Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures]

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plexus
Guitar strings! great idea.

Today I spent the day (yes day) trying to get 1.75mm taulman t-glase to print using a E3D v5 1.75 end. no go after many hours and working through all the variables. when I switch to PLA or ABS 1.75, prints like a dream. in fact doing all the tweeks with t-glase helped with PLA and ABS. I just completed a 2 hour print with PLA with no problems. But lets back up a bit...

One thing I wanted to check was the temp inside the hot end body (heat sink). i placed a thermistor in there about in the middle and measured 50-55C. what led me to do this was I print with a 100C bed and 3 layers of t-glase is very maliable at 100C. when I'd go to pop off the failed print (due to endless jamming/pigtail-ing) it would peel off like hot caramel. so this made me wonder if perhaps it was too hot in the body. 50-55C didn't make me feel comfortable. granted its 50C cooler.

So I used a couple thingiverse things to create a fan shroud that would accept a 50mm fan. this replaced the 30mm fan. I tried the fan both blowing in and out. in won and dropped the temp down to 40C. this makes me feel more comfortable.

Print. Fail.

So I am reading in another forum that its about tweeking the extruder filament feed tension. oy. ok i will keep trying it. but in the meantime...

the 50mm fan experiment works great. it keeps the body 10-15C cooler AND is much quieter than the 30mm fan which is a noisy little bugger! wow.

I do feel nozzle changes are a pain and would prefer to accept the risks of separate thead-ins for the nozzle and heat break. and a retainer nut on the top of the heat break to lock it in. also would like the thermistor divit to be drilled into the middle of the block, just beside the nozzle as close as possible. since they are using those small 1.1mm thermistor, make sure to keep the divit far enough away from the nozzle wall so that a person like me who replaces that immediately with the more sane 2.2mm EPCOS can drill it out and still leave enough of a wall. those changes would make for a v6 block and an easy upgrade. perhaps a new break too to accomodat a lock bolt. But hey, I'm not E3D. there are just some ideas from using the hot ends for a weeks or so.

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AlexBorro
Plexus, what nozzle are you using?? Bear in mind you need a larger nozzle for TGlase, like 0.7mm. It is quite difficult to extrude and generates high pressures. Forget about 0.4mm or thinner nozzles.
But I could print it with no problem at all.

What issues are you facing??

Alex.

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aduy
so when are you guys planning on shipping out the kraken hot end for this months batch?

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anixie
Extruder dialled in, and I must say it works incredibly well. Very smooth prints, very detailed. Still struggling a bit with ABS (delaminated like nothing...), but working on getting that fixed.
In all, quite happy with the hot end, just ordered some spare parts (not needed, but wanted to order a .6 mm nozzle anyhow, so added a heatbreak just in case...)

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Madhu
Hello,
I recently purchased a E3D hotend and am in the process of assembling it to my Greg Wade extruder. I looked at the document that shows how you tighten the nozzle against the heat break at 300 deg.C. The problem that I am seeing is that the heat break is somewhat loose in the heat sink. There is no way to tighten it in the heatsink. I have not yet done the final tightening at temp, but I can't see how that would tighten the heatbreak in the heatsink. The whole assembly wants to rotate in the heat sink. Is this normal or should the heatbreak have a tighter thread coupling in the heatsink ? Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong ?

P.S. This is my first time on any forum

Thanks

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w.harris87
Does anyone know if there are any implications to using an E3D v5 inside a heated chamber?; Will the cooling fan still be able to do its job if its blowing warm air onto the cooling fins, or do I need to look at some ducting which would feed cooler air from outside the build chamber?

Cheers,

Will