Heated build chamber - Fridge?
Posted by hdp160
|
Re: Heated build chamber - Fridge? September 22, 2013 09:24AM |
Yes I guess your both right, and ovens are of course insulated as well.
Now all you have to do is find an old "CLEAN" oven free from fat and grease.
Just let me know where to find one.
Now all you have to do is find an old "CLEAN" oven free from fat and grease.
Just let me know where to find one.
|
Re: Heated build chamber - Fridge? September 23, 2013 01:48PM |
Eh, I agree with what you say in principle, but I haven't found much lost in efficiency. I saw a pretty nice increase in bed heating speed with the sheeting, and I definitely noticed a big decrease in operating current. While printing, my bed is rarely running above 30%, and my hot end - unless I'm printing nylon at 260-265C, is rarely above 50% - so how much am I going to gain in efficiency with a nice heated chamber?
Certainly not enough to justify spending a few hundred bucks on a nice heated chamber.
And buying some dampers will do more for machine noise than a chamber - unless you're using thick acrylic or some other medium that will absorb a lot of sound. It will also likely improve print quality for most. Not a ton, but depending on your setup it could.
[astrosyn.com]
As for the smell, well, you got me there, but I really like the smell of ABS when it's printing.
Certainly not enough to justify spending a few hundred bucks on a nice heated chamber.
And buying some dampers will do more for machine noise than a chamber - unless you're using thick acrylic or some other medium that will absorb a lot of sound. It will also likely improve print quality for most. Not a ton, but depending on your setup it could.
[astrosyn.com]
As for the smell, well, you got me there, but I really like the smell of ABS when it's printing.
|
Re: Heated build chamber - Fridge? September 25, 2013 11:19AM |
That sounds like an effective and cheap alternative to using a fridge or oven as a heated build chamber.
However, wouldn't it be very inefficient to use LED strips to heat the chamber? LEDs are fairly efficient at producing light so even though they do product some heat, most of the energy they consume is converted into light energy which would be useless for your application. An alternative would be to use a Prusa PCB bed or a silicone rubber heat bed sandwiched between two aluminium plates with fans blowing over them to circulate the heat within the chamber. The advantage of this is that you could use an adjunct electronics board to easily control the chamber temperature.
My 2 cents
Eric
However, wouldn't it be very inefficient to use LED strips to heat the chamber? LEDs are fairly efficient at producing light so even though they do product some heat, most of the energy they consume is converted into light energy which would be useless for your application. An alternative would be to use a Prusa PCB bed or a silicone rubber heat bed sandwiched between two aluminium plates with fans blowing over them to circulate the heat within the chamber. The advantage of this is that you could use an adjunct electronics board to easily control the chamber temperature.
My 2 cents
Eric
|
Re: Heated build chamber - Fridge? September 28, 2013 12:41PM |
hdp160 is right. If I can get my makeshift chamber to 40C using just a 200W heat bed that is not even always on, imagine what would happen if your temp sensor for your 1400W heater stopped working 
Your chamber would probably top 100C and you would find puddles of molten ABS parts around your printer!
Eric
Your chamber would probably top 100C and you would find puddles of molten ABS parts around your printer!Eric
|
Re: Heated build chamber - Fridge? September 28, 2013 08:18PM |
Ok, that sounds quite reliable and safe.
BTW, I was exaggerating about finding puddles of melted ABS parts While ABS won't turn to liquid at 100C, if you pass it's glass transition temp (about 105C) it will get soft and will be much more susceptible to deformation due to printer movements. I wouldn't go above 80C just to be safe. Besides, if you can get the chamber temp up to 80C you definitely won't have any problems with ABS warping!
Eric
BTW, I was exaggerating about finding puddles of melted ABS parts
While ABS won't turn to liquid at 100C, if you pass it's glass transition temp (about 105C) it will get soft and will be much more susceptible to deformation due to printer movements. I wouldn't go above 80C just to be safe. Besides, if you can get the chamber temp up to 80C you definitely won't have any problems with ABS warping!Eric
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.