What do you guys think about these two hot ends? How do they compare to each other, as well as to, say a J-head? I use 1.75mm PLA on a Kossel Mini.

v6 is better if you plan to print with PLA
PLA will obstruct your v5 hotend frecuently (it is what I have read on spanish reprap forums)

I have v5 and I have never printted using PLA, I only use ABS. I used experimental laywood ABS and hotend was clogged two times I couldn't print on wood material successfully.


J-Head doesn't need a fan, so there are no air flow around the nozzle, something that make warping appears, or maybe you can get some crack on thin layers.
I burnt a J-head hotend when mounting my 3DPrinter because it goes to 400ºC (RAMPS failed!). J-head max recommended hotend temperature is 250ºC. If you use a full metal hotend you can reach 400ºC to remove ABS obstruction on the hotend; it works!!.

Have a look at richrap's review of hotends in issue3 of the RepRap magazine. I think he recommends the j_head for PLA and nylon and for delta machines due to it being lighter than a metal one.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

Quote
lepes
PLA will obstruct your v5 hotend frecuently

that not right, I print with both the v5 and v4 with PLA at 200C no problems at all, you leave it standing for ten minutes then you MAY get a jam.

Page 58:

"For PLA in both 3mm and 1.75 for a
Cartesian based printer the E3D V4.1/V5 is
without doubt my go-to hot-end of choice."

"For Bowden-fed and/or fitted to a Delta
printer again due to the light-weight design
I would go for a J-head MK5"

I had PLA jamming issues with the e3d v5 as well but this thread over at SeeMeCNC helped resolve my problems.

Basically the jamming is caused by the non-specification on the bore length of the nozzle. This length is the length of the stated nozzle diameter. Users found that it varied anywhere from .5mm to 1.5+ mm. I shorted the bore length down to about 0.5mm by using mhackney's suggestions. I don't think I'd be able to jam my v5 even if I tried at this point.

If you attempt to do the same, make sure you use a sharp angle drill bit if you have the 3mm version. Otherwise you might end up breaking through the nozzle. On the 1.75mm version I believe you can use a normal angle drill bit.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/08/2014 07:13PM by Marty56.

Everything Marty said is correct. Also v6 nozzles are backwards compatible with v5 hotends if you don't want to drill.

I've used both the v5 and v6, and honestly I have the same issues with both, but the v6 most definitely prints superior to the v5, and with noticibly less friction.
I have a certain filament type [MatterHackers Pro PLA] that's always given me jamming issues, even though it looks great and runs buttery smooth. It just holds and spreads heat too much, so it will expand higher than most.
Other than that one filament, the v6 is definitely better than v5.

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Realizer- One who realizes dreams by making them a reality either by possibility or by completion. Also creating or renewing hopes of dreams.
"keep in mind, even the best printer can not print with the best filament if the user is the problem." -Ohmarinus

So the general consensus is that the v6 is better than the v5, and can print PLA quite well?

I put a v6 into a Kossel mini and it printed PLA fine so I would say yes.

I have both the V5 and V6. Both had issues with PLA. The heat break was not polished decent so I fixed that. Still jammed with PLA. Heat conduction from the aluminum heater block to the brass nozzle was poor which resulted in a 50C temperature difference from the heater block temp to the nozzle temp. Fixed that by making a copper heater block. Now the temp difference is about 15C and I no longer jam with PLA. I have successfully printed the Vend gumball machine after this mod. V6 is not the end all for PLA jamming. Just search the E3D forum.