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It's all wrong in slic3r.

Posted by danlad1631 
It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 02:59PM
I've just spent the whole day calibrating my reprappro within an inch of its life and spending the last week messing about with Slic3r settings.

Why am I still getting the results in the attached image??

Please help??

I was trying to get Skeinforge working but could not get rid of the blobs. I thought Slic3r would of been a bit easier.
Attachments:
open | download - It's all wrong.jpg (537.9 KB)
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 03:03PM
Looks like you are extruding too much material. What filament diameter do you have set in Slic3r, and what filament diameter are you using? Also, are your E Steps calibrated?


Cameron

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Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 03:32PM
Try kisslicer
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 03:33PM
I measured the filament at 1.72 and set that in Slic3r and have also set my E steps. I've been trying for the last 3 weeks to get one good print now.
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 03:36PM
I have downloaded Kisslicer but not to sure how to set it up for my printer. I'm new to 3d printing so it's all a big learning curve at the moment.
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 03:45PM
Also looks like your print is getting too hot, and the layers are not having time to solidify fully before the next layer is printed. Try slowing down by 50% and or adding a fan. Small objects printed fast will tend to get hot and melty.

Good luck
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 03:58PM
Ok, I'll give that go.

I've uploaded some screen shots of my settings, if anyone could take the time to look at them and let me know what I could/should change, that would really help. Thanks
Attachments:
open | download - Untitled.jpg (236.2 KB)
open | download - Untitled.png (179.3 KB)
open | download - Untitled3.jpg (225.3 KB)
open | download - Untitled4.jpg (222.4 KB)
open | download - Untitled5.jpg (209.1 KB)
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 04:20PM
Your extrusion multiplier should be 1. You have it set to 1.3, which is where your problem likely is.

Edit: The extrusion multiplier is kind of a hack as it is used to compensate for an incorrect E steps setting.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/18/2013 04:21PM by NewPerfection.


Cameron

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Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 04:24PM
I had it set like that because there was gaps in the infill and this seemed to sort it. I didn't change it back after i had calibrated it so I'll see what effect that has. Thanks
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 18, 2013 10:33PM
you should actually measure how much filament it pulls through, sometimes if you have the springs too tight it can change the amount of filament that gets pulled in.
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 02:57AM
See what you mean, I'll try that today. Thanks
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 06:43AM
MUCH better!!

But all the dimensions are out a bit. One side is a bit to big and the other is a bit to small, and all the holes are to small. Is this down to calibration of the printer?

I'm still having an issue of the first layer sticking, I've slowed it down to 5mm/s and its helped a bit. I've also changes the temp settings on the bed a nozzle, what else can improve this?

Thanks for all the help.
Attachments:
open | download - photo.JPG (592.9 KB)
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 06:55AM
Quote
danlad1631
I'm still having an issue of the first layer sticking, I've slowed it down to 5mm/s and its helped a bit. I've also changes the temp settings on the bed a nozzle, what else can improve this?

SPEED and DISTANCE are the two major factors to get the first layer to stick.
5mm/s is overdoing it, I use 16mm/s for the first layer, 8mm/s for the first layer perimeter.

The distance that the hot end is from the bed at Z=0 is critical.
A change of 0.05mm can be the difference between getting down the first layer properly or not.

As a general rule of thumb make sure that at Z=0 that one sheet of paper can be slid between the hot end and the print bed.


Bob Morrison
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"Luke, use the source!"
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Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 07:02AM
Where can I change the speed for first layer perimeter? I have used paper to set nozzle from the bed, it just seems to curl up on the very start of the layer, then it drags the rest of it around.

Also 2 corners always seem to life, what could cause that?

Any thoughts on why the dimensions are wrong?

Thanks for the advice.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/19/2013 07:10AM by danlad1631.
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 09:50AM
what are you printing with? is it abs or pla?
i have a reprappro mendel too. pla sticks fine once the heat bed is set to about 55 degrees c,
The abs at 100c wouldn't stick to the glass for me at all. Once i applied a layer of kapton tape the abs stuck to it (90c) so hard that i struggled to take the print off once it had finished.

Reprappro mendel ltd sent out a roll of kapton with the kit I bought. you should have one too. i definitely recommend using it to get your parts to stick. I usually give the print bed a clean with Acetone before each print.
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 09:54AM
Hi KeithCI,

I'm using PLA and no, mine didn't come any tape. Where do you buy yours?

How do your dimensions come out?
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 10:19AM
You don't need kapton tape to get PLA to stick. If you can't get it to stick properly to clean heated glass, try brushing on a thin layer of PVA glue mixed with water (PVA glue is just generic white glue, such as Elmer's).


Cameron

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Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 10:22AM
dimensions were very slightly off. i'm only working on fixing this now because it wasn't much of an issue till now.
bought the kit from [reprappro.com].
Do you have a heatbed? is it getting hot enough?
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 10:36AM
I bought mine from there and yeah, the heatbed feels like it's getting hot enought. Are you using Slic3r?
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 11:08AM
only just switched to Slic3r in the last few weeks. i had been using skeinforge for pla. Switched to slic3r because it seems to be a little easier to use/understand.

Have you cleaned the glass with acetone before printing? this makes a huge difference
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 11:44AM
What version of slic3r? I found the latest one to be more accurate, although holes still come up smaller. Apparently skeinforge is the one if you need dimensional precision but I have no idea what all the settings in it do!

I was also wondering that if your prints are out by different amounts in X and Y, is it worth checking the e-steps for those motors?
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 12:08PM
Yeah cleaned the glass every time with acetone.

I'm using the latest version of Slic3r 3ddude, I did calibrate all my steps yesterday. I measured how far they travelled when I entered 100mm and they were a little out, so I changed them.

Is it easier to design the around the loss in dimensions?
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 01:57PM
danlad1631 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Is it easier to design the around the loss in
> dimensions?

Small holes will generally come out a bit too small no mater what you do. See: [hydraraptor.blogspot.com] . You can design slightly over-sized holes, or just drill them out with a proper sized drill bit for more precision.

X and Y dimensions should be just about spot-on though if your calibration is correct.


Cameron

Help improve the RepRap wiki!
Just click "Edit" in the top-right corner of the page and start typing.
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Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 04:37PM
have you measured the plastic as it comes out of the extruder? try measuring it and if you look at the begining of the gcode, it will tell you what the extrusion width is, and if the width you measured from the head is bigger, you may need to change the nozzle size. i have a theory that if you run too high of a layer height and your nozzle width is off, the plastic printed down becomes round instead of smushed, and this can mess with the dimensions of your piece, its a battle ive been fighting lately and losing.
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 19, 2013 06:48PM
I'll check that and see what it is, thanks.

How can I make it leave a layer clean? I know some of it is down to the retraction but it doesn't always retract. When the head comes round the next time, it catches it and lifts the bottom layer up. I then have to keep restarting the print.

I have a bed temp of 65 and nozzle temp of 175.
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 20, 2013 02:41AM
Measured the plastic that came out. Some of it was 0.5 some was 0.42, 0.47, Will this effect the print?

Will this effect the first layer sticking to the bed? I'm having real problems with this! I'm also having problems of it raising the point it finished at (not really retracting) and catching again as the head comes.
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 20, 2013 03:01AM
It sounds like you may secretly have ABS and should try increasing your hotbed and extrusion temperatures.. smiling smiley
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 20, 2013 03:07AM
Feel like I need a miracle. I just bought some PLA so it cannot be that. All I want to do is print... It's getting on my nervous system now!
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 20, 2013 03:51AM
When I think about it, I think it's the way the model is printing. I designed the model in SolidWorks on the "front" plain, hoping it would print on bottom of the model. Buts it's not, it wants to print on the front of the model. The printer then has to lay down tiny bits of plastic which wont stick. When I print a model with a bigger footprint, it sticks fine.

How can I change the side the model wants to print on in SolidWorks? Can anyone explain how to do this?

I have downloaded Meshlab but couldn't workout which option allows me to change the print side. If anyone could explain how to do it in Meshlab, that would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Re: It's all wrong in slic3r.
April 20, 2013 04:08AM
You can re orientate the STL in NetFabb Basic. It can also fix common errors.
[www.netfabb.com]
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