Hey Guys, I purchase a couple of V6 hotends from E3D to play with and try out. After running these little beauties on two of my printers I have to say great job to the Sanjay and the other folks at E3D for a job well done! Being a machinist I carefully looked at the surface finish of the parts and was very impressed, this is a very well machined hotend! With over 400 print hours on them printing every material available the V6 has worked flawlessly. As you probably guessed I could not just leave it alone and had to Berryify it just a little. The first mod was to wrap the heater block in a blanket. Insulating the heater block helps to make layers more consistent. McMaster Carr [www.mcmaster.com] I fold the 1” strip over on itself and wrap it around and fasten it with a nylon zip tie. The only other thing was to install two small thin strips of felt about 3/16 x 1” on the insides of the blue plastic fan shroud where it meets the aluminum barrel. This helped quiet down a small vibration from the fan that developed in both of them after running them for a while.

Thanks for a great product Guys!!

Werner

Nice mods to the V6. Glad to hear from you again Werner....its been a long time. What's new with you and the Berrybot 3D?

Thanks Sim, I had to take a break to get a few things done but have been printing and building like crazy! I have built myself a new BerryBot3D that is super nice using linear bearings and a bunch of small improvements. I played around with some Mini Rail GST guide from PBC to see how they would work but I could not get the level of precision I was looking for (see pic). I have also been playing with a bunch of the new filaments like XT, bronze and flexible material. The advancements we will see in the next few years are going to be awesome! I have been using the Full Graphics LCD and ran into a problem with the end effector making extremely short pauses when printing fast. I have the Marlin Ultralcd.ccp - lcd_status_update_delay = 200 Changing this to 200 from 10 nearly eliminated the problem except when printing fast. Any ideas? Sorry for getting of topic but just thinking out loud. At the moment I am printing a bunch of gears for a clock.

Have a great day!
Werner

That print precision is incredible.

As for the pauses in the print, here's some ideas. Perhaps find a way to reduce the cpu load on your arduino (think more efficient firmware (teacup and others) or disabling the screen) or, upgrade hardware (Arduino Due comes to mind, it has a 32 bit ARM cpu whereas the arduino has an 8 bit proccessor), or slow the print speed a bit.

Speaking of printing a clock, mine ticks! (image attached) Are you making the same one?

Same one! The Guy that designed it did an awesome job with it. [www.thingiverse.com] Thanks for the suggestions!! These are things to think about. I really like the Rambo board that I am using! I also like the LCD but that combination along with the math for delta moves seems to be pushing it. I don’t know why it bugs me I not even like to print fast 75+.

Werner

Quote
BerryBot3D
I also like the LCD but that combination along with the math for delta moves seems to be pushing it.

This is a known issue with 8-bit boards and the GLCD drivers doing Delta math. Repetier firmware is a little better optimized than Marlin in the GLCD code, but the only other workaround people have used is to fall back to 1/8 micro-stepping or lower your segments/second. My Megatronics 2.0 board with Repetier firmware would start to pause randomly at anything above 80mm/sec with the GLCD drivers installed.

Quite a few people on the Google Deltabot forum are running 32-bit controllers now. I'm partial to Smoothieware, on an Azteeg X5 Mini ($109 US). Smoothieboard hardware (more money) has a lot more features like a built-in web server), and is also supposedly useful in the CNC arena.....

Werner....So you're using a Rambo board now? I thought you were running an Azteeq X5 Mini on the original Berrybot delta. Am I mistaken?

Hey TechnicalNoob I am not done but I just couldn’t wait to see if it would tick-tock. To my amazement it runs! I need to adjust the weight and make a correct fly wheel. I did not see where he says to use 90% infill and I used 25% But it still works. Wahooo…. I will post some pics when I get the front and hands printed.
Have a great day!
Werner

[www.dropbox.com]

@TheTechnicalNoob

do you have the link to the clock?

berry bot, this may or may not help with your micro pauses at high speed

[www.thingiverse.com]

[forums.reprap.org]

'
usually a fair argument is made for teacup firmware as well, i cant argue that that may be a good bet as well, although i don't think there is a delta version that works yet and converts kinematic moves.
the above links reduces the time for sqrt root calculation by marlin firmware. since this is several versions old, you best bet may to include
this at the top of planner.ccp
and replace all sqrroot with SqrtAprox


marlin still has some bugs in it for delta , so repetier host is another option, and i tell you it runs a lot faster with deltas out of box! (don't do sqrroot optimizations on repetier host firmware as it throws off the timing and shakes bolts loose!

float SqrtAprox(float number) {//low in fat
unsigned long i;
float x, y;
y = number;
i = * ( long * ) &y;
i = 0x5f375a86 - ( i >> 1 );
y = * ( float * ) &i;
return number * y;
}

I printed mine at 100% infill so it runs a tad slow. Have you had the gears drag on the flywheel? Mine do. I'll print a small washer to fix that.
Have a good day too!

EDIT: Sorry ekaggrat, I didn't see your reply before. Here's the link to the clock: www.thingiverse.com/thing:328569

P.S. I have a hand built wooden clock I did a while back, I'm considering making a 3d printable version at some stage (I'll attach some pictures). Feel free to use them as inspiration (btw if someone ever does and gets stuck on anything feel free to PM me).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2014 05:02AM by TheTechnicalNoob.

Werner,
Is your printed extruder availible for download? I purchased a nema 11 geared stepper but having a hard time finding printable extruder components for nema 11.
Thanks,
Greg

Hi James, Please call Werner, Thanks for the great info! I would like to play with Repiter for firmware and may try that next. Any idea how much work it is to get it working for a delta and full graphic LCD?
Hi Noob, no dragging yet. Great job on the wood clock, very cool. It looks like it should be printable? Thanks for sharing the pics.
Hi Greg, send me a pm with your email I would be happy to email my bearing arm STL!

Werner

Werner you can find a rambo version ready to go for delta except you machines dimensions, here [github.com] you will want to change settings in configuration.h.

these displays are setup by default for repetier host, and it includes u8glib_ex.h library. i can only assume it is for RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller which is 11. there may be some pin out differences, but from what i gather it has the pins as other lcd modules. use your best double check method. verify current settings and stepper values are consistent, as well as limit switches, from there testing should be somewhat fun!

0 = no display
1 = Manual definition of display and keys parameter in uiconfig.h

The following settings override uiconfig.h!
2 = Smartcontroller from reprapdiscount on a RAMPS or RUMBA board
3 = Adafruit RGB controller
4 = Foltyn 3DMaster with display attached
5 = ViKi LCD - Check pin configuration in ui.h for feature controller 5!!! sd card disabled by default!
6 = ReprapWorld Keypad / LCD, predefined pins for Megatronics v2.0 and RAMPS 1.4. Please check if you have used the defined pin layout in ui.h.
7 = RADDS Extension Port
8 = PiBot Display/Controller extension with 20x4 character display
9 = PiBot Display/Controller extension with 16x2 character display
10 = Gadgets3D shield on RAMPS 1.4, see [reprap.org]
11 = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller
12 = FELIXPrinters Controller
13 = SeeMeCNC Display on Rambo (ORION)

#define FEATURE_CONTROLLER 11

Hey James thanks a bunch Buddy! This is great! Things never seem to go that easy for me on the programming side but I am going to give it a try! I wanted to thank you for something else James! You had written some info on the benefits of utilizing PID for bed temp. If you remember I have a high volt 110v heated bed that work super-fast awesome but I was using Bang-bang. I was ok with the larger fluctuations in target temps because I didn't know any better. But after reading your articles showing the possible benefits of using PID for more uniform temp/ layers I decided to start messing with it! OMG now it if freak-in unbelievable. I am not kidding I can’t even sleep at night because I am so excited about it! Thanks for that!
I finished my clock today. It turned out really cool. Here are a few pics and video link. The green filament was some of my worst filament that I just wanted to use up on something. The black and white filament is Zeni Kinetics that is very nice material and very accurate! At only 30 buck for 2.2lbs and free shipping over 50 bucks it is hard to beat!! Oooo and the best part it’s made in the USA!! I printed everything at 210/60 and 50+ at .2 layer. All the models where great with the exception of the clock face background. I think that Christoph may have printed this on a raft? I used Cura for the project and just used the cutoff feature on this part to chop off the first layer. The author Christoph Laimer did an amazing job with this project it figures he is a Swiss!.
[www.youtube.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]

Werner’s clock:
[www.dropbox.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/28/2014 01:04AM by BerryBot3D.

Quote
BerryBot3D
Insulating the heater block helps to make layers more consistent.

Hi, could you explain how the layers are more consistent? I'm also wondering if the heater block could be wrapped with self-adhering silicone tape as nophead does for the J-head in his Mendel90 kit?

Hi Gary, for me it was most notable when I was printing larger parts and at faster
speeds. I will often have a desk fan blowing into the print area which was causing
my nozzle to cool down every time it would pass directly in front of the fan.
By adding the insulation around the hot end block I am able to keep very consistent
temperatures. This also helps reduce the amount of current needed. I did not have
good luck with the silicone tape especially at higher temperatures. It was also much
more work to put on and take off. The way I do it now it takes less than 30
seconds to put on or take off and works great.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/28/2014 11:32PM by BerryBot3D.

That looks fantastic Werner, congrats! I really like the colors you chose. An inspiration, thank you

Thank you Werner, that's good advice. Thank you .. And nice clock!

Hey, Mr Werner, I'm doing some optimization on some code atm. Supposedly, the thing slowing down your segments per seconds is the square root operation. Here jamesdanielv has figured out a way to make the sqrt function 3 times faster, while being 3.5% accurate. In marlin_main.cpp at about line 4000, there's the function calculate_delta. Its where the delta stuffs is calculated in which you could put in the SqrtApprox function in place of the sqrt function.. I haven't tested if it actually goes much faster, but there you go

Anyhow, its probably a bit of an overkill doing so much math on a 8bit micro controller.