Suggestions for heated bed adhesive

My borosillicate glass chipped while cooling down after printing with ABS so I recently flipped the glass and started printing ABS on Kapton which is working great and should save my glass from chipping ever again. My problem now is the Kapton style bed heater has lost most of it's adhesion so I'm looking to find something similar to the 3M adhesion glue it originally came with.

The closest thing I have found on google is some 700F silicone but I'm not real sure how thermally conductive it would be, plus it's a dull orange color so it will likely look like crap.


Appreciate any input!

On my borosillicate glass I use a layer of Kapton tape and a layer of slurry (abs mixed with Acetone)
Haven't had a problem since I discovered slurry (well excluding the fact I forgot to readjust the heat bed after a rebuild)

I used to use the same, kapton tape on 6mm glass with ABS juice. Bed at 110 deg C.
However, I have just changed to an aluminium bed. No glass, but still with kapton tape and juice. It just works.

I used to have this problem but since I started using cold packs for injuries to rapid cool my bed and parts they pop off on their own, I found the rapid change of temp makes them come loose, I used to pry and twist parts to get them off after they had cooled down on their own = bad idea.

Thanks guys but the Kapton alone has been working for print adhesion, my issue was getting the Kapton style bed heater to stick to the glass. I ended up using some Artic Alumina but on another forum a great suggestion was to use 3M 467MP available here:

[www.ebay.com]

I ended up going with the Artic Alumina simply because I had it here and the 3M 467MP is quite expensive.

Quote
lunarkingdom
I used to have this problem but since I started using cold packs for injuries to rapid cool my bed and parts they pop off on their own, I found the rapid change of temp makes them come loose, I used to pry and twist parts to get them off after they had cooled down on their own = bad idea.

I agree pulling on the part is a bad idea but this is not how mine cracked. The print was done overnight and it cooled completely and was 100% free from the bed requiring no force at all to pick the part up. IMO it's probably the difference between cheap borosillicate glass and higher quality stuff since my old Da Vinci 1.0 (piece of crap for most part) heated bed still works great even after almost a year of continuous use with ABS directly on the bed.