DIY tech shop defective hotends February 21, 2014 01:46PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 21, 2014 03:42PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 21, 2014 11:00PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 22, 2014 03:34PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 22, 2014 05:34PM |
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Quote
KD0SKH
Judging from the J-Head Groovemount listed in the parts list, I'm thinking that a proper Reifsnyder J-head will be easy to snap-in and use. The only problem might be the situation where the J-Head Groovemount has a gap wider than the standard J-Head, where that means one has to calibrate and print with the defective print head a correct mount first. I've emailed the good folks at DIY Tech Shop so I could get the .stl files, but I have had no response
Fortunately, I ordered a J-Head back when working on another kit that had a terrible hotend. So when my kit arrives I can check some things:
- Determine if one can simply snap in the standard J-Head onto the supplied J-Head Groovemount part.
- I could see if the J-Head brass end is compatible with the J-Head from DIY Tech Shop. This could mean that you order only the brass nozzle instead of a complete new hotend. However:
- The threading and/or diameters may be different.
- The length might be too short, leading to a gap between the PTFE and nozzle where plastic can potentially jam. This might be a fix as simple as getting some new PTFE tubing, but at that point, the cost in time (and the trouble one might have to go through securing the correct tubing), it might be simpler just to buy a better hot end.
- There could be other problems with the design of the DIY Tech Shop Cold End that could be exacerbated by using the standard brass end.
I can't say I'm surprised to hear about problems with the hot-end. It's kind of a specialized part and I really only trust the original inventors to manufacture it correctly. I'd rather just have DIY Tech Shop not bother shipping one and have them give me a little discount. However, from what I've heard, they're really slow to respond to emails/calls (again, not surprising for a tiny business), and at the moment seem preoccupied with re-skinning their website to something quite garish.
Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 22, 2014 09:52PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 22, 2014 10:49PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 24, 2014 12:41PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 24, 2014 01:36PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 24, 2014 02:09PM |
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Through self sustaining actions comes freedom
Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 24, 2014 06:36PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 25, 2014 12:31PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 25, 2014 01:32PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 25, 2014 05:51PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 25, 2014 08:49PM |
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Through self sustaining actions comes freedom
Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 25, 2014 08:51PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 25, 2014 08:52PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 26, 2014 11:45AM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 26, 2014 03:54PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 26, 2014 05:15PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 26, 2014 07:50PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 28, 2014 06:09PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 28, 2014 08:26PM |
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Anonymous User
Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends February 28, 2014 09:31PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends March 01, 2014 01:21AM |
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Quote
thatsme
I have the little brass hot end from DIYtechshop.
the nozze does not fit in the hole machinned in the block.
Other people had the same issue?
Do I have to blow torch the block in order to slide in the nozze?
thanks
Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends March 02, 2014 09:16PM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends March 03, 2014 12:32AM |
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Re: DIY tech shop defective hotends March 03, 2014 12:58AM |
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Quote
A2
If you have calipers measure the bore and nozzle diameters, post your results, a video would be helpful.
Look for burrs on the inside perimeter of the bore of the heater block, if you see any, use a knife and scrape them off.
If there is not a chamfer on the bore of the heater block, and the clearance is small, that would make it bit challenging to get the nozzle aligned.
Heating it will help with assembly but you might not get it apart.
If the diameters are an interference fit, you can do a couple of things to remove metal.
For the heater block make a lapping dowel, use a wooden dowel with a diameter near to the bore of the heater block.
Slot the end of the wooden dowel for about ~50 mm, and slide in a piece of wet-dry sand paper into the slot.
Wrap the sandpaper around the shaft until it's a snug fit in the bore.
Chuck the lapping dowel in a drill, and sand away.
For the nozzle you can chuck it in a drill, and use wet-dry sand paper to reduce it's diameter.
If the fit is grossly mismatched you can use a flat single cut fine mill bastard file (fine pitch) to carefully remove metal.