without modifying the extruder feed mechanism or the heat shielding for the feed tube.

You will waste time and effort trying you get this to print - but in the end this is a badly designed product that is not fit for purpose.

You could ask why they don't have an example of this printing on their web site.

Funny how things work. I have this extruder and the only mod I have done so far is changed the hobbed wheel on the stepper. But I did that from the start.

I will say this though it dose not like poor quality philiment.

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[mike-mack.blogspot.com]

I have this extruder on my new Mendel and its not feeding at all well.
Which cog did you change it to.

+1 DO NOT BUY THIS EXTRUDER

I bought one for my Ordbot when I first started. It is cheap and nasty. It would jam and slip all the time. I wasted so much time trying to get it to work. I even drilled out the barrel and put a ptfe liner in. I binned it.
I got a jhead hotend from hotends.com and a Greggs Wade extruder. Proven designs that have had many, many, small improvements over the years. I have since gone Bowden with a variation of this setup.
Do not skimp on the extruder.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MK7-Stainless-Steel-Extruder-Drive-Gear-Hobbed-Gear-For-Reprap-3D-Printer-/251618046413?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a959ab1cd

this guy.

i must have had strange luck with mine, most all of my issues with this extruder have been user error, or forgetting to tighten things up after a lot of use.

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[mike-mack.blogspot.com]

Unfortunately NO. Bought a dual version of this and it took months and lots of added expense to get them working at all. Do more research and spend a little more. it'll be worth it.

MC

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{[www.bearcnc.com]} {[www.facebook.com]}

Heck, since my post here last week I wound up rebuilding my hotend and step-struder yet again. This time around I had gained a little experience with printing stuff (kind of) and have trolled in related threads on the subject enough to glean a better understanding of what works and why I think.





I know to do it all over again I would definitely opt for buying a quality hotend assembly and piece together the remaining components of a direct drive or (better still) a geared extruder head for it. However I am working with what I have as much as possible with any real supplies a week or more away by mail.

Basically the new filament guide block raises the extruder off of the hotend by a little more than 25mm. There is a Teflon lining in the feeder hole and (though not shown here) the block is ventilated on either side of the feeder hole. A quick trip to the hardware store then yielded some make-shift heatsink washers to upgrade the barrel section.

I mounted the 40mm fan on the front again (without its OEM heatsink) and used aluminum tape to make a simple shield that keeps the air flow above the heater block and directed across the washers.

My machine has been a completely different animal since doing this the other day. It actually prints; consecutively and consistently & IMO the resolution is nothing to sneeze at either. It has finally been a lot of fun.





Definately consider deeply what you get as the heart of your printer. It can save you a ton of time frustration and money in the short run to invest in a quality set up.

MC

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