Making 3d printer attachment on shapeoko2 cnc machine .

Hi, I own a Printrbot simple metal and wanted to get into cnc machining too, so I picked up a shapeoko 2 cnc machine at inventables.com! The thought hit me to make a easily attachable extruder mount so I could 3d print things with my shapeoko (printrbot build area not big at all, maybe even a laser cutter ). I haven't gotten my shapeoko 2 in the mail yet so I don't know for sure how it works. I am thinking since it uses geode I could easily use repetier for the cnc machine as well, and somehow make a separate printer config and change the gcode for certain functions like turning on the extruder, or the fan since the gcode to turn on a extruder is different than a 3d printer? Would it be possible for me to just keep the existing grblshield on the cnc's arduino and just somehow change the gcode commands to match that of the cnc machines? or is what I am thinking of not possible? My end goal is to just disconnect the knock off dremel power cable with the extruder cable (and power the fan if it doesn't have a fan connection by a battery and a switch), or connect the two to a switch and be able to just remove dremel, slide in the 3d printer attachment (extruder, with thermistor, and fan) and just flip the switch for the dremels power to be off and the 3d printers side on?). I am trying to avoid having to unplug the stepper motors from the cnc grblshield to a RAMPS control board I have, and somehow rig it so i can just easily interchange them? Sorry for the long post ! Maybe I could split all the stepper motor connecter so I have two connectors that go to the same motor, have it hooked to both and just power up the one I want to use and plug that boards usb into my computer and use repetier!

Biggest problem is the GRBL electronics doesn't have another driver
to drive the extruder on your filament squirter.
If you want to switch electronics to a four / five driver system yo can do it
but
height of print would be very limited perhaps 50mm

Hey you have a year just building and setting up your router
after that think about mods.

I bought a longer z axis rod to replace the default one when it comes in the mail, I am also very familiar with the amount of time it takes to setup a machine like this (built a printrbot simple metal and prusa I3), I just wanted to gauge if this was a possible mod

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/03/2014 02:33PM by caleb12134.

It's possible as discussed on the Shapeoko wiki: [www.shapeoko.com]

But you can't use the gShield, since as noted it doesn't have a stepper to spare for the extruder, and it's not really viable to use an Arduino, since there isn't any suitable control software.

I've been looking into this, and pretty much have a conversion done: [www.shapeoko.com]

but have decided I'd prefer to set up and test a ``real'' 3D printer first, so I'll have a point of comparison. Picked up an Ordbot, but trying to puzzle out the connectors in question and waiting on a heated bed to arrive.

Longer z axis rod does diddly.
Z axis maker slide only so long
Actually will stick out the bottom longer!

X axis gantry only so far up!

What's next, before you do your build, Water jet attachment?

Quote
caleb12134
I bought a longer z axis rod to replace the default one when it comes in the mail, I am also very familiar with the amount of time it takes to setup a machine like this (built a printrbot simple metal and prusa I3), I just wanted to gauge if this was a possible mod

If you move the extruder out from the gantry, you should then be able to take advantage of more of the Z-axis movement range, even if it's extended. Realized that after I bolted the plate for my extruder to my Z-axis:

[www.shapeoko.com]

and have since used longer bolts and spacers to attach it.

I was thinking about a light saber attachment cozmicray...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/06/2014 07:45PM by caleb12134.

Hey , the gantry? is that the thing that holds the dremel? is there a picture that labels all parts? so I can be up with terminology ?

to WillAdams

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/06/2014 11:05PM by caleb12134.

Also cozmicray, how does the longer z-axis do "diddly" if I am buying longer maker slide for it???

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/06/2014 11:07PM by caleb12134.

A gantry is a term used in industry to describe a mechanism, many times a crane or such, that moves across an axis. In this case it's the X axis that is moving not only + or - in the X position but also the entire gantry moving in the Y position. It's a common term used in CNC cutting. The Shapeoko is a router and as such (as you've found) the limitations are the Z travel. Those sorts of routers, cutters, etc are used for 2D or 2.5D operations with minimal manipulation in Z mostly for tool height, pockets, contours and such. A printer is more like a 3 axis mill so taking bits from Reprap, Shapeoko and DIY milling machines may provide the best solution for a combination machine. With a Makerslide on the Z it looks like you are on the right path but the control is probably going to be more like a printer or mill than a Shapeoko. Rather than adapting the printer to the router electronically I would adapt the router to the printer. In that way the router in that mode would be basically a printer with a limited Z ( make it a mill with more Z) than it would be Shapeoko. Hardware wise it would look like a taller Shapeoko but control wise it's a Reprap or mill where the Z is limited to route or cut.

So basically you are saying, that adding longer makerslide, and z threaded rod would work?

To gain Z-axis height, the side pillars that support the Y-axis gantry would need to be increased in length.

Why would I need to buy longer y axis maker slide to gain height on z axis? Wouldn't I just buy longer z maker slide and a longer ACME threaded rod?

The clearance under the Y'axis gantry is the maximum Z-axis build height.

To increase build height you need to raise the nozzle to just below the Y-axis gantry lowest point, and to increase the "over-all" Z-axis build height you need to lengthen the Y-axis side pillars, which then necessitates a new longer Z-axis stage.

Hmm, the dremel slides on the z axis maker slide which is moved by a stepper motor with acme threaded rod (tell me if I am wrong ). I am sorry if this seems simple lol, I just don't see what you are talking about. I am looking at pictures of the shapeoko2 and I see a z axis stepper motor, acme threaded rod, and the dremel. I see no reason why I would need to lengthen the y axis side pillars if I could just buy the longer maker slide, and longer M8 threaded rod?

The assembly instructions at docs.shapeoko.com label things --- I don't think there's a single image which labels everything, but that's a good idea. I'll have to look into making one up.

Quote
caleb12134
Hmm, the dremel slides on the z axis maker slide which is moved by a stepper motor with acme threaded rod (tell me if I am wrong ). I am sorry if this seems simple lol, I just don't see what you are talking about. I am looking at pictures of the shapeoko2 and I see a z axis stepper motor, acme threaded rod, and the dremel. I see no reason why I would need to lengthen the y axis side pillars if I could just buy the longer maker slide, and longer M8 threaded rod?

Because the gantry moves and the print bed is stationary (spoil board in CNC router parlance) your Z height will be limited to the distance from the bottom of the gantry to the print bed. Otherwise if you try to print above that the movement of the gantry will knock the print off the platform.

Ahh I see now, sorry about that haha. Is there a way to fix it? Like any recommended replacement part that would eliminate that issue? Thank you

As I noted, my solution was to move the extrude out from the gantry --- that way I can print parts up to as wide as the distance from the extruder head to the gantry.