Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures]

Thank you Sanjay for the speedy and detailed reply! Love the concept.
I sympathize with the multiple head prototyping issues; not just a matter of cramming three or four bowden heads in a small space. Nozzle planarity would be critical I guess.
...Chrissi

So I got mine set up, I've only tried PLA in it so far, is anyone else finding they have to print PLA with much higher temperatures than normal?

I've verified the thermistor is "accurate" with a thermocouple, unfortunately the thermocouple won't fit down the nozzle, so I can't get an accurate delta, but I'm currently printing PLA at 250C. It's certainly not behaving like PLA at 250C.

I've been having issues with PLA jamming at more reasonable temperatures, and finally got a first layer to complete at the higher temperature, if I try and drop the temperature during the print it fairly immediately jams.

Has anyone else had any luck printing PLA with the hotend?

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My blog [3dprinterhell.blogspot.com]

I noticed I had to raise the temp on the only pla I have put through it. J-head would do 165c this hotend i had to get it to 220c. Odd thing tho. I put nylon in it and it burns at 240c but extrudes nicely at 230c. So how can PLA and Nylon have such close extrude temps. lol Odd

I can also print faster with this hotend in PLA, nylon I have to print slow -.- but I havnt hit the top end on speed yet. Anything over 100mm/s on my jhead and I was geting uneven fill and extreme loss of heat from the hotend. This hotend is doing 110mm/s fill with no problems. I haven't tried to test the top end in PLA yet. I have a feeling that I will start seeing defects in the part from speed b4 I see any defects from uneven extrusion.

The only problem I have is I have to keep retract under 0.4mm, I think mine is a 1 in 100 lemon, I need to pull it apart and talk to sanjay. I'm having too much fun with the nylon. lol

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/21/2013 11:10PM by hendo420.

Polygonhell and Hendo420

Interesting results, I am printing PLA (1.75mm) at 185C, with 0.6mm retractions. No issues. We really have tested quite extensively for retraction jamming issues, I have never been able to make one jam in any circumstance other than turning off the fan and setting the temp too high so heat travels up to the heatsink.

What filament diameter are you guys running? How have you wired your fans/how are you controlling the fan? What type of extruder drive system are you guys using? What firmware/thermistor configuration/preset/table are you using?

This info would really help me try and see if there is some common pattern here - so I can help you sort this.

Sanjay

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I Design/Sell all-metal hotends. My company is called e3d-online - you can buy at [www.e3d-online.com]

SanjayM Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Polygonhell and Hendo420
>
> Interesting results, I am printing PLA (1.75mm) at
> 185C, with 0.6mm retractions. No issues. We really
> have tested quite extensively for retraction
> jamming issues, I have never been able to make one
> jam in any circumstance other than turning off the
> fan and setting the temp too high so heat travels
> up to the heatsink.
>
> What filament diameter are you guys running? How
> have you wired your fans/how are you controlling
> the fan? What type of extruder drive system are
> you guys using? What firmware/thermistor
> configuration/preset/table are you using?
>
> This info would really help me try and see if
> there is some common pattern here - so I can help
> you sort this.
>
> Sanjay


I didn't use the thermister you guys included because I didn't know what to set it as in my firmware. I just swapped the one off of my J-head. What is the thermister that was in the kit so I can set it in my firmware and use it.

I have the fan connected to a fan controller I had for my zalman cpu fan. I leave it at 100%, I may just take the fan controller out because its not needed.

I'm using a direct drive extruder. I have no jamming issues so far at 0.4mm retract. If I up it to 0.7 it jams after about 15 minutes. I have tried on PLA, ABS, and Nylon and they all jam at 0.7mm retract. Now, 0.4mm retract is ok for ABS but its just short of being enough for PLA. But Nylon needs way more retraction. Even at 0.7 retract it was oozing nylon, leaving lines where it shouldn't ect.

So in conclusion its not a huge problem, its not stopping me from printing, and with ABS isn't even noticeable.

I haven't had a chance to take apart the hotend yet, I haven't really stopped the printer long enough. lol

I need to spend some more time looking at what's happening, I've run exactly one completed print through the hot end but.
When it was jamming I wasn't running any retraction at all (I usually don't for first prints since it can cause many issue), it just jams.
It seems like any change in the back pressure causes it to jam, often a short retract and resume will make it extrude again.
In fact when feeding filament by hand you can feel the condition, and pulling the plastic up slightly and re-feeding it clears the jam.
For example if I reduce the temperature while printing it immediately jams even if both temperatures are well above the printing temperature of the material.
I'm running some 1.75mm PLA (it's closer to 1.68mm), that I was printing with my previous hot end around 190.
I have the 0.4mm Nozzle.
I've checked the thermistor is accurate (give or take 5C) with a thermocouple in the through hole on the AL block.
It was particularly bad trying to get a complete 1st layer, it would get 1/2 way though and Jam, I was printing the first layer at 10mm/s.
Once it cleared the first layer if I didn't touch the temperature (or turn a cooling fan on) it seemed fine, obviously there is more backpressure on the 1st layer, maybe it's enough for the PLA to creep and solidify in what to me seems like a very rapid temperature transition at the heat sink.

My hotend arrived partly assembled, the brass nozzle and heatsink were screwed into the thermal barrier, both were very tight, even in the step where you tighten at 300C I could barely move the brass nozzle with what I would consider reasonable force on a AL screw thread.

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My blog [3dprinterhell.blogspot.com]

I ran mine for a 10-hour PLA print the other night. 2mm retraction and no issues. I have the fan connected directly to 12V with an additional fan mounted on the carriage for print cooling, it is controlled by g-code and only comes on during short layer times. The print turned out very nice.

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Help improve the RepRap wiki! Just click "Edit" in the top-right corner of the page and start typing. Anyone can edit the wiki!

OK I did some more experiments tonight, my PLA issue appears to be trying to print too slowly.
If I double the speed of my first layer it seems to run fine at 190C.
I suspect the increased speed is reducing the length of soft plastic in the hotend.
This corresponds to my observation that when pushing by hand there is some initial resistance then the plastic flows freely.
The point at which it appears to jam is at the interface between the nozzle and the thermal break.

FWIW I stripped the hotend down and there was a small ring of PLA at the interface, I cleaned up both sides, re-assembled, and this time torqued down about as hard as I dare at 300C. It still behaved exactly the same.

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My blog [3dprinterhell.blogspot.com]

NewPerfection
Thanks for the reassuring extra data-point! I assume 2mm retraction is on a bowden type system?

Hendo420 Polygonhell

Whatever happens, I will get you guys up and running, if that means I have to ship you new stuff then I absolutely will. I stand behind my stuff.
When I say get you up and running, I mean properly running too, you shouldn't have to run these with any odd retraction or speed settings. If it is only working under some very particular conditions then something is wrong - this is not a fussy hotend.

I'll do as much support here in the forums to help others as possible, but if either of you want to skype or anything else then just Email/PM me.

As far as I can see you guys seem to be experiencing different issues, with different causes.

Polygonhell
Yours seems distinctly like a cooling issue of some sort. How are you mounting the fan? Is anything obstructing airflow?

I see on your blog that you started out with the fan mounted up a bit high, but quite rightly went back to the duct. Is the duct definitely low enough on the heatsink? The bottom of the duct should be flush with the very bottom of the heatsink. Airflow to the bottom of the sink is really important. Is the heatsink hot to touch, or even quite warm in any place, including the bottom fin? How is the fan wired/turned on?

[3.bp.blogspot.com]
In this picture there is some kapton wrapped around your heatsink, it's not a huge amount, but if it was in the way of airflow inside the duct that could cause a really big change in cooling effect.

It also seems odd that plastic could possibly jam at the nozzle/break junction, (inside the heater-block) as at this point everything is at 190C, so any plastic in contact should be immediately liquified. Is it definitely the nozzle-break junction where you are seeing issues?

Hendo420
The supplied thermistor is an EPCOS B57560G104F NTC job.

I see from your other youtube video that you are using a direct drive.
If you have a non-geared extruder, with a not particularly strong motor (or low current), then perhaps the motor cannot cope with the small amount of stiction that can occur with longer retracts. When jamming occurs, does the filament strip, or does the motor simply fail to be able to push it?

Is the heatsink hot to touch, or even quite warm in any place, including the bottom fin? Because you bought a version without a fan and supplied your own fan I have no way of knowing what kind of airflow specs your fan is, cooling could be impaired if it is some very low flow ultra-quiet type thing. When running at PLA temps the whole heatsink shouldn't be above room temp by much at all.

The fan is now mounted with the supplied shrowd as described in the in the instructions. The Kapton is gone.
The heats sink is cool to the touch even at the bottom, though I do have a burn on my finger where I missed it while trying to test it
Am I sure it's blocking at the interface, no, I'm basing it purely on pulling the filament out when it's blocked and looking at the length and throwing theories out there, no easy way to visualize what's happening.
I did some more messing with it last night after posting, mostly just pushing filament through by hand at various temperatures to try and figure out what's happening.
I'm starting to think it's not necessarilly jammed in the traditional sense in most cases the issue is that if filament sits in the Hotend, then the initial extrusion pressure is very high, this might be exacerbated by this particular PLA requiring a somewhat higher temperature than most and my extruders propensity to eat filament when the pressure is high..
Once the filament is moving the pressure is greatly reduced, and in fact I was stunned by how fast I could feed the PLA filament through the hot end.
I'm going to try a different extruder but it'll take a day or two, I'm missing some hardware I can't source locally.

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My blog [3dprinterhell.blogspot.com]

I use 2mm retraction with a Wade type extruder. I have a strong extruder motor that is able to retract quite quickly, so this works well.

I have now run a couple of 2 hour long ABS prints as well with excellent results.

Edit: Forgot to mention, I am using the 3mm version of the hot end.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2013 04:12PM by NewPerfection.

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I had a lot of jamming problems with a specific black 1.75mm PLA spool. It printed ok for the first 4-5 days. Then, it began to jam, making impossible to finish a single part. I also noticed a change in the brightness of the printed parts. Before the probIem started, it had a matte look. Then, the parts had a shiny finish.
I solved the problem storing that filament in a sealed bag with a bag of dessicant silica. No more jams.

I only had this problem with that specific plastic. Translucent and white PLA from the same supplyer work fine without anti-moisture measures.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2013 12:18PM by Funkymonk.

SanjayM

When it jams I always check the filament. I pull it out and its always chewed up on one side all the way down into the hotend. So its meeting resistance and then jamming. I have never caught it eating up the filament, its always after I come back and the hotend is a few inches above the part and still trying to print.

Well I'm down till I take it apart. I was trying longer retracts and now its jammed inside of the heatsink somewhere.

Ok, took it apart, the jam was right where the threaded part meets the heatsink, once removing the nozzle and heated block i could just push the filament out. I played with the hotend for a bit b4 i put it together and it is not geting cought in the heatsink or the heated part of the hotend, only when they are together do I get any kind of resistance and it is right where they meet. I even tried torquing it down more by hand, its as tight as I can get it without tools, and its still catching on it. I set it to 3mm retract and watched it jam on the first retract, I was able to push it through by pushing the filament through by hand quite hard. But the 2nd jam I couldn't push it through at all and had to pull it out and chop off the end.

There is obviously a tolerance issue with my hotend. one part is too big or too small by a few microns i think.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2013 01:50AM by hendo420.

Hendo420

That absolutely sounds like faulty machined parts from us. Very sorry about that.

Thank you so much for taking it apart and finding this out and reporting back.

The moment we have new parts in I will post you out a replacement set of metal parts, as well as some free stuff to make up for your inconvenience. The version you receive will also be the slightly newer revision - lighter and with better cooling capacity on the heatsink.

It sounds like when the hole through the heatsink was drilled there was a certain amount of runout - which causes the hole to wander away from true centre. This would result in misalignment between the holes of the break, and thus the catching issue you are experiencing. That or some kind of a burr, or lack of proper chamfering/lead-in on the entrance to the break.

I've emailed you about specifics.

Regards,
Sanjay

whats the total length from top to tip as they say please cheers

And finally an update on where I am.
Replaced my extruder, and it made no difference.
I can't get the purple PLA filament to print reliably in the hotend, it is a classic PLA Jam, when it happens if I retract 20mm it will usually clear.
I did try som Ultimachine Black PLA and get a print out of it.
I ran some ABS through it and without retraction enabled it was fine, with retraction it too stopped feeding after a part of the print with a lot of retracts. I'm running fairly long retracts of 5mm because it's a Bowden extruder, and you have to take up the hysteresis.
I'm at a bit of a loss on what to try next.

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My blog [3dprinterhell.blogspot.com]

I haven't used mine yet but looking at it disassembled: both the top of the stainless heat barrier and the top of the thread in the heatsink have a taper. That means there will be a void where they meet. If you retract enough to get hot plastic into that void it will freeze there and jam.

When making a thread in the heatsink you need to get rid of the drill cone with an end mill or a tiny boring bar.. The thread can never go to the end, even with a bottoming tap so what I do is have a short un-threaded section on the end of the SS section that goes past the thread and seats on the ledge made by the end mill. Alternatively, rather than removing the drill cone you can chamfer the end of the SS part with the same angle to meet it. See here for the sort of thing I mean,

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

The heatsink was already screwed on when I got mine, and it was tight enough I was concerned with damaging the thermal break if I tried hard to remove it, so I couldn't see how long the top threaded section is.
However given the temperature of the heatsink at the first gap is ~30C, I'd be surprised if a 5mm retract could get the plastic that high, though I guess with repeated retract/primes, the molten area might creep high enough.
I guess it's possible that the PLA is soft at that point when it sits in the hotend or is moving slowly which seems to be when it jams, but that's a significant temperature difference for the plastic to be at given the temperature of the heatsink.
I wish there were a good way to see what's happening inside.

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___________________________________________________________________________

My blog [3dprinterhell.blogspot.com]

Polygonhell Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The heatsink was already screwed on when I got
> mine, and it was tight enough I was concerned with
> damaging the thermal break if I tried hard to
> remove it, so I couldn't see how long the top
> threaded section is.
> However given the temperature of the heatsink at
> the first gap is ~30C, I'd be surprised if a 5mm
> retract could get the plastic that high, though I
> guess with repeated retract/primes, the molten
> area might creep high enough.
> I guess it's possible that the PLA is soft at that
> point when it sits in the hotend or is moving
> slowly which seems to be when it jams, but that's
> a significant temperature difference for the
> plastic to be at given the temperature of the
> heatsink.
> I wish there were a good way to see what's
> happening inside.


I can think of 2 ways.

1. Find Superman.
2. Buy an IR Thermometer

An IR thermometer should be able to read the temp anywhere on the hotend letting you monitor the heat levels in different parts of the hotend.


Btw, Ive been trying to print this green PLA that I have and Its jamming alot at 0.4mm retracts. -.-
I used to be able to print it at 180c now I have to get it to 250c or it eats up the filament. I tried it all the way down to 160 and it wouldn't even extrude till I got up to 240. I can print ABS at 240 and Nylon at 230. It seems Odd that I have to get PLA so hot to print. I'm having so much problems with PLA I'm about to switch back to my J-head till my replacement metal parts come in.

Also PLA seems to jam alot faster when printing slow. I was able to print this [www.thingiverse.com]. But printing all together the leaver was given enough time to cool b4 the next layer so it didn't have to slow way down to print the leaver which is only like 2mm wide. The leaver turned out to be 5% too small so I made it bigger and printed it on its own, every single time it jammed. I was able to print the main body just fine, but when it slowed down to 8mm/s to print the very thin leaver it jams. I tried 5x before I gave up printing it by itself.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2013 06:43PM by hendo420.

hendo420 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Polygonhell Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > The heatsink was already screwed on when I got
> > mine, and it was tight enough I was concerned
> with
> > damaging the thermal break if I tried hard to
> > remove it, so I couldn't see how long the top
> > threaded section is.
> > However given the temperature of the heatsink
> at
> > the first gap is ~30C, I'd be surprised if a
> 5mm
> > retract could get the plastic that high, though
> I
> > guess with repeated retract/primes, the molten
> > area might creep high enough.
> > I guess it's possible that the PLA is soft at
> that
> > point when it sits in the hotend or is moving
> > slowly which seems to be when it jams, but
> that's
> > a significant temperature difference for the
> > plastic to be at given the temperature of the
> > heatsink.
> > I wish there were a good way to see what's
> > happening inside.
>
>
> I can think of 2 ways.
>
> 1. Find Superman.
> 2. Buy an IR Thermometer
>
> An IR thermometer should be able to read the temp
> anywhere on the hotend letting you monitor the
> heat levels in different parts of the hotend.
>
>
> Btw, Ive been trying to print this green PLA that
> I have and Its jamming alot at 0.4mm retracts. -.-
>
> I used to be able to print it at 180c now I have
> to get it to 250c or it eats up the filament. I
> tried it all the way down to 160 and it wouldn't
> even extrude till I got up to 240. I can print ABS
> at 240 and Nylon at 230. It seems Odd that I have
> to get PLA so hot to print. I'm having so much
> problems with PLA I'm about to switch back to my
> J-head till my replacement metal parts come in.
>
> Also PLA seems to jam alot faster when printing
> slow. I was able to print this
> [www.thingiverse.com]. But
> printing all together the leaver was given enough
> time to cool b4 the next layer so it didn't have
> to slow way down to print the leaver which is only
> like 2mm wide. The leaver turned out to be 5% too
> small so I made it bigger and printed it on its
> own, every single time it jammed. I was able to
> print the main body just fine, but when it slowed
> down to 8mm/s to print the very thin leaver it
> jams. I tried 5x before I gave up printing it by
> itself.


what you'll find with a lot of these all metal hotends and running pla is that there is a minimum speed to run at,

this comes down to hotend design and the pla itself, what is sold today as pla can in reality contain just about anything, some of the cheaper extrusion places will load it up with a filler material to make it cheaper and easier to extrude where as people like Vic Olliver do it properly and the behavior between them is very different,

Ideally in an all metal hotend you want a really short melt-zone and practically no transition zone, if the transition zone is too long what will happen when you retract is that you will instead off pulling up a cleanish end on the filament is you'll pull up soft pla which is actually the "plug" which will then cool against the thermal barrier section and jam it up, which is why running at high temps seems to fix the problem, all you are doing it making the transition zone longer and more tolerant of retraction however this will bring you closer to retracting into the intersection between the thermal barrier and the heatsink,

ideally the heatsinks on these things need to be a cold as possible, it needs to sink off as much heat out of that little thin section as possible if it's getting warm then the thermal barrier is loosing it's effectiveness and the transition zone is too long,

a good test is to take off the idler and push some filament down by hand and then pull it out again, what you want to see is solid filament right up to the melt zone length, if you pull out a long rubbery like end that flops about before cooling then somthing hasn't gone to plan

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-=( blog )=- -=( thingiverse )=- -=( 3Dindustries )=- -=( Aluhotend - mostly metal hotend)=--=( Facebook )=-

I suppose this has such a short transition zone that retraction will always pull soft PLA into the cold section. That plug will then take extra force to shift. If the drive is marginal it will jam at that point.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

which is where really good temperature control comes in, if you can get the pid loop tuned in properly ( most people don't,)
if you can get the pid loop to stay within 0.5c then you can have a situation where you can pull the end of the filament right up into the cold side leave it to cool and push it back down with no problems, it should be possible with this hotend as well, this is where the marlin and sprinter auto-tune fails us a little bit, and why i'm writing a python script to do the tuning properly from the host side,

sanjay: what is the heater block made from?

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-=( blog )=- -=( thingiverse )=- -=( 3Dindustries )=- -=( Aluhotend - mostly metal hotend)=--=( Facebook )=-

Sorry but I don't understand what temperature stability has got to do with it?

Once PLA gets past its glass transition it behaves like rubber and expands to grip the side of the tube. the more you push the more it grips. That is why the transition zone has to be very short, or made from something slippery or have a slight taper (like a mould relief taper).

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

nophead Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sorry but I don't understand what temperature
> stability has got to do with it?
>
> Once PLA gets past its glass transition it behaves
> like rubber and expands to grip the side of the
> tube. the more you push the more it grips. That is
> why the transition zone has to be very short, or
> made from something slippery or have a slight
> taper (like a mould relief taper).

stable temperature control is very critical, especially in all metal hotends and even more so when the thermistor isn't anywhere near the actual filament melt zone

the pid loop maintains the temperature based on the thermistor feedback as you know, and doesn't care about the rest of the heater block, now if the thermistor is right next to the heater and even if the pid loop is maintaining a 2c variance above and below the target temperature,

you might see a relatively flat temperature line in proterface, however the actual temperature where it matters in the meltzone can either swing like crazy or run at a significantly lower temperature than the target in which case it will jam if it goes too low,

we've been spoilt quite a bit with jheads over the years because the thermistor hole is on the other side of the block from the heater and right next to the meltzone, plus the blocks have been aluminum or brass,

ideally if the pid loop is maintain the temperature around within 1c then it'll have the heater putting out a fairly constant amount of heat energy and in some hotends the target temperature will have to be set a little high to allow the the variance in temperate within the heater block,

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-=( blog )=- -=( thingiverse )=- -=( 3Dindustries )=- -=( Aluhotend - mostly metal hotend)=--=( Facebook )=-

I use bang bang on my own firmware with about 2C swing and HydraRaptor has an all metal hot end and never jams. I don't see how a few degrees makes any difference. The plastic is extruded at nearly twice is melt point so a few degrees either way has very little effect. I find I need to change target temperature by at least 5C to noitce any difference at all and drop it maybe 20C before it starts to jam.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

nophead Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I use bang bang on my own firmware with about 2C
> swing and HydraRaptor has an all metal hot end and
> never jams. I don't see how a few degrees makes
> any difference. The plastic is extruded at nearly
> twice is melt point so a few degrees either way
> has very little effect. I find I need to change
> target temperature by at least 5C to noitce any
> difference at all and drop it maybe 20C before it
> starts to jam.

it all depends on the design of the extruder, have you got a link to a picture of yours?

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-=( blog )=- -=( thingiverse )=- -=( 3Dindustries )=- -=( Aluhotend - mostly metal hotend)=--=( Facebook )=-

[hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk]

---

[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

not suprising, your thermistor is right next to the meltzone, so your readings will reflect a reliable temperature, and the reaction time of your temperature controller will be very tight,

here's an example the difference between a tuned loop and an untuned can make
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ldm4ssvk1ggts9b/280420131199.jpg

the one on the left is printed at 200c with a stabilised pid loop and temperature controlled within 0.2c on the right the pid loop was De-stabalised as allowed to fluctuate up and down by 4c both were printed with a 0.4mm nozzle using protoparadigm filament, at 65mm/sec,

results like this will be very different for different hotends though depending on where the thermistor is located,

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-=( blog )=- -=( thingiverse )=- -=( 3Dindustries )=- -=( Aluhotend - mostly metal hotend)=--=( Facebook )=-

Just FYI TrinityLabs(disclosure, my company) started shipping our new MetalMagma hot ends in the past few days. And will have over 300 shipped by monday and tuesday after fixing the final remaining issue of PLA forming plugs at slow print speeds.

[trinitylabs.com]

These are tested to work with PLA, ABS, NMylon Polycarbonate, LayWood and should work with any filament opn the market. We held them back for an extra week or two in order to fix one remaining issue with PLA plugging when being extgruded at very slow speeds but now even that is a thing of the past and this new all metal hot end is ready for prime time and is az drop in replacement for a jhead or any groovemount hot end and is only 54mm long and weighs less then 20grams!


Here is a video of this hot end printing PLA extremely fast with no fan on the barrel for a full 5 hour print and meanwhile I am able to grab the upper barrel of the hot end 30mm away from the heater block and it is cold to the touch.

[www.youtube.com]

A fan is still recommended for optimal performance if you need to print PLA slowly, but if you keep the speed up above 50mm/sec then you don't strictly require a fan.

We've got the first batch of 500 in nstock and 300 are already sold but we will have another batch before these run out. Currently only a 3mm version is avilable but a 1.75mm version is coming in 2 weeks or so.

Every Magma comes with a default 0.4mm nozzle and the full kit lets you choose one additional nozle size form 0.3mm, 0.5mm or 0.75mm.

These are now the default hot ends shipping on the Aluminatus TrinityOne and TrinityOne Pro machines and they are printing amazingly well after a few weeks of straight up hot end voodoo wityh no science involved