First print doesnt look good. Whats next?

Hi.

Today I had my first print. It was not good.

This is my first print that for some reason moved the printed part. I had to cancel it. Why could this happen?

[www.dropbox.com]

And this is my second print. For some reason, the top layers were not printed inside, but the outside top layers were printed. They just didnt fill inside. Why could this be?

[www.dropbox.com]

And why are the outside lines so visible?

I am printing PLA with a 0.5mm nozzel.

Any kind of help would be much appreciated.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2013 01:25PM by Crux.

" enterprise what we got back didn't live long, thank god"

hi,
please post some stats,
layer height,
extruder temp,
printing speed,
etc., etc.
which firmware you using, can you post your configuration. H file.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2013 01:22PM by jinx.

cant see the pictures, upload somewhere else

Sorry

here is first print: [www.dropbox.com]

here is second print: [www.dropbox.com]

I am printing at the moment a 3rd test at layer 0.3 and some improvements i found on the net

will post the results later

about the configuration.h, here it is:

[pastebin.com]

i reduced infill speed, and put a higher hotend temperature for this 3rd test. i am gonna post the results here in few minutes.

print speed is 30mm/s and temperature is on 200° hotend and 70° heated bed

thanks

any help meanwhile would be much appreciated

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2013 01:26PM by Crux.

a problem I had with my parts being moved mid print was:

1. not enough layer adhesion on the first layer. You need the first layer to really stick well in order to hold itself down for the whole print.
2. z-axis calibration off, if the z axis doesnt move as high as it thinks it's going, the nozzle can hit the lower layers because it hasnt moved high up enough, which can some print mess ups

I'm back

I forgot to say, what i am trying to print is this whistle: [www.thingiverse.com]

Here is the third test, with 0.3 layer height

[www.dropbox.com]-
[www.dropbox.com]

and here is my fourth test, and the filament seems to stop or something similar. I had to cancel the print:

[www.dropbox.com]

So, what is wrong here? any thoughts?

hi,
got to step back here, PLA prints very happy at 185,, your hotend looks a bit close the heatbed judging by the first layer smudge " some like it that way".
looking over your config.H file you commented the min Z endstop out is that right ?. just that I thought the min Z home is where the hotend is just above the print plate?. how have you calibrated your E steps and your Z, may I suggest you start by printing 20 mm cubes and measuring the actual printed cube.


some links for calibration:
[reprap.org]

[calculator.josefprusa.cz]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2013 04:43PM by jinx.

Crux Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> So, what is wrong here? any thoughts?

You haven't completed commissioning and calibrating your printer...

Jinx has the right advice, meticulously follow the config steps. With the simpler test objects it's easier to see what the issues are and to tune as you start printing more complex objects. From the pics you've posted there could be several things that aren't optimal for your setup. Your prints aren't going to get any better until you take the time to tune your machine. It could take several hours and trial and error to find the best settings for your machine.

I start with .5 mm thin wall hollow box to get a gauge on if the extrusion rate, layer thickness and axis tracking is correct. From there I move to a solid box with some bridging to see what is happening with the infill settings. When I get the objects to where I think they should be, I then increase the speed. Print a couple of hollow boxes, post the pics and people will have an easier time helping you with your machine.

are you using a fan to cool your hot end?

Thank you both for the replies.

I will try to do a more detailed calibrating. I have tryed but problably not with the correct models.

I do have a fan, but its about 10cm from the hotend, as i didnt found a way to fix it yes. should that be the problem?

where should i point directly the fan? what part of the hotend?

cant do any good print

he hotend keeps blocking the filament.

i dont know how to fix it.

i am using the g3g Budaschnozzle style hotend

why cant i get an uniform extrusion?

any help?

tested with pla with fan about 185° and abs without fans at 230° with 0.4 nozzle

do you recommend another hotend?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/20/2013 06:06PM by Crux.

it's all right.take a time and do slowly.and you will perfect one day.

> he hotend keeps blocking the filament.

Are you sure that your thermistor is set up correctly? Just because you see 200C in your host software, it doesn't actually mean that's the temperature of the hotend unless you have the correct settings in your firmware. Do you have an infrared thermometer to check the actual hotend temperature?

Did you calibrate your extruder? If your layers are not sticking together, it might be that you are extruding way too little plastic. You can also have the filament size set incorrectly in your slicer.

You should check all the setting in your firmware, calibrate the E axis, make sure your thermistor is set correctly, check slicer settings before you go buy a different hotend.

I am not sure. But i can put the hotend and the heated bed side by side on the hotend hole to check if it gets similar restults.

could this be a valid test?

Based on the gadgets3d website:

Thermistor temperature reading: EPCOS 100k

For that you can use "1" for TEMP_SENSOR_0 in the marlin Configuration.h. (Assuming you have not modified your controller board and you have 4.7k resistor in your voltage divider.)

To calibrate your E axis, remove your hotend, put a mark at 100mm on your filament and extrude 100mm in your host software. If the length of filament that goes through the extruder is not 100mm, adjust DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT accordingly. Did I mention remove your hotend before the calibration process?

shilushrestha Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> it's all right.take a time and do slowly.and you
> will perfect one day.


shilushrestha can you introduce your self please you have been through the forum and put coments which aint help to know one in my opinone they snide comments whats your aim and goal are you actually building or you have a reprap please answer?

---

Check my rubbish blog for my prusa i3

up and running
[3dimetech.blogspot.co.uk]

chris33 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> shilushrestha Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > it's all right.take a time and do slowly.and
> you
> > will perfect one day.
>
>
> shilushrestha can you introduce your self please
> you have been through the forum and put coments
> which aint help to know one in my opinone they
> snide comments whats your aim and goal are you
> actually building or you have a reprap please
> answer?

Likely one of the many recent spam invaders trying to get enough posts to post links.


on topic: this is my favorite guide to calibration and is a bit more process-oriented than the "official" calibration page. Like lajos said, do the E-steps calibration with the hotend off of the extruder. A calipers with a depth gauge makes this easy.