|
Printing with the new t-glase from taulman3d January 27, 2014 10:50PM |
You may look at the t-glase and say cool! But then if you are like me you look at the price and go "darn". On to how I decided to start using t-glase. I was trying to print quadcopter frames that I designed in taulman 618. 618 is some amazing stuff, but very difficult on certain prints to keep from warping, even after you lift it off the build plate. My frames are one of those prints that present that difficulty. So I contacted taulman and he offered to print my stl file and see if he could get it right. However, he was not set up for printing nylon at the moment and printed my frame in t-glase clear. he printed on 3 different machines with 3 different nozzles. He printed on glass at 76C 100% fill, .38mm, .5mm, .74mm nozzles. I then paid for the shipping and he sent me the pieces to check out. I was pretty impressed how straight the prints were.
My main focus of getting into 3D printing is to make functional parts that last. Not into the vase making or puppy dog stuff too much. So trying to manufacture these small precise parts becomes a pretty big challenge. Lucky for me there is so many new filaments making it to the market. So the first thing I did with one of his prints was to measure the accuracy of it, then put it in a vise and grab it with a pliers at twist. Not very scientific, but I have been in fabrication for 35+years. While I don't have exact strength numbers I can tell you that it is substantially stronger than ABS, and not as strong as 618. Seemed like this would work and solve the problem I was faced with for months. So I bought 4 rolls. I also bought 2 rolls of 645 nylon, and he sent me some 910 for testing. I will post my results with those. I know shipping is pricey with taulman, but you can put 6 rolls in one box for the same price. For what I plan on doing, the price is fine. I want to sell my work, already have. So I can recoup some of my investment and keep my hobby going.
On to the printing attempts. Now if you read the web-site, you may get confused and think you need a bigger nozzle, or you would have to play with nozzle settings and layer height. I am here to say if you already print with ABS, your settings will be almost the same.
First try. I printed at 225C on glass with hair spray at 60C. Using a makerfarm i3, .4mm E3D nozzle, .2mm layer height ,50mm print speed. I realized it was printing a little too fast and slowed it down 50% during the print. Print stuck fine, was a little sloppy. Testing it in the vise revealed that the layers were not bonding fully. If I see the print break apart evenly across a layer, my heat is too low. I am all about maximum adhesion between layers, as that makes the part stronger.
After that attempt I wandered over to the taulman web-site to look for advice on printing. I got sucked into the bigger nozzle idea, and raised my layer height to .3mm. Slowed my print speed down. Raised HE to 235C Print got sloppier but bonded a little better. Holes did not come out round as you can see by the smiley face.....lol
Put in a vise to simulate the strain that will be placed on the motor pod. It clamps onto arrow shafts. No cracking really, but seemed like it could go hotter.
For some reason I diverted and tried to print out a goblet. I got all hung up on the clear look and that it is FDA approved food safe. However the over hang on the bottom of the goblet didn't work out so well for me. But I included a picture of the base so you can see just how clear t-glase can be.
So then I upped the heat again to 240C. Print speed 30mm and reduced the flow to 94%. Prints started getting better. The t-glase however grabbed a small chip in the glass and made it much bigger when cooling.
Finally good enough to sell. I am sure I can refine it a little more, and I will post if I do. I just swapped out to the t-glase red and printing out another build plate of quad frame. Will post the pictures next. I am extremely pleased so far with this filament, and if it holds up well during my application, I would say it is well worth the money. Stuff prints great! Very good filament to work with.
My main focus of getting into 3D printing is to make functional parts that last. Not into the vase making or puppy dog stuff too much. So trying to manufacture these small precise parts becomes a pretty big challenge. Lucky for me there is so many new filaments making it to the market. So the first thing I did with one of his prints was to measure the accuracy of it, then put it in a vise and grab it with a pliers at twist. Not very scientific, but I have been in fabrication for 35+years. While I don't have exact strength numbers I can tell you that it is substantially stronger than ABS, and not as strong as 618. Seemed like this would work and solve the problem I was faced with for months. So I bought 4 rolls. I also bought 2 rolls of 645 nylon, and he sent me some 910 for testing. I will post my results with those. I know shipping is pricey with taulman, but you can put 6 rolls in one box for the same price. For what I plan on doing, the price is fine. I want to sell my work, already have. So I can recoup some of my investment and keep my hobby going.
On to the printing attempts. Now if you read the web-site, you may get confused and think you need a bigger nozzle, or you would have to play with nozzle settings and layer height. I am here to say if you already print with ABS, your settings will be almost the same.
First try. I printed at 225C on glass with hair spray at 60C. Using a makerfarm i3, .4mm E3D nozzle, .2mm layer height ,50mm print speed. I realized it was printing a little too fast and slowed it down 50% during the print. Print stuck fine, was a little sloppy. Testing it in the vise revealed that the layers were not bonding fully. If I see the print break apart evenly across a layer, my heat is too low. I am all about maximum adhesion between layers, as that makes the part stronger.
After that attempt I wandered over to the taulman web-site to look for advice on printing. I got sucked into the bigger nozzle idea, and raised my layer height to .3mm. Slowed my print speed down. Raised HE to 235C Print got sloppier but bonded a little better. Holes did not come out round as you can see by the smiley face.....lol
Put in a vise to simulate the strain that will be placed on the motor pod. It clamps onto arrow shafts. No cracking really, but seemed like it could go hotter.
For some reason I diverted and tried to print out a goblet. I got all hung up on the clear look and that it is FDA approved food safe. However the over hang on the bottom of the goblet didn't work out so well for me. But I included a picture of the base so you can see just how clear t-glase can be.
So then I upped the heat again to 240C. Print speed 30mm and reduced the flow to 94%. Prints started getting better. The t-glase however grabbed a small chip in the glass and made it much bigger when cooling.
Finally good enough to sell. I am sure I can refine it a little more, and I will post if I do. I just swapped out to the t-glase red and printing out another build plate of quad frame. Will post the pictures next. I am extremely pleased so far with this filament, and if it holds up well during my application, I would say it is well worth the money. Stuff prints great! Very good filament to work with.
|
Re: Printing with the new t-glase from taulman3d January 28, 2014 12:46AM |
Lookin pretty! Oh and the netting is tricky also. It can sometimes get hung up, so I am open to ideas. BEfore I knew what the netting was when using the nylon, I actually respooled some of it on a bigger spool. The nylon isn't as bad, but once you heat it to dry it, it starts unraveling.
|
Re: Printing with the new t-glase from taulman3d February 03, 2014 05:45PM |
I think 110C is too high a bed temperature to print on, I have found that 70C gives brilliant adhesion onto Kapton cleaned with acetone, and easy to remove if you print with a brim. Here my nozzle temp of 208C could be a bit higher, or my print speed slowed down. these were done at 40mm/sec. It's still nice and clear but it could be better.
This stuff is amazingly easy to print with... highly recommended! No warping whatsoever.
This stuff is amazingly easy to print with... highly recommended! No warping whatsoever.
|
Re: Printing with the new t-glase from taulman3d February 04, 2014 03:13AM |
Quote
Antslake
TOmmm is that a JT guitar as in James Taylor?
No it's for my friend's guitar tuition shop, JT guitar
I thought i'd make him a clock! this was a scaled down prototype just to fiddle with temperatures etc
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.