Show Your Best Recent Prints (Pics Inside)

I am curious as to the RepRaper (...plural RepRapai?) state of the union. I thought it might be fun to explore the printing quality the average 3D printing hobbyist is achieving nowadays.

Here is a print I made last night:



Print Stats:
3D Model (STL): Yoda Lite by Faberdasher
Filament: "Christmas Green" PLA By RepRaper
RepRap: RepRap Pro Huxley (Though Heavily Modified)
Hot-End: Custom Made w/ 0.5mm Nozzel and QUBD's Ceramic Heating Element
Slicing Program: Slic3r 0.9.8 (Go Get This!)
Slicing Parameters: 0.2mm Layers, Hollow, Single Perimeter, 185C, Full Fan
Post Print Processing: None

I am hoping you might follow suit and show one of your nice recent prints. It would be great to get a run down, on your printer parts, and paraphernalia. Seeing what you guys are using usually helps me pick parts and pieces to try out:

I would also love to see links to the STLs you are using, so other members can try to "beat" you as it were

P.S. Does anyone know where I can find the STL for the Chess Rook that has a staircase inside of it? I can't find it for the life of me. The Form1 guys were using that as a demo piece, and I want to try it out!

---

FabberForge - Printing Happiness

[www.fabberforge.com]

There's a whole subforum devoted to this kind of thing.
[forums.reprap.org]

That does look pretty nice though.

Crispy,

I sometimes doubt there is enough activity here to warrant a general forum page as it stands.

I herby invoke your honor, and demand a nice print picture.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2013 10:05PM by Idolcrasher.

Here's that rook, but you have to buy it.
[www.the3dstudio.com]

Wow, a for pay STL site.

Here's that rook I printed ages ago. Entire spiral is intact. Next to it is my favorite latest print.. A 40x40x40 one perimeter walled box!


Since that box is so sweet here's it straight off the printer. Check out that sexy seam!

Idolcrasher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Wow, a for pay STL site.

I give you one guess what company bought them.
[www.the3dstudio.com]

3D systems eh....

So our choices are the blood suckers at 3D systems who have done more in recent years to hurt the expansion of 3D printing than help...

Or the blood suckers at MakerBot who want to close source their products built with our open source ideas...

We need a RepRap Community flavored STL sharing depot.

That's a sexy box btw (That's what she said!)

You paid them $15 for an STL? Ouch...

Worse. I signed up for a Cubify account so I could buy that shoe too.

Billy, I aspire to one day produce a single wall block with edges as mint as that!
Nice. And the Rook too.


Edit: Billy, how bout some details on the setup. What build of machine, what type of drives are you using on X, Y, and X, and details about your hotend, speeds, and material as well? etc etc etc?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2013 03:34AM by xclusive585.

Idolcrasher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 3D systems eh....
>
> So our choices are the blood suckers at 3D systems
> who have done more in recent years to hurt the
> expansion of 3D printing than help...
>
> Or the blood suckers at MakerBot who want to close
> source their products built with our open source
> ideas...
>
> We need a RepRap Community flavored STL sharing
> depot.

Idol, check in the "Object Repository" Sub-fourm, there is some discussion there. Weigh in with your opinions etc.

I've been chasing the quality dragon lately, and fully understand and respect that 40mm box. More so than the Yoda or rook.

interesting... 3dstudio posted it in feb 2011...
this link shows bublication of pictures in march 2013.

i think 3dstudio didnt do the design but modelled it and generated the stl. and now sell the stl file...

Does this mean that i would be allowed to model it, stl it and sell it too?

I could be wrong.... But I think that most things you draw from scratch are fair game...

> Edit: Billy, how bout some details on the setup.
> What build of machine, what type of drives are you
> using on X, Y, and X, and details about your
> hotend, speeds, and material as well? etc etc etc?

My workhorse Printxel (Double pulley belt XY for torque. Belt Z. Nema14 all around. 20:1ish 3mm filament drive. 25W heater. 1/2" melt zone. 0.5ish aluminum nozzle. 1mm-ish exit path. Igus bushings in tubes on aluminum 3/8" rods. heli tail pulleys and belts.) PLA. KISSlicer. 0.33 layers. Probably 0.65 thread width, but maybe 0.75. 2mm retract @ 25. Speed was either 30 or 50. Marlin defaults other than steps and PID. +-0.5 temp swings.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2013 11:25AM by billyzelsnack.

billyzelsnack Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> > Edit: Billy, how bout some details on the
> setup.
> > What build of machine, what type of drives are
> you
> > using on X, Y, and X, and details about your
> > hotend, speeds, and material as well? etc etc
> etc?
>
> My workhorse Printxel (Double pulley belt XY for
> torque. Belt Z. Nema14 all around. 20:1ish 3mm
> filament drive. 25W heater. 1/2" melt zone. 0.5ish
> aluminum nozzle. 1mm-ish exit path. Igus bushings
> in tubes on aluminum 3/8" rods. heli tail pulleys
> and belts.) PLA. KISSlicer. 0.33 layers. Probably
> 0.65 thread width, but maybe 0.75. 2mm retract @
> 25. Speed was either 30 or 50. Marlin defaults
> other than steps and PID. +-0.5 temp swings.
Nice, is that a makergear hotend you have or something else or something custom?
The pulleys are not only adding torque for you but resolution as well, not that it matters for a cube but it must help with the details on things like that rook.
And to use nema14's all the way around, nice! Probably much quieter than 17's :-)

Thanks for sharing man.

Well this thread is a stunning success,

One legitimate reply and it was a hollow box.. /*face-palm

I'd post my best work, but it's a yoda at .05 and not any nicer than yours. ;-)


And don't hate on his hollow box, I think it's impressive.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2013 02:05PM by xclusive585.

The hollow box is probably one of the most impressive prints from a RepRap I have seen. Perfectly smooth faces with no Z ripple or other artifacts is very very hard to achieve. Organic shaped prints such as yoda can cover up a lot of sins that get lost in the details of the STL file.

tl;dr: Don't hate on the smooth box.

Buwahahahaha

That's not even close to my best print. That is just literally the last thing off of my printer.

Two months ago when I was using a 0.35mm nozzle and sub 0.2mm layer heights, I was achieving glass smooth prints.

Trick is, that literally would quadruple printing time compared to how I printed the Yoda above.

Hahahahahha,

I use single wall objects to calibrate my printers.

I have a trash bag full of nicer single walled objects

/* gauntlet dropped

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2013 02:14PM by Idolcrasher.

crispy1 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The hollow box is probably one of the most
> impressive prints from a RepRap I have seen.
> Perfectly smooth faces with no Z ripple or other
> artifacts is very very hard to achieve. Organic
> shaped prints such as yoda can cover up a lot of
> sins that get lost in the details of the STL
> file.
>
> tl;dr: Don't hate on the smooth box.

And NOTE, he has BELTS on Z....

Going back to my feeling my prusa would benefit greatly by switching Z to belts. I really would like to know if ballscrews or Acmes can even look as good as that....

Belted Z is a bit of a conundrum for me.

I have a SeeMeCNC with a belted Z-axis. The concept is sound; but the implementations I have worked with first hand need work...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2013 02:15PM by Idolcrasher.

xclusive585 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Nice, is that a makergear hotend you have or
> something else or something custom?
> The pulleys are not only adding torque for you but
> resolution as well, not that it matters for a cube
> but it must help with the details on things like
> that rook.
> And to use nema14's all the way around, nice!
> Probably much quieter than 17's :-)
>
> Thanks for sharing man.

Hotend is custom. Drilled 3/8" aluminum rod for nozzle push fit into aluminum block with two resistors. Hot side aluminum block is clamped with a 1mm gap using stainless steel strap to a second fan cooled cold side aluminum block with a 1mm gap. Drilled 5/16" PTFE rod spans the two blocks to the tip of the nozzle.

The extra resolution on XY is probably not really useful. NEMA14 size motors is kinda asking for skips unless your carriage rides perfectly smooth. Doubling up the torque gives a nice bit of safety margin.

The precursor to the Printxel had double pulley Z and the upper pulleys were tied together with a shaft. The latest Printxel builds have the tied shaft and if I were to redesign the Z entirely I'd go back to double pulley Z too.

You want to see a "non-organic" print?... Here are some Rostock parts I printed today...

PREPARE TO BE OUTCLASSED MOTHER-YUCKERS!







This is only at 0.2mm and I am achieving strong reflectivity! BUWHAHAHAHAHA!

CHALLENGE ME!!!!!! ><

On a more humble note. I am always looking to improve my technique. If you have any ideas on how I achieve a level higher than this, let me know!

I can print a hollow box if that tickles your fancy lol