MakerFarm i3v or OrdBot Hadron?

Hello, just signed up cause I'm interested in getting my frist 3D printer. I've been shopping around and these two seem like the best choices for my price range. If there's another similar unit that I missed in my searches please let me know!

I like how the Hadron doesn't use MDF, I'm afraid it might warp over time, anyone had this issue? While I do prefer the ease of the all-in-one i3v kit, I'd rather go to a bit more trouble of getting a Hadron frame and buying other things separately if the MDF might be a problem.

I suppose since the i3v hasn't shipped yet it would be hard to say definitely, but I'd like opinions on which to go with and why, to help me make my choice.

I'm also not sure which hot end to go with, looks like it's between the E3D which everyone here seems to like quite a lot, or the Hexagon, which I can't find much info on but Colin from MakerFarm says performs identically to the E3D.

I guess I should mention, my largest priority is print quality.

Thanks for you time!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/24/2014 05:42PM by PrintThings.

I have the 8" i3, and after having it for about 7 months I can definitely say that I like it, but I'm not about to start raving about it.

What I like about it:

1. It's a nearly complete kit for the cost. You only have to provide glass and a power supply and filament. I had a dead desktop computer with a working power supply, so I salvaged that. Glass I picked up from Lowes. I brought along my heat bed and they cut it to size for me. I just ordered a roll of filament with the printer. At the time, there was a nice discount on it.

2. Colin from Makerfarm is super friendly and responds to questions over Gchat/Email very quickly.

3. For the most part, the kit was easy to put together. I definitely bent my threaded rods when I put it together, but it's not a big deal. Certainly not a problem if you buy the i3v.

What I don't like about it:

1. The wooden bed plate is wood. This means it warps. I struggled constantly to get the bed leveled. This caused a lot of frustration. Now, I hear Colin is shipping printers with a bed leveling kit. Eventually, I just implemented bed autoleveling. Now everything seems to be working better, but it's still a work in progress. I firmly believe my experience is somewhat unique in this aspect.

2. I also struggled to get parts to stick to bare glass. For a while ABS glue worked, but I didn't like having to clean the bed all the time. I solved this problem by turning up the bed heat and printing on a sheet of Kapton tape. Now everything sticks like a dream.

I don't have any experience with the Hadron, so I can't comment on how it compares to the Makerfarm. However, in my experience, the performance of a printer has more to do with the user. I know I am certainly still learning. That isn't to say you won't get great results, just that don't expect too much too soon.

Lastly, don't be too worried. We have a great community and there's a ton of smart people around here that are willing to help you out.

The Hadron has it's own issues. (Z design actually kinda sucks, needs an anti wobble mod and the way the X attaches to the z makes it a pain to get perfect without making a jig.)

The best results I have seen have either been from printers where the Bed is the Z axis, (Replicator2, Ultimaker, Solidoodle,) or a Delta where the bed makes no movement.

Have you ruled out a Delta? the Orion Kit at SeeMeCNC is a pretty good deal and makes a hell of a printer with huge print volume.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2014 10:36AM by 3DogNate.

I have got a Hadron. It is a very flexible design that lends itself to modifications. I like the rigid frame made out of Makerslide and Mitsumi extrusions. The engineering is good, better than rods or wooden sides.

The Z wobble problem is easily fixed. I also now have acme threaded rods. You can put any extruder you want on it but stay away from the QU-BD. I have fitted a standard Wade.

I would buy another one if I was starting again. Most of my problems have been with the electronics. I blew the arduino and ramps boards and I have had problems with the stepper drivers. Screwing it all together and getting it up and running took me 200 hours +.
I am currently struggling with twin extruders. Not very successfully at the moment.

I own the hadron and like it a lot. I converted my z-axis to belt drive here: [www.thingiverse.com]. I don't have any z-axis problems now. Works great. The hadron is nice because of its rigidity.

Looks a nice job runninfarmer.

Quote
runninfarmer
counter balance pulley system using 2 lbs of lead sinkers

[www.thingiverse.com]

To me it makes sense adding the counter weights, as the CMM I used had a counter weight on the Z axis, and it make it much easier to move a heavy mass.
But I'm curious as to what led you to implement the counter weight to the Hadron.

Thanks Dave3d for the compliment. A2, I found out right away there was not enough detent torque in my Nema 17's to support the heavy x-axis that the hadron has. When powered the motors didn't have a problem, but unpowered, the carriage would crash to the bed. Even with 500g to counter the carriage, it still fell. Now I don't worry and let a long print finish without checking. You can also theoretically use lesser torque motors since the carriage is balanced like you said with your CMM.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/26/2014 12:27AM by runninfarmer.

I haven't ruled out a delta, is the print quality really better? Do they have any inherant issues of their own? It's an elegant design, that's for sure. If they really do have better print quality and I can manage to put one together somehow for around $700 then I'd probably go for it. I'll have to look into the deltas a little more.

The belt mod looks good, I might go that route if I get an ordbot and I have trouble with the wobble. Looks like I can put one together for about $560 exluding the extruder, which is pretty attractive to get started. I imagien I could buy the printed parts for an extruder from someone on these forums.

Dave3d, how is the Z wobble problem easily fixed?

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PrintThings wrote:
Dave3d, how is the Z wobble problem easily fixed?

I have these fitted: [www.thingiverse.com] I got the kit from ATI and they were included.
I later fitted longer trapezoidal lead screws so had to modify them to accept larger acme type nuts.

I have also fitted these: [www.thingiverse.com]



I have built two spool holders: [www.thingiverse.com] and I have recently fitted a Misumi extrusion across the top with twin bowden Wade extruders. Still work in progress but it shows how easy it is to modify the design.