Aluminium Gears for Extruder: anyone?

Hi,
I'm looking for som aluminum, our other material . not printed and precise - gears for my Gregs Extruder
this one:


where can I found some?
thanks

Personally I would go with a purchased geared stepper motor they sell these in Nema 17 in many different ratios and there are some extruder bodies on thingaverse that use them. If you want to do it differently and a little lighter I would suggest printing out timing pulleys and using a small timing belt.

Thanks
the idea was not to use printed parts. I would like more precise parts.
Can you point me the the NEMA 17 geared stepper motors that work best for a printer?

ya, I would like to know where the geared nema 17's are too pleeeezzze......

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Bill Clark
ya, I would like to know where the geared nema 17's are too pleeeezzze......

[www.anaheimautomation.com] but i am sure thear are more places out thear

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/03/2014 11:13PM by cnc dick.

thanks Dick.
Macsoft, [sdp-si.com] should have what you need. I like the belt idea, quite, no backlash. If you use sdp's belt calculator its easy to figure out what you need

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macsoft
Thanks
the idea was not to use printed parts. I would like more precise parts.
Can you point me the the NEMA 17 geared stepper motors that work best for a printer?

how much more precision do you think you'll get from some aluminium gears ? have you looked at a closed Gt2 belt and a pair of pulleys instead?

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I have the equipment (CNC Beast) to cut wades gears from Aluminium, as a one off i wouldnt expect them to be cheap, as a batch would make more sense for resale, but i cant afford to invest in them for a one off.

In all honesty, id probably call them a Wades equivalent as there may (not definately) be some slight change to the teeth profile, id have to investigate some.

I would also ask the same quyestion above in regards to why not use a geared stepper, although do I answer my own question having seen reports of these failing (pgl35 is it?), a chunky wades certainly wouldnt.

Interesting line of topic i think for refinement of what is a great part to begin with. But then have i just spoken rubbish given another alternative that is out there now for probably same cost or less of a ali wades gear.

Mutley

These are metal gear but the size is different. [www.reprapsource.com]

those gears are for [reprap.org] which works well. but not what was wanted I suspect.

I found some sites with the geared NEMA 17 too.
Now.. what ratio would work best for a reprap?

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macsoft
I found some sites with the geared NEMA 17 too.
Now.. what ratio would work best for a reprap?

Depends on your needs and desires. People work with unchanged ratio 1:1 [myself] and other people work with 100:1 geared. Choose your choice. I've never had a torque problem with 1:1. In fact, thinking about it, why do people use gears? I don't know why. Do people have weak motors? But then they are buying new motors, so why geared?

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

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MrDoctorDIV

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macsoft
I found some sites with the geared NEMA 17 too.
Now.. what ratio would work best for a reprap?

Depends on your needs and desires. People work with unchanged ratio 1:1 [myself] and other people work with 100:1 geared. Choose your choice. I've never had a torque problem with 1:1. In fact, thinking about it, why do people use gears? I don't know why. Do people have weak motors? But then they are buying new motors, so why geared?

1:1i ok for 1.75mm filament, for 3mm you need quite a bit more,

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Ooohh, yeah, that makes sense. Totally slipped my mind that 3 mil even existed. Thanks.

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

well that is another good discussion i'm interested too: are there big advatanges of 1.75mm fillament over 3mm?

Less friction, smaller required parts, more accuracy at the price of nothing [less filament per step]. For direct drive anyways, bowden practically requires 3mm, namely for materials that aren't stiff, to keep things in reasonable error constraints.
It's a RepRap long debate at the difference. In my personal opinion, like my much older father hangs on to old car habits that don't apply to modern vehicles [driving straight off a cold start, modern oil distribution makes this an ok thing to do now days] I think people hang on to 3mm because of old traditions, when it was cheaper and more accessible. But they are the same, with manufactures that price reasonably, price now. I'm all for free increased accuracy [free because I chose it before obtaining printer].

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

If you're buying new hardware, again in my opinion, it would be worth the change, but if you are going to change hardware simply to change filament diameter, I'm not so sure that's worth it.

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

Thanks. The idea is to build a easly removable an sturdy extruder, i can swap between my Prusa printer, and the hardware of my CNC Mill.
I'm converting the Mill in 2 stages:
- STAGE 1: First i want it to work both with the current electronics for Milling, and when I connect RAMPS to it and hook up the extruder: a 3d printer. My RAMPS project box as an 37 printer type pin connector where all the connections are routed to the hardware an electronics outside. (well..the power cables go tru a different connector.. printer type connector has not enough amperage)

- STAGE 2: Then I will substitute the old electronics all toghether ,and use RAMPS for Milling too.

Since I use Milling a lot, I can't keep it offline long enough to go to stage 2 right away.
Since my CNC Milling machine is a table top one, I only hace a 5cm travel course on the Z axis, So I will still need the Prusa hardware to print higher.

But so, I want a sturdy reliable extruder I can swap fast and be precise. And printed gears just dont seam that precise or sturdy to me.

I considered converting my CNC, and quickly came to the conclussion that it is not a good idea.
Being as you use your mill allot, down time is important. Well, prints can take MANY hours more
then cutting. Not only that, keeping things clean when printing... Dust get everywhere, even with
a proper vacuum setup.

Pros:
Single machine for multiple uses

Cons:
Speed - Slow 3d printing
Cleanliness - Dust control
Time - Can do one or the other (CNC/Print)
Table - Consider the CNC waste board and a heated glass bed
Setup - Every time you change components, your recalibrating
List goes on....

I desided its just better to have two machines, in two seperate rooms.
Can use both at the same time, and don't have to worry about the cons.
Initial cost is more, but quickly makes up for it. Just my thoughts...

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Custom all metal CoreXY
- Duet 2 Wifi w/ PanelDue 7i
- 330mm x 360mm x 500mm
- 750w Silicon heater

Custom Mendel90
(Backup printer - Old reliable!) - Sold

It is up to you but I wouldn't change the electronics slic3r and kisslicer under the printer settings have a set up for Mach 3 or EMC. The temperature controllers for the hot end and bed would have to be standalone you set temps to zero in the slicer. You would need another stepper driver for the extruder which will be the a axis with Mach 3 and two standalone temperature controllers and you just open up the gcode just like your router in Mach 3 or EMC you have to wait for the temps to come up for hot bed and hot end is a picture of my large machine with the standalone temp controlers

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/04/2014 05:10PM by cnc dick.

How nice rig Dick!

The idea on having RAMPS control the machine as a MILL too, is simplicity. You don't need no stand alone controllers. When I boot up the RAMPS I can choose if i'll control it as a Mill or as a Printer, and if uses settings set for each machine.
I'm at ease with Arduino programming (i do prefer PICAXE) so the firmware part won't be much of a problem.
On the software part, i think i can even use a normal slicer software and do the conversion on the firmware itself. I'll do some trial and errors on that.

Currentlly my Mill as some old electronics that can only connect thru a parallel port.. I have to have an old port with parallel port to run Mach 3 on it... it I could do everything by USB and some slicer software, I would be an happy man. the only problem is the Z axys limitation.. and of course the print will be slower than my Prusa.
But i had my 3d printer stopped for 2 years, and now everything on it is not working right.. the Z axis freezes up, the hotend clogs up..
The ideal thing would be to build a new printer with an aluminum frame, but I have no time nor the capital to do that right now.

Any more problems I should look out for?

Curtesy of Warner Berry and the Berrybot

[www.omc-stepperonline.com]

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garyhlucas
Curtesy of Warner Berry and the Berrybot

[www.omc-stepperonline.com]

But are the gears all full metal? If there's any plastics inside you should never buy it.

is 5:1 ratio enough? what is the normal gear ratio for a Wade's extruder for example?
thanks