Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems
Posted by RobH2
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Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems February 01, 2014 08:49PM |
This is cool! 
Can you provide more information on how you are doing this?
In the past I have used conductive paint made of glue and carbon filler as a base for copper electroplating. This had fair adhesion but the surface finish was terrible. Also tried conductive silver paint (from a printed circuit trace repair pen) as a base, and this worked OK too, but it was expensive and the surface finish was still not very good.
This Waveguide Horn Antenna on Thingiverse is made of a metallized 3D print and there are some other techniques mentioned in the comments.
Can you provide more information on how you are doing this?- You say "cleaned and tinned"... how exactly are you doing this?
- Is the nickel coming off of the initial conductive layer (the "tinning") or is the whole laminate pulling free, leaving a surface of bare ABS?
- What voltage, current density, and plating time are you using?
- Are you mixing up your own plating solution or using something off-the-shelf?
In the past I have used conductive paint made of glue and carbon filler as a base for copper electroplating. This had fair adhesion but the surface finish was terrible. Also tried conductive silver paint (from a printed circuit trace repair pen) as a base, and this worked OK too, but it was expensive and the surface finish was still not very good.
This Waveguide Horn Antenna on Thingiverse is made of a metallized 3D print and there are some other techniques mentioned in the comments.
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Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems February 01, 2014 09:29PM |
I have done acetone smoothing. It really helps the finish. In fact, you can see the black ABS in the hole where the plate came off. It's very, very smooth (NickelPlateProblems__0029_FINAL.jpg (43.5 K
. The surface is so smooth that I think that's part of the problem. I think I need to do chemical etch to give the nickel someting to grab.
Matt, I've used the products from Caswellplating.com. I cleaned the print in a 'degreaser' they sell called SP Degreaser. You heat it to 140-180 degrees and put the part in for 5-minutes. It does a great job and when you spray it with water there are no beads. The water just sheets off of it.
The electrolyte is also something they sell. They make a Nickel Plating kit that has most everything to get started and sell a 180-page eletroplating manual that is really good too. This is my first dive into electroplating (well, 3d printing too) so I'm not an expert. My first few plating attempts were complete disasters. The plating was black, burned and just a mess. I've finally gotten my technique down and have made a lot of progress but the adhesion is an issue.
There are basially two ways to do the process according to Caswell.
Technique A:
-Clean
-Apply conductive paint
-Tin
-Copper plate
-Nickel plate
A second technique skips some steps and is made for plating organic things like baby shoes, dead frogs (seriously...), leaves, etc. I thought that might mean that ABS would work well using this technique.
So Technique B is:
-Clean
-Tin (you dip the part in a tin solution)
-Silver (you dip the part in a silvering solution for making mirrors)
-Nickel plate
It's theoritically cheaper as you don't have to do the copper plating part. That's a second electroplating setup just like Nickel but a whole new set of electrolyte, heater, air pump, etc. More expense and more time is required. But, I it adheres better then I might have to do that.
I was hoping someone here would just say, "no problem, just xxx xxxxx xx xxx xxxxxx xx xxxx and you'll be good to go."
If you want to get started messing with it I'll be happy to answer and other questions you have. I've attached a shot of my setup in my basement as well as a shot of one of my first failed attempts.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2014 09:31PM by RobH2.
. The surface is so smooth that I think that's part of the problem. I think I need to do chemical etch to give the nickel someting to grab.Matt, I've used the products from Caswellplating.com. I cleaned the print in a 'degreaser' they sell called SP Degreaser. You heat it to 140-180 degrees and put the part in for 5-minutes. It does a great job and when you spray it with water there are no beads. The water just sheets off of it.
The electrolyte is also something they sell. They make a Nickel Plating kit that has most everything to get started and sell a 180-page eletroplating manual that is really good too. This is my first dive into electroplating (well, 3d printing too) so I'm not an expert. My first few plating attempts were complete disasters. The plating was black, burned and just a mess. I've finally gotten my technique down and have made a lot of progress but the adhesion is an issue.
There are basially two ways to do the process according to Caswell.
Technique A:
-Clean
-Apply conductive paint
-Tin
-Copper plate
-Nickel plate
A second technique skips some steps and is made for plating organic things like baby shoes, dead frogs (seriously...), leaves, etc. I thought that might mean that ABS would work well using this technique.
So Technique B is:
-Clean
-Tin (you dip the part in a tin solution)
-Silver (you dip the part in a silvering solution for making mirrors)
-Nickel plate
It's theoritically cheaper as you don't have to do the copper plating part. That's a second electroplating setup just like Nickel but a whole new set of electrolyte, heater, air pump, etc. More expense and more time is required. But, I it adheres better then I might have to do that.
I was hoping someone here would just say, "no problem, just xxx xxxxx xx xxx xxxxxx xx xxxx and you'll be good to go."
If you want to get started messing with it I'll be happy to answer and other questions you have. I've attached a shot of my setup in my basement as well as a shot of one of my first failed attempts.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2014 09:31PM by RobH2.
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Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems February 02, 2014 05:34AM |
A2, you are really the godfather of knowledge 
I always enjoy your extensive contributions and well written explanations.
I always enjoy your extensive contributions and well written explanations.
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Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems February 02, 2014 07:22AM |
Tks
I think it would look pretty cool to Tin-Nickel plate an all plastic printer.
If we can get a pink hue from a Tin-Nickel coating that would pretty neat.
It would also add to the strength/rigidity of the parts as well.
And we have the ability to do this at home
I've tested a lot of zinc die cast products that were decorative chrome plated, and
the plating adds to the overall strength.
A Tin-Nickel plating on ABS would also be beneficial in heated enclosures.
The plating would distribute the heat more evenly over the surface of the plastic.
It would also provide increased dimensional stability in a heated environment.
And it would be useful to prevent the plastic from catching on fire.
You could create electrical enclosures with a metal coating, this would also help block Electromagnetic interference (EMI).
You can also melt the zinc out leaving you a thin and relatively strong shell, (geometry and scale dependent).
You could do the same thing with PLA plastic by burning it out, or with the water/solvent soluble support plastics.
I've read that micro injection molds are made with this technique.
What is pretty amazing about Tin-Nickel plating is that it easily plates inside tiny orifices,
without the aid, and complexity of using jets to direct the plating solution into tiny narrow pockets, and deep tiny holes.
A Tin-Nickel plating inside the hot end nozzle orifice, and barrel I think has the potential to reduce the back pressure,
and increase the life of the nozzle.
A heavy coating inside the barrel and die head (nozzle) would also act as an insulator,
which would aid in increasing the precision, (i.e. reproducibility or repeatability) of the extrudate.
A Tin-Nickel also allows you to use corrosive plastics, for example PVC (C=chlorine, which is very corrosive).
Figuring out how to Tin-Nickel plate ABS, I think is worth exploring.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2014 07:29AM by A2.
I think it would look pretty cool to Tin-Nickel plate an all plastic printer.
If we can get a pink hue from a Tin-Nickel coating that would pretty neat.
It would also add to the strength/rigidity of the parts as well.
And we have the ability to do this at home
I've tested a lot of zinc die cast products that were decorative chrome plated, and
the plating adds to the overall strength.
A Tin-Nickel plating on ABS would also be beneficial in heated enclosures.
The plating would distribute the heat more evenly over the surface of the plastic.
It would also provide increased dimensional stability in a heated environment.
And it would be useful to prevent the plastic from catching on fire.
You could create electrical enclosures with a metal coating, this would also help block Electromagnetic interference (EMI).
You can also melt the zinc out leaving you a thin and relatively strong shell, (geometry and scale dependent).
You could do the same thing with PLA plastic by burning it out, or with the water/solvent soluble support plastics.
I've read that micro injection molds are made with this technique.
What is pretty amazing about Tin-Nickel plating is that it easily plates inside tiny orifices,
without the aid, and complexity of using jets to direct the plating solution into tiny narrow pockets, and deep tiny holes.
A Tin-Nickel plating inside the hot end nozzle orifice, and barrel I think has the potential to reduce the back pressure,
and increase the life of the nozzle.
A heavy coating inside the barrel and die head (nozzle) would also act as an insulator,
which would aid in increasing the precision, (i.e. reproducibility or repeatability) of the extrudate.
A Tin-Nickel also allows you to use corrosive plastics, for example PVC (C=chlorine, which is very corrosive).
Figuring out how to Tin-Nickel plate ABS, I think is worth exploring.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2014 07:29AM by A2.
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Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems February 02, 2014 11:40PM |
Plating on Plastics (POP)
@RobH2:
I noticed that you are using black ABS.
Black ABS has a higher probability of being blended with recycled plastics.
Don't use black ABS.
Use natural, or white ABS from a USA supplier, better yet extrude your own filament from virgin ABS.
"In some cases, fillers are added to plastics to increase strength (glass),
fire retardant (Sb2O3, Organic Phosphates), or to impart color (carbon black, TiO2).
These can cause problems in plating."
Silicone:
Make sure there is no possibility of the ABS coming in contact with liquid silicone,
it's massively difficult to remove, and prevents plating from adhering.
Gloves:
Don't handle the parts with your bare hands.
Rackers (i.e. people who place the parts on plating racks) wear cotton groves,
so they don't get dirt or oil from their hands on the parts.
Soap:
Your parts should be clean upon finished printing, and shouldn't require soap to clean.
Soap can cause problems too, use sparingly.
Use an alkaline cleaner.
TSP (i.e. trisodium phosphate) is alkaline.
[en.wikipedia.org]
Activator for ABS:
Use sulfuric acid-chromate solution for the activator.
Drying:
Dry your part after cleaning and de-greasing.
Moisture will gas out in a warm electroplating solution, and prevent the plating from adhering.
The recommended minimum drying time for ABS plastic is 4 hours at 190° to 200°F, 90° to 95°C.
Don't dry your parts with compressed air, dirt, and oil will contaminate the surface.
Extrusion temperature:
"Adhesion between a plated deposit and ABS increases with increase in stock temperature. 250C to 270C.
Melt temperature should be 1-2 deg C below the heat degradation temperature."
Nodules of tin/silver:
I noticed that there appears to be nodules of tin/silver located in the cracks of the filament.
There is a higher electrical potential in cracks that pull in more metal.
This is also true for edges, but filament printing generally produces rounded edges so much less if any issues.
Best to print your part without groves/seams.
"sharp groves can lead to “Faraday Cage” effect preventing plating in that area, should be avoided."
Printer calibration:
Is your printer tuned, are you having problems printing smooth side walls?
Self leveling:
Lengthen the nickel time rather than the copper time because nickel offers self-leveling in a way that copper doesn't.
[www.finishing.com]
Lacquer, or Acrylic?:
In the brush on plating video they use Halfords Clear Lacquer, it's actually acrylic.
So are you trying to plate over lacquer, or acrylic?
What chemical are you activating (i.e. acid etching) the plastic with?
How thick are you plating?
"For sanitary applications the metallic layer is usually no thicker than 25 microns,
while for automotive parts it can be up to 40 microns."
[www.basf.de]
[www.marplex.com.au]
Silver strike:
Note also that in the Tin-Nickel plating process there is no mention of a silver strike.
But it's used to coat metal, so it might be required for plastic.
Ampere:
The amps for each solution is different.
If your plating recipe is not clear on what amps are required,
use this chart to figure out how many amps you should be using for each solution that you use.
[www.finishing.com]
[en.wikipedia.org]
Read this:
Trouble shooting guide:
Poor adhesion is in most cases due to a cleaning or activation (i.e. acid etch) problem of the basis metal or previous deposit.
[www.finishing.com]
FLOW PROCESS CHART: The following sequence of operation is usually followed for plating on ABS:
Preclean of item
Cold water rinse
Neutralization
Cold water rinse
Etchanting
Cold water rinse
Neutralize in 2% Sodiumbisulphite Solution
Cold water rinse (running tap water)
Item
Sensitizer
Cold water rinse (running tap water)
Electroless Nickel
Cold water rinse
Copper plating
Bright Nickel
Dragout
Cold water rinse (running tap water)
Decorative Chrome
Cold water rinse
Hot water rinse
Chromium plating
PROJECT PROFILE ON CHROMUM PLATING ON ABS PLASTIC
[dcmsme.gov.in]
@VDX:
Flame-activation:
I've used an open flame for adhesive bonding to increase the surface energy of plastics.
Interesting idea to embed a powder/flour of metal into a solvent soften surface, graphite would work too.
Now if you could source a fine silver or copper powder/flour that might make it easier to plate, and simplify the whole process.
My local hardware store sells West System 423 Graphite Powder, I'm unsure of the particle size but it's like a flour.
[www.westsystem.com]
There is also West System 420 aluminum powder, Average Particle Diameter 50 - 60 microns, it would be difficult to plate.
But it might be an interesting surface coating.
[www.westsystem.com]
An idea for a process to prepare the surface of ABS for Direct Metallization:
Dry the plastic (i.e. remove moisture).
Activate the surface with sulfuric acid-chromate solution, this also helps to remove crud and creates micro holes in the material.
Rinse with DI, Distilled, or RO water.
Dry.
Solvent soften with acetone the surface.
Dust with graphite, copper, etc.
Allow time for the solvent to gas out (i.e. dry).
Electroplate.
Kinetic coating:
Another idea to increase the surface density of the graphite, or metal powder coating is to
use a sand blaster to apply it onto the solvent soften surface.
Direct Metallization process generally fall into two classes:
1. Those that deposit Carbon as the conductor onto the non-conductor that you wish to render conductive, and
2. those that deposit metals. Of the metal depositing process, Palladium is the favorite.
Some deposit it as finely dispersed pure palladium clusters, and others deposit it from colloidal forms.
[www.finishing.com]
TROUBLE SHOOTING PLATING ON ABS PLASTICS REVISITED
[www.plateworld.com]
Molding for plating plastics, guide.
[www.qppltd.co.uk]
Surface energy:
Adhesion problem is common in materials that possess low surface energies.
Examples can include High-Density Polyethylene, Polypropylene, EPDM, and Polyethylene etc.
With the surface energy ranging anywhere from twenty nine to thirty six Dyne/cm or mN/m (milinewton per meter).
Normally, polyolefin has a non-polar surface or low surface energy which is unresponsive to printing, bonding, coating or painting etc.
If a solid possesses high levels of surface energy as compared to the surface tension of a liquid,
there will be increased molecular attraction drawing closer together the adhesive and the ink or paint etc resulting in superior bond strength.
Similarly, if the solid’s surface tension is lower than that of the liquid, then the attractive forces will weaken thus, resulting in repelling of the coat.
During the surface treatment of plastic, producers are often challenged with the task of increasing the surface’s energy level making it greater than the surface tension of the coating, printing ink, and paint or adhesive so as to increase the chemical attraction. This results in proper adhesion due to improved wettability of the surface. Generally, a substrate’s surface energy should range at least 5 mN/m (dyn/cm) above the surface tension of the adhesive, paint, coating or ink to be used on the surface.
[www.tantec.com]
ABS Electroplating Grades:
POLYLAC® PA-727, ABS.
POLYLAC® PA-726M, ABS.
ABS827L, ABS.
GE Cycolac S705, ABS.
BASF's Terluran® GP-35, ABS.
Bayer Novodur P2MC, ABS.
Bayer Bayblend T45, PC/ABS.
Cheil Industries Starex® MP-0160RD, ABS.
ASTALAC™ EPC, ABS.
ASTALAC™ EPF, ABS.
ASTALOY™ EHA, ABS.
Ask your filament supplier what type of ABS they are selling to you.
Most likely it's an extrusion grade of ABS.
[www.finishing.com]
Safety:
There can be harmful gasses, for example: Silver Nitrate, wear a gas mask, and a face shield with goggles, ventilate the room.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2014 11:41PM by A2.
@RobH2:
I noticed that you are using black ABS.
Black ABS has a higher probability of being blended with recycled plastics.
Don't use black ABS.
Use natural, or white ABS from a USA supplier, better yet extrude your own filament from virgin ABS.
"In some cases, fillers are added to plastics to increase strength (glass),
fire retardant (Sb2O3, Organic Phosphates), or to impart color (carbon black, TiO2).
These can cause problems in plating."
Silicone:
Make sure there is no possibility of the ABS coming in contact with liquid silicone,
it's massively difficult to remove, and prevents plating from adhering.
Gloves:
Don't handle the parts with your bare hands.
Rackers (i.e. people who place the parts on plating racks) wear cotton groves,
so they don't get dirt or oil from their hands on the parts.
Soap:
Your parts should be clean upon finished printing, and shouldn't require soap to clean.
Soap can cause problems too, use sparingly.
Use an alkaline cleaner.
TSP (i.e. trisodium phosphate) is alkaline.
[en.wikipedia.org]
Activator for ABS:
Use sulfuric acid-chromate solution for the activator.
Drying:
Dry your part after cleaning and de-greasing.
Moisture will gas out in a warm electroplating solution, and prevent the plating from adhering.
The recommended minimum drying time for ABS plastic is 4 hours at 190° to 200°F, 90° to 95°C.
Don't dry your parts with compressed air, dirt, and oil will contaminate the surface.
Extrusion temperature:
"Adhesion between a plated deposit and ABS increases with increase in stock temperature. 250C to 270C.
Melt temperature should be 1-2 deg C below the heat degradation temperature."
Nodules of tin/silver:
I noticed that there appears to be nodules of tin/silver located in the cracks of the filament.
There is a higher electrical potential in cracks that pull in more metal.
This is also true for edges, but filament printing generally produces rounded edges so much less if any issues.
Best to print your part without groves/seams.
"sharp groves can lead to “Faraday Cage” effect preventing plating in that area, should be avoided."
Printer calibration:
Is your printer tuned, are you having problems printing smooth side walls?
Self leveling:
Lengthen the nickel time rather than the copper time because nickel offers self-leveling in a way that copper doesn't.
[www.finishing.com]
Lacquer, or Acrylic?:
In the brush on plating video they use Halfords Clear Lacquer, it's actually acrylic.
So are you trying to plate over lacquer, or acrylic?
What chemical are you activating (i.e. acid etching) the plastic with?
How thick are you plating?
"For sanitary applications the metallic layer is usually no thicker than 25 microns,
while for automotive parts it can be up to 40 microns."
[www.basf.de]
[www.marplex.com.au]
Silver strike:
Note also that in the Tin-Nickel plating process there is no mention of a silver strike.
But it's used to coat metal, so it might be required for plastic.
Ampere:
The amps for each solution is different.
If your plating recipe is not clear on what amps are required,
use this chart to figure out how many amps you should be using for each solution that you use.
[www.finishing.com]
[en.wikipedia.org]
Read this:
Trouble shooting guide:
Poor adhesion is in most cases due to a cleaning or activation (i.e. acid etch) problem of the basis metal or previous deposit.
[www.finishing.com]
FLOW PROCESS CHART: The following sequence of operation is usually followed for plating on ABS:
Preclean of item
Cold water rinse
Neutralization
Cold water rinse
Etchanting
Cold water rinse
Neutralize in 2% Sodiumbisulphite Solution
Cold water rinse (running tap water)
Item
Sensitizer
Cold water rinse (running tap water)
Electroless Nickel
Cold water rinse
Copper plating
Bright Nickel
Dragout
Cold water rinse (running tap water)
Decorative Chrome
Cold water rinse
Hot water rinse
Chromium plating
PROJECT PROFILE ON CHROMUM PLATING ON ABS PLASTIC
[dcmsme.gov.in]
@VDX:
Flame-activation:
I've used an open flame for adhesive bonding to increase the surface energy of plastics.
Interesting idea to embed a powder/flour of metal into a solvent soften surface, graphite would work too.
Now if you could source a fine silver or copper powder/flour that might make it easier to plate, and simplify the whole process.
My local hardware store sells West System 423 Graphite Powder, I'm unsure of the particle size but it's like a flour.
[www.westsystem.com]
There is also West System 420 aluminum powder, Average Particle Diameter 50 - 60 microns, it would be difficult to plate.
But it might be an interesting surface coating.
[www.westsystem.com]
An idea for a process to prepare the surface of ABS for Direct Metallization:
Dry the plastic (i.e. remove moisture).
Activate the surface with sulfuric acid-chromate solution, this also helps to remove crud and creates micro holes in the material.
Rinse with DI, Distilled, or RO water.
Dry.
Solvent soften with acetone the surface.
Dust with graphite, copper, etc.
Allow time for the solvent to gas out (i.e. dry).
Electroplate.
Kinetic coating:
Another idea to increase the surface density of the graphite, or metal powder coating is to
use a sand blaster to apply it onto the solvent soften surface.
Direct Metallization process generally fall into two classes:
1. Those that deposit Carbon as the conductor onto the non-conductor that you wish to render conductive, and
2. those that deposit metals. Of the metal depositing process, Palladium is the favorite.
Some deposit it as finely dispersed pure palladium clusters, and others deposit it from colloidal forms.
[www.finishing.com]
TROUBLE SHOOTING PLATING ON ABS PLASTICS REVISITED
[www.plateworld.com]
Molding for plating plastics, guide.
[www.qppltd.co.uk]
Surface energy:
Adhesion problem is common in materials that possess low surface energies.
Examples can include High-Density Polyethylene, Polypropylene, EPDM, and Polyethylene etc.
With the surface energy ranging anywhere from twenty nine to thirty six Dyne/cm or mN/m (milinewton per meter).
Normally, polyolefin has a non-polar surface or low surface energy which is unresponsive to printing, bonding, coating or painting etc.
If a solid possesses high levels of surface energy as compared to the surface tension of a liquid,
there will be increased molecular attraction drawing closer together the adhesive and the ink or paint etc resulting in superior bond strength.
Similarly, if the solid’s surface tension is lower than that of the liquid, then the attractive forces will weaken thus, resulting in repelling of the coat.
During the surface treatment of plastic, producers are often challenged with the task of increasing the surface’s energy level making it greater than the surface tension of the coating, printing ink, and paint or adhesive so as to increase the chemical attraction. This results in proper adhesion due to improved wettability of the surface. Generally, a substrate’s surface energy should range at least 5 mN/m (dyn/cm) above the surface tension of the adhesive, paint, coating or ink to be used on the surface.
[www.tantec.com]
ABS Electroplating Grades:
POLYLAC® PA-727, ABS.
POLYLAC® PA-726M, ABS.
ABS827L, ABS.
GE Cycolac S705, ABS.
BASF's Terluran® GP-35, ABS.
Bayer Novodur P2MC, ABS.
Bayer Bayblend T45, PC/ABS.
Cheil Industries Starex® MP-0160RD, ABS.
ASTALAC™ EPC, ABS.
ASTALAC™ EPF, ABS.
ASTALOY™ EHA, ABS.
Ask your filament supplier what type of ABS they are selling to you.
Most likely it's an extrusion grade of ABS.
[www.finishing.com]
Safety:
There can be harmful gasses, for example: Silver Nitrate, wear a gas mask, and a face shield with goggles, ventilate the room.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2014 11:41PM by A2.
|
Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems February 03, 2014 01:32AM |
As if you needed any more information there is also this thread on the RepRap forum from a few years ago: Electroplating Plastic.
there is also this thread on the RepRap forum from a few years ago: Electroplating Plastic.
|
Re: Electroplating ABS prints from Prusa i3 - Problems February 03, 2014 01:58PM |
[edited]
It appears that there is enough information to calculate the ratios.
You need some one with a chemistry background to verify your work, and to make sure you don't harm your self.
I do not have a chemistry background, I am not an expert in this field.
Ratio of volume:
Manganese dioxide (MnO2), (concentration was 60 grams/Litre ).
Sulfuric acid (H2SO4), (2.5 litre) or (concentration was 11.8∼12.7 M).
M = Mole/Litre? it's not clear to me, it could also be Mole/Meter^3, or Mole/Centimeter^3. Does 12.3 M = 2.5 litre?
Phosphoric acid (H3PO4), (1 litre).
Water, (H2O), (1 litre).
ratio of volume (H2O:H3PO4:H2SO4) colloid was 1:1:2.5 and the content of MnO2 was 60 grams/Liter at 70℃for 10 min
Molar concentrate
[www.translatorscafe.com]
Mole (unit)
The concentration of a solution is commonly expressed by its molarity, defined as the number of moles of the dissolved substance per litre of solution.
This corresponds to the Avogadro constant, which has a value of 6.02214129(27)×1023 elementary entities of the substance.
[en.wikipedia.org])
Litre
equal to 1 cubic decimetre (dm3), 1,000 cubic centimetres (cm3) or 1/1,000 cubic metre.
[en.wikipedia.org]
Avogadro constant
[en.wikipedia.org]
H3PO4 was added as a complexing agent into the MnO2-H2SO4 etching system.
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
phosphoric acid (H3PO4)
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
[pubs.acs.org]
colloidal manganese dioxide (MnO2)
[www.researchgate.net]
manganese oxide (MnO2) nanoparticles were synthesized by sonochemical reduction of KMnO4 using polyethylene glycol (PEG) as a reducing agent as well as structure directing agent under room temperature in short duration of time
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
Colloidal MnO2 [brown colour] was prepared by mixing the standardized solutions of potassium permanganate (10 mL, 0.1 mol dm^−3 and sodium thiosulphate (20 mL, 1.88 × 10^−2 mol dm^−3) as given in the literature [279].
[shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in]
rutile (β-)MnO2
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
MnO2 was synthesised as a catalyst support material using a hydrothermal method. This involved reacting MnSO4 ⋅H2 O and (NH4 )2 S2 O8 at 120 °C for a range of crystallisation times, which affords control over the morphology and phase composition of the MnO2 formed.
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
α-MnO2
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/03/2014 03:15PM by A2.
It appears that there is enough information to calculate the ratios.
You need some one with a chemistry background to verify your work, and to make sure you don't harm your self.
I do not have a chemistry background, I am not an expert in this field.
Ratio of volume:
Manganese dioxide (MnO2), (concentration was 60 grams/Litre ).
Sulfuric acid (H2SO4), (2.5 litre) or (concentration was 11.8∼12.7 M).
M = Mole/Litre? it's not clear to me, it could also be Mole/Meter^3, or Mole/Centimeter^3. Does 12.3 M = 2.5 litre?
Phosphoric acid (H3PO4), (1 litre).
Water, (H2O), (1 litre).
ratio of volume (H2O:H3PO4:H2SO4) colloid was 1:1:2.5 and the content of MnO2 was 60 grams/Liter at 70℃for 10 min
Molar concentrate
[www.translatorscafe.com]
Mole (unit)
The concentration of a solution is commonly expressed by its molarity, defined as the number of moles of the dissolved substance per litre of solution.
This corresponds to the Avogadro constant, which has a value of 6.02214129(27)×1023 elementary entities of the substance.
[en.wikipedia.org])
Litre
equal to 1 cubic decimetre (dm3), 1,000 cubic centimetres (cm3) or 1/1,000 cubic metre.
[en.wikipedia.org]
Avogadro constant
[en.wikipedia.org]
H3PO4 was added as a complexing agent into the MnO2-H2SO4 etching system.
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
phosphoric acid (H3PO4)
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
[pubs.acs.org]
colloidal manganese dioxide (MnO2)
[www.researchgate.net]
manganese oxide (MnO2) nanoparticles were synthesized by sonochemical reduction of KMnO4 using polyethylene glycol (PEG) as a reducing agent as well as structure directing agent under room temperature in short duration of time
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
Colloidal MnO2 [brown colour] was prepared by mixing the standardized solutions of potassium permanganate (10 mL, 0.1 mol dm^−3 and sodium thiosulphate (20 mL, 1.88 × 10^−2 mol dm^−3) as given in the literature [279].
[shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in]
rutile (β-)MnO2
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
MnO2 was synthesised as a catalyst support material using a hydrothermal method. This involved reacting MnSO4 ⋅H2 O and (NH4 )2 S2 O8 at 120 °C for a range of crystallisation times, which affords control over the morphology and phase composition of the MnO2 formed.
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
α-MnO2
[www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov]
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/03/2014 03:15PM by A2.
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