@ggherbaz

I have a sneaking suspicion that if you went with a delta printer your 36 hour print might get highly reduced. However the tweaking would have to begin all over with a delta vs the cdc printer you have. Might be worth thinking about.

Another thing that I thought about is using dual hot ends on a printer. We can use identical hot ends in parallel today, but it might be very practical to use a ~.8mm nozzle for infill and a .3-.4mm nozzle for the shell. The problem as I see it though is that current slicing software does not compensate for this. Imagine going .1mm layers for the shell and .5mm layers for the infill. That would ensure high resolution and increase the speed dramatically. Anything out there that can do that? well short of editing the code myself?

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Modicum V1 sold on e-bay user jaguarking11

jaguarking11,

Yes, I have thought of a delta printer for a while now, I have everything needed to build it, so I might do it.

My printer have dual extruders, and I have tried some prints with it but so far I haven't got any good results, but I will keep trying untill I can perfect it. The main problem is the ooze from the standing nozzle, yes a cleaning tower some times does the job, but some times my built plate don't have any space left for it.

Nice prints, and I really like the quartz idea. I'm curious as to why regular glass is out of the question. Although it's pretty breakable, I feel like you could get the price down to almost disposable levels.

What slicer/speeds are you using for your prints? 36 hours is a LOT of time.

Also as far as the two nozzle thing, you could mount a small servo to your carriage that would swing down and physically 'wipe' the tip...if you had a small piece of copper as the end of the arm you could even cover the orfice until needed.

SamS,

Thanks, the slicer is simplify3d the speed was 20mm/sec. Outer most perimeter at 50% speed and inner perimeter at 80% 0.1mm layer and 90% infill.

I have tried several times to test this kind of prints at higher speeds but customer will reject them. This are functional parts and I had find out that at faster speeds inter layer bonding is not as good as with slow printing???? Don't know why.

Regular glass will shattered with the first thermal shock and impurity level is to high, borosilicate is a cheaper alternative but then again the level of impurities is high but worth testing, only fused silica (synthetic quartz) is 99% pure silica .

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ggherbaz
SamS,

I have tried several times to test this kind of prints at higher speeds but customer will reject them. This are functional parts and I had find out that at faster speeds inter layer bonding is not as good as with slow printing???? Don't know why.

Regular glass will shattered with the first thermal shock and impurity level is to high, borosilicate is a cheaper alternative but then again the level of impurities is high but worth testing, only fused silica (synthetic quartz) is 99% pure silica .

For the speed and layer separation. Try upping the hot end temperature and insulating the heating block. I found that with the larger nozzle I needed to up the temperature quite a bit to achieve good layer adhesion.

I disagree about regular glass, the thermal shock may not be as bad we believe it to be. I could be wrong.

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Modicum V1 sold on e-bay user jaguarking11

jaguarking11,

I use a 0.3 nozzle, i will try insulate the heater block with a metal sheet (it got already the fiberglass and kapton insulation) .

Once i get the metal parts of my hot end, I can experiment with every possible barrels from glass to quartz, the main thing for me is the level of impurities in cheaper materials, filament might not flow as smooth as it needs to if encountered with impurities that grab to it?

I have already sent my designs to 3 manufacturers for quoting, one due on Friday.

the .3mm nozzle explains the problem to me. back pressure must be high with that nozzle.

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Modicum V1 sold on e-bay user jaguarking11

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jaguarking11
the .3mm nozzle explains the problem to me. back pressure must be high with that nozzle.

I'm actually planning to start using a 0.6mm nozzle! Not sure how well it works with 1.75mm PLA, but I guess we'll see

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I would love to go back my 0.5 nozzle, but most of my customers parts require smaller nozzles(have tried to mimic a 0.3 with a 0.5 but doesn't work to good), but one thing is for sure "will never use the 0.2 one" WHAT A PAIN.

I was able to print in .1mm layers with a 1.54mm nozzle. I suspect that is enough. The only time a larger nozzle becomes a problem is when you are printing walls thinner than the nozzle diameter. Although sometimes it can be done.

For me I will be boring one of my nozzles to ~.8mm or maybe even 1mm for fast prints. I may have to get a brass or copper heater block to ensure proper thermal mass. The alu block cannot store enough heat in it for high speeds and large extrusions.

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Modicum V1 sold on e-bay user jaguarking11

jaguarking11,

That's one of the reason why my design will use brass and dual heater cartridge, aluminum doesn't store heat at all.