Replicator - like reprap

Weird question but I'm interested in building a larger reprap that has axis like the Replicator except uses 2020 extrusions for the chassis.

Any suggestions? I'd like to be able to get larger that the standard Mendel bed size.

Thanks!
Cid

If you're looking for something to be just like you want it: build it. That's exactly what I'm doing and it's been the best learning experience I've gone though and I'm not even started on the building part yet. Months in on designing. You start really figuring out what makes a 3D printer and why certain kits are the way they are. In the end, you get a printer as good as you can make it and you know for yourself whether or not corners were cut and where.

Really looking to bypass most of the work. Already designed my own and built most of the mainstream reprap designs. I'm looking for a ultimaker/replicator XYZ design.
Closer to replicator design.

Cid

Check out Ingentis, Goopyplastics T-slot Tantillus or Eustathios which all use the Ultimaker style gantry system. They are all larger variations and deviations of Tantillus and some use Cables, some use belts.

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I was hoping for a 3d printer with the ability to mount a direct drive extruder instead of bowden style. The XY should be decoupled from the Z. Optimally would use a Z gantry like Replicator with single leadscrew instead of using two leadscrews like the ones suggested already.
Ill probably end up having to design it, but hope i dont need to redesign the wheel.
Any ideas?

Quick mockup of what im searching for. XY arent shown.

what about [www.thingiverse.com], its 1515 though..

check out my first, overly built, ultimaker style printer, I called Mitus. It is built on a frame work of 80/20 and is beafy enough to be a cnc router, plasma etc.

youtube Mitus Prints for a collection of videos chronicling the life and evolution.

[www.youtube.com] the first moves, showing the two moving bars, no head in that video.

I found that having only 1 bearing on each bar, a 20mm VXB bar/bearing setup, gave too much head wiggle, due to bearing slop.
I should have put 2 bearings on each bar, for a total of 4 in the head.
After a few dozen hours of printing, I went conventional Cartesian.

it's on thingiverse, but would take great deal of work to complete a copy of it.

I have the Solidworks of the assembly available if you PM me.

Dave

Maybe you are interested in a printer based on core-xy. Zelogik made a very nice printer, but it is made from CNCed aluminium. You can find it in this thread: [forums.reprap.org]
I redesigned it to use printed parts, see same thread. My variant, which I called RepRap-XY, is more or less finished. I build it and it works fine. I still have to work on the documentation.
You can find the files here: [github.com]

To see it in action:

[youtu.be]

[youtu.be]

[youtu.be]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/22/2014 02:39AM by jand.

CidVilas: Tantillus, Ingentis, and the other Tantillus derivatives either use a single leadscrew or a cable drive on Z. The original Tantillus used a single threaded rod and captive nut, but I don't see why a leadscrew couldn't be substituted. There are so many T-slot designs with the bed on an independent Z that it should be possible to mix and match your desired gantry with the Z motion setup you want.

Not sure about the direct drive on XY. At the best the weight will limit your max speed, and at the worst you'll give up a significant amount of your XY usable area to accommodate the extruder.

Progress:
So i found a Z axis that i liked on thingiverse: [www.thingiverse.com]

Although it looks like the design uses CoreXY, the design didnt use the same parts i had. My first Reprap was a Sells Mendel and I finally took it apart. I also modified the parts from Thingiverse to use lm8 and 8mm rods instead of lm10. Also, i made this to accept T5 or XL belts as this is what i had on hand as well. Still needs X carriage, but this is current status. Thanks everyone for the advice.

1m x 1m x 0.5m printer
[www.youtube.com]

Ah how nice, the COREXY setup. I like that whole H-bot design!

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think hbot and corexy are two separate designs for XY. Hbot had two points of contact and one belt while corexy has four points of contact and two belts. Corexy is more stable and is less likely to twist when driving x and y.

Cid

Better explanation of the differences:
[joshuavasquez.com]

-Cid

CoreXY all the way. But that 1m printer.. so that's what my original plan would have looked like [for size]. Yeah, definitely didn't need that kind of mass.

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

Quote
CidVilas
Better explanation of the differences:
[joshuavasquez.com]

-Cid

Hey Cid, thanks for this enlightening explanation.

I am currently designing a larger Tantillus, but now I'm starting to doubt... Should I implement CoreXY, or go on with the Tantillus. I'm curious if you can tell me what you think of the Tantillus X-Y design?

I'm a newbie at this so take everything I say with a grain of salt:
When I started I was looking for an XY design like the replicator too because I didn't like the moving print bed, but didn't find anything good. Apparently the CoreXY design is superior to the HBot design because it allows for lower build tolerances. Apparently spectra lines are cheaper and just as good as belts and might even have less backlash. But you'll have a bit more hassle installing and tensioning them and will have to re-tension them about 3 times until they become stable.

Hi Marinus, I also started with a tantillus design, but stoped after a few tests. You can only move it when the tension on the wires is good and equal on both sides. The axis rotate so you have to use bushings which either bind or are sloppy in my opinion. In all i found it too fiddly.

I did build a core-xy system and am very happy with it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/29/2014 05:03AM by jand.

The Tant. seems like it would have to be built with tighter tolerances than the CoreXY. I tried running things in my head and CoreXY seems a lot simpler to keep stable and tuned, maybe even easier to build. I thought Tantillus was great, but every time I look for something better, CoreXY takes lead. You can build it slow, heavy duty direct; or you could build it fast, light, bowden. I see advantages for both under CoreXY.

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus