Cure to ultrastuck ABS juiced parts

So I finally got around to trying ABS juice. The problem was, my print got ultrastuck! I tried cooling, freezer, and finally a hammer and screwdriver. This did slight damage to the part and my ceramic print bed. I got to thinking (maybe someone else already has who knows!) about pull tabs like removing batteries.

Many of us print on Kapton already and know that it is pretty thin, so by adding to small strips of cross tape at the ends of my print most of the way under the part it had no problem printing over it. I just put some ABS juice on it to make sure that part stuck to it ok.

At the end of my print I pulled up on the tape, with a little force (and holding down on the bed) it popped right off. Wayyyyy easier than the first print. I have only tried this on one print so far. Anyone ever try this before with similar results? Or go ahead and try it for yourself and see if it works! I know I am going to, I was a little upset at how well my parts stuck with ABS juice on the first print.

See ya later!

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Ryan
Quality Engineer & Hobbyist
thingsandtrains.blogspot.com

my abs parts pop off but my bed temp is about 100degc, then when i cool down parts pop off.


I have had issues with pla sticking, in those cases, i just reheat the bed up, then the part peels off, usually without warping, but the parts were thicker than what you have a picture of.

Remove the print plate+part from the bed heater. Set the heater to 120C or as high as it will go, if below this. Allow it to come up to temperature. Then place the print plate back on the heater. Allow about 5 minutes for the plate and part to heat up. Then remove the plate from the heater (use oven mitts) and apply a twisting motion to the part with your hands or large pliers.

If this doesn't work, allow it to cool to 60-80C then run COLD water over the back of the print plate (side opposite the stuck part). You should hear several alarming pops and cracks as the part separates from the plate.

If that doesn't work, heat it back up to about 80C then transfer it immediately to a freezer.

The objective of all of these methods is to induce a large temperature differential between the plate and the printed part, so as to maximize the differential expansion/contraction.

WARNING
All of these methods run the risk of cracking your build plate from thermal stress. I have never had this happen, using both borosilicate and cheap picture frame glass from Lowe's, but the risk is there and others have reported issues with glass cracking. Use caution and common sense, and remember that the edge of a freshly broken piece of glass is sharper than a surgical razor and should be considered extremely dangerous.

I see your warning, and that's what I am saying. I caused damage so I wanted a damage free method for people to try.

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Ryan
Quality Engineer & Hobbyist
thingsandtrains.blogspot.com

There is no risk-free method to getting parts off. The methods I outlined have, IME, a better rate of success than trying to pry or physically knock parts off with a hammer. But they are not foolproof.

i have played around a bit with alternate ABP methods, and have found that using a piece of magazine paper blue taped over, and clipped on with those heavy paper clips it is easy to print, and when done you pull of the entire print, and slowly peel away the part by pulling the paper back against a counter.