Are there X Y moving head printer designs?

Hi,

This is a bit of a spin off from dragon-fly's posting about best 3D printer design.

I'd like to design and build a X Y carriage printer i.e where the bed moves up and down in the Z axis, rather than in Y as used in my MendleMax.

I want to design something that can still be home built, and envisage using Aluminium L sections, to fabricate an external cuboid frame (similar to used by the solidoodle).

However I can see some design challenges, especially the Z axis, bed and carriage arragement.

Can anyone point me in the direction of any plans for machines like the Solidoodle or Makerbot, or Ultimaker etc

Thanks

Roger

My printer and other h-bot designs do this. It is still kind of a "bleeding edge" printer geometry, but I am getting good prints.

If you're interested in development, you can join the fun: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers

The old school Darwin is built like that.

Quote

If you're interested in development, you can join the fun: [groups.google.com]

Had no idea this existed. Joined.

Also the Wally.(maybe even more bleeding edge, i think he plans to do a kickstarter tho)

Awesome! Welcome to the group crispy. I'm glad you joined.

crispy1 Wrote:
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>

Quote

If you're interested in development, you
> can join the fun:
> [groups.google.com]-
> corexy-3d-printers

>
> Had no idea this existed. Joined.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2013 10:54AM by iquizzle.

iquizzle Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> My
> printer and other h-bot designs do this. It
> is still kind of a "bleeding edge" printer
> geometry, but I am getting good prints.
>
> If you're interested in development, you can join
> the fun:
> [url=https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/h-bot
> -and-corexy-3d-printers]https://groups.google.com/
> forum/#!forum/h-bot-and-corexy-3d-printers[/url]


Thanks.

I'ved joined your google group, I'm not sure I want to go totally "bleading edge" ;-)

Another option is to modify a delta robot.

Take a look at the Simpson printer.

Anchor the arms in one plane, and move the table up and down.
You can optimize the arms movement for the largest print area.

Video:
[www.youtube.com]

Wiki:
[reprap.org]

Grounded Experimental Delta Printer
[forums.reprap.org]

New arm design for Simpson style printer.
[forums.reprap.org]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2013 11:47PM by A2.

@A2.

Thanks. That looks amazing, but I think I'd prefer to build something a bit more mainstream ;-)

How about an Ultimaker?

@iQuizzle

Thanks. I'll take a look at the UiltiMaker. I wasn't going to go for a bowden cable printer, but I guess I can adapt the design.


Re: H-Bot. I presume you've seen this prototype on YouTube. [www.youtube.com]
It looks impressive, albeit there is no bed or Z axis.

I'll checkout your google group, as I guess a H-Bot may be an option, but I'd prefer something that used belt and had a non-bowden extruder if possible.

@Roger

You should give bowden a try, it works very well after some basic tuning and has many advantages if you want to make a fast printer.

@crispy1

OK. I think a H-Bot with bowden would certainly be interesting.

Can you advise on where I can get a compatible extruder.

I found this one on eBay [www.ebay.com.au]
it seems a reasonable price for extruder + bowden.

But I've got very little knowledge of extruders. I built my MendelMax from a kit (from Blomker.com), but I've got no idea exactly what extruder it uses, apart from its an "All Metal Hot End (0.4mm nozzle diameter. 1.75mm filament)" ( [blomker.com] )
The extruder works fine, so I'd probably go for another All Metal extruder, even though it needs a fan.

But perhaps using All Metal, for a bowden setup, is counter productive, as it increases th weight of the print head (X Y Carriage)

Quote

But perhaps using All Metal, for a bowden setup, is counter productive, as it increases th weight of the print head (X Y Carriage)

The weight difference between an all-metal and traditional PEEK/PTFE hotend is negligible. Especially compared to the mass of the stepper motor that is now stationary instead of moving around on the print head.

Quote

Can you advise on where I can get a compatible extruder.

I designed my own, because there was nothing I found that did not have obvious flaws. Some people use a design called airtripper.

im working on an upgrade for the wades reloaded that adds a second hobbed bolt, on the opposite side of the filament, but in a different spot so that it makes it nearly impossible for the filament to strip or slip. and the great thing is it only needs 3 printed parts and can fit on any hinged idler thats compatible with the wades reloaded. and since its based on the wades reloaded it can use a lot of different gear ratios.

crispy1 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>

Quote

But perhaps using All Metal, for a bowden
> setup, is counter productive, as it increases th
> weight of the print head (X Y Carriage)

>
> The weight difference between an all-metal and
> traditional PEEK/PTFE hotend is negligible.
> Especially compared to the mass of the stepper
> motor that is now stationary instead of moving
> around on the print head.

I was thinking of the weight of the heat sink and fan, but as you say, the weight of these versus the weight of the stepper is definitely a lot less ;-)

As I'm relatively new to this all, I will probably go for a pre-built solution like the one on eBay, rather than attempt to design my own to start with.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2013 07:31PM by rogerclark.

I like this idea. It's something I've been kicking around for a while but haven't come up with a good, compact way to do it. I look forward to seeing your design!

aduy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> im working on an upgrade for the wades reloaded
> that adds a second hobbed bolt, on the opposite
> side of the filament, but in a different spot so
> that it makes it nearly impossible for the
> filament to strip or slip. and the great thing is
> it only needs 3 printed parts and can fit on any
> hinged idler thats compatible with the wades
> reloaded. and since its based on the wades
> reloaded it can use a lot of different gear
> ratios.