Printing with nylon

Has anyone had luck printing with the Taulman 618 Nylon that is available.

I recieved a roll last week and tried printing with it over the weekend.

I was using Ø1.75 and a .150 layer thickness out of a Ø.35mm tip.

After a couple of layers it would just peel off the table.

Yes it warps like nothing else.
Garolite is the recommended surface to print on.
But I can get it to stick to Harspray on glass and others have used UHU glue sticks on glass. Untreated poplar boards also work, but they are rarely flat.
If you have a sharp corner on the base of the object add a 2 layer high circle centered on the corner as a tab to hold it down, don't use excessive numbers of solid layers, perimeters and keep infil rates as low as you can.
Even with all of that I've printed objects that stick to the build surface, appear flat until you release them from the build plate when they bend upwards.

The whole think is an exercise in frustration, and I'll have another go at it at some point. good luck.

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My blog [3dprinterhell.blogspot.com]

Blue painter's tape, no bed heat, wide brim, hot and slow 1st layer.

Polygonhell Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Yes it warps like nothing else.
> Garolite is the recommended surface to print on.
> But I can get it to stick to Harspray on glass and
> others have used UHU glue sticks on glass.
> Untreated poplar boards also work, but they are
> rarely flat.
> If you have a sharp corner on the base of the
> object add a 2 layer high circle centered on the
> corner as a tab to hold it down, don't use
> excessive numbers of solid layers, perimeters and
> keep infil rates as low as you can.
> Even with all of that I've printed objects that
> stick to the build surface, appear flat until you
> release them from the build plate when they bend
> upwards.
>
> The whole think is an exercise in frustration, and
> I'll have another go at it at some point. good
> luck.

Wow... and I was considering using this material. Would a heated chamber help?

Dirty Steve Wrote:
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> Blue painter's tape, no bed heat, wide brim, hot
> and slow 1st layer.


I tried printing nylon with my heated bed at 70c and after about 15 layers it pulled my tape off of the bed. At 70c it stuck to the tape really well but the tape didn't stick to the bed. I'm thinking start with a really hot bed for adhesion and then kill the bed heat so the tape doesn't come off.

There must be a way to print without a brim, I'm trying to print phone cases and this nylon doesn't just break away at the brim like abs or pla and cutting it off would make it look terrible.

I have yet to try the garolite stuff people are talking about. I tried cardboard and it stuck very well but left a layer of cardboard on the part when I removed it. It wasn't pretty but if you have a part that doesn't have to look pretty cardboard is an alternative.

no bed heat, it causes the adhesive of the tape to become soft and pull up from the bed. I've gotten away without a brim on some small parts.

Everything I've read says to not use bed heat and that it sticks very well to cellulose. Check out this post. Lots of good info there.

I have been following a few good threads on this. Thanks sheck for the link. I think I am going to give it another try using the side of a case of beer. But that may have to wait until the weekend. I did try the blue painters tape and that failed but I was using a heated print bed.

It sounds like the consensus is no heated bed and about 210-235°C for the tip. (depending on calibration.)
And a layer thickness no more than 1/2 your nozzle diam.

A really slow 1st layer to get it to stick. And 45 mm/Min after that to get good binding.

Print on something rough or possibly with hairspray.

Let me know if I am missing something.

From reading the other threads it sounds like the only surefire way is to use Garolite or similar material as the printing surface.

I had about three meters of the 618 nylon I got as a sample and tried printing on blue masking tape (with and without glue stick treatment) at 50, 60 and 70 C bed temps yesterday and it didn't work worth a damn. The tape's adhesion to bed was just too weak. This was with Tesa brand tape, couldn't find 3M tape. I still have a tiny bit of filament left, I think I'll try printing the same way that works with PC, just to rule it out if nothing else.