PLA jammed in E3D V5

I have been using an E3D V5 for a few weeks with excellent results. Until now.. my fan on it quit working in the middle of a print and the PLA melted at the top of the hotend causing a backup of filament and it quit extruding. I kept the hot end at about 185 and gently pulled the PLA out from the top of the extruder, but it broke off just below the hobbed bolt. So I took the Gregs extruder off to expose the top of the hot end while still maintaining 185 degrees and took some plyers and began to pull at what little PLA I could to try to clear out the jam. The jammed filament broke off right at the top of the hotend. Even if I heat it up really hot, I still am unable to clear the jam. Ive tried taking the nozzle off and pushing a hex wrench up from the bottom of the hotend while its almost 250 degrees. Still wont even budge. I know there several YouTube videos and topics in this forum explaining methods of clearing the jam, but nothing is working..

Its a pretty bad jam, any suggestions would be deeply appreciated.

You could try heating the entire hotend in an oven at ~200c and then purging out all the filament with something like a toothpick.

What about soaking the whole thing in some pure acetone to dissolve or soften the pla ? False nail remover is usually pure acetone (not nail varnish remover)

pla doesn't dissolve in acetone

the easiest way might be to put it on something heat tolerant and heat it up over 200c with a blow torch or something similar

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thejollygrimreaper
pla doesn't dissolve in acetone

the easiest way might be to put it on something heat tolerant and heat it up over 200c with a blow torch or something similar

sorry I'm an ABS man! I thought they both did.

I have it soaking in some methelyne chloride. Hopefully that will get everything out of there. If not I guess i'll try heating it up again.

So, when reading here (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/8s1bq_9LsRM), someone states that:

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The propanol/hydroxide solution I think may be one of the best and safest solutions, especially if used with an ultrasonic cleaner. This is very similar to the solution they use to remove supports from commercial FDMs. I haven't dissolved PLA for 3D printing purposes but I have for chemical analysis purposes and I used something similar. Works well. I would suggest allowing it to soak for a while in the bath at a warm temperatures and not worry too much about speeding the process up.

The same person also warns for using the stuff you are now using.

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As for DCM (methylene chloride)... that stuff scares the bejesus out of me. I use it for solvent bonding acrylic and in some of my experiments at work, so I know first hand how nasty the stuff is (for fun, look google up methylene chloride toxicity).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/26/2014 12:59PM by Ohmarinus.

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Ohmarinus
So, when reading here (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/8s1bq_9LsRM), someone states that:

Quote
The propanol/hydroxide solution I think may be one of the best and safest solutions, especially if used with an ultrasonic cleaner. This is very similar to the solution they use to remove supports from commercial FDMs. I haven't dissolved PLA for 3D printing purposes but I have for chemical analysis purposes and I used something similar. Works well. I would suggest allowing it to soak for a while in the bath at a warm temperatures and not worry too much about speeding the process up.

The same person also warns for using the stuff you are now using.

Quote
As for DCM (methylene chloride)... that stuff scares the bejesus out of me. I use it for solvent bonding acrylic and in some of my experiments at work, so I know first hand how nasty the stuff is (for fun, look google up methylene chloride toxicity).

Ya, I was watching a few you tube videos on the danger of Methelyne Chloride and I hope I wont have to use it much. Although I just pulled the E3D out of the jar of DCM and it absolutely did the trick. If this happens to me again I will try another method. But it sure beats having to buy another E3D. Especially since my Pico wont ship till march.

Does anyone know of other methods of clearing a PLA jam? Is there chemicals other than Methelyne Chloride that will dissolve PLA?

As already suggested heat works really good. Disassemble, and heat, the "heater" and "heat break" assembly with a Bernzomatic or similar torch.

When you get it hot both the heat-break and tip will come loose...no problem. With the tip and heat-break removed, continue heating the pieces and literally burn the remaining PLA out of the components.....turning it to ash. From there you can use compressed air and a tooth pick or needle to finish the job.

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Rad Racer
As already suggested heat works really good. Disassemble, and heat, the "heater" and "heat break" assembly with a Bernzomatic or similar torch.

When you get it hot both the heat-break and tip will come loose...no problem. With the tip and heat-break removed, continue heating the pieces and literally burn the remaining PLA out of the components.....turning it to ash. From there you can use compressed air and a tooth pick or needle to finish the job.

A torch!! Thats perfect. Im surprised I didnt think of that already. Dude, thanks for the idea.

Im going to toss this methylene chloride before I hurt myself.

Remember to prevent leaks......you need to tighten the tip and heat-break when they are at operating temperature.

Learn that lesson the hard way

matador,
if you are using PLA, put all metal parts in boiling water for 30 minutes at list, and then using a drill bit try to remove the filament jammed. Don't use flame or a torch because PLA when burn could carbonized and in this state will be very difficult to remove.

Interesting, I have burned jams out of my tip and heat break of the E3D a few times without it carbonizing. Maybe I will try boiling water next time, sounds like I have been lucky. So far the heat has just drawn the PLA to the end being heated and dripped out in a liquid like state onto the floor.

Boiling water is barely enough to do anything to PLA...it softens it but not really enough to do anything.

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tjb1
Boiling water is barely enough to do anything to PLA...it softens it but not really enough to do anything.

yes, it is but then use a drill bit or something to move the jammed filament. This method is simple and ease to test, try and let me know if you can solve the problem.

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jameghino

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tjb1
Boiling water is barely enough to do anything to PLA...it softens it but not really enough to do anything.

yes, it is but then use a drill bit or something to move the jammed filament. This method is simple and ease to test, try and let me know if you can solve the problem.

I've melted PLA out with a torch before and had no issues.

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tjb1

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jameghino

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tjb1
Boiling water is barely enough to do anything to PLA...it softens it but not really enough to do anything.

yes, it is but then use a drill bit or something to move the jammed filament. This method is simple and ease to test, try and let me know if you can solve the problem.

I've melted PLA out with a torch before and had no issues.

Perfect, I just trying to give him another method, in my opinion, safer than using a torch where the temperature is not under your control.

When you say use a drill bit, I am assuming you mean to grab the bit by hand and twist it on the softened filament to grip and pull it out right? I guess if you are careful and more sure-handed then I am, actually using a drill could be a solution.

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salsabettis
When you say use a drill bit, I am assuming you mean to grab the bit by hand and twist it on the softened filament to grip and pull it out right? I guess if you are careful and more sure-handed then I am, actually using a drill could be a solution.

Yes, only by hand to grab the filament jammed. Twist it clockwise and counterclockwise and use the drill bit tail to avoid flute problems because the idea is not change the hole surface

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2014 02:45PM by jameghino.