Can MKS 1.2 base board take 24v?

can MKS v1.0 base control board take 24v input? how do i find out if mks v1.2 can do the same? in the same plugs as 12v? there are no jumpers to change?

i just want 24v on the heatbed.

wiki page for the board:
[reprap.org]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2015 09:27PM by skynetprinter.

from the page you linked to

A v1.0 board with the PowerIn clearly marked 12-24 volts



But looking at the circuit diagram. this will also put 24v were ever there is 12v now, so hot ends, fans, stepper drivers and heated bed.

You probbly best to do the ramps trick.

Connect the postive of your BED to the 24volt and the -ve to the board connector. The MOSFET controll the -ve leg so will work like normal. From the diagram looks like the bed led will not work. Also you should put a fuse in line on the 24 volt side

Thanks for the info.

So to recap, i keep the board wired the same, then i fix in the 24v GND wire along side the 12v GND input on the board, and i change the heatbed input to 24V with a fuse on it.

Will a motorbike fuse be OK? What amperage should the fuse be rated for?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2015 07:56AM by skynetprinter.

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skynetprinter
So to recap, i keep the board wired the same, then i fix in the 24v GND wire along side the 12v GND input on the board,

Yes, tie the two grounds together. They'll share the same ground plane.

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and i change the heatbed input to 24V with a fuse on it.

Yep.

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Will a motorbike fuse be OK? What amperage should the fuse be rated for?

Any type of blade-style fuse will be fine if that's what you mean by "motorbike fuse". It should be rated for the maximum amount of current your board will use, plus a bit more. Measure the resistance of your board when it's wired for 24v operation. Divide 24V by that resistance and you'll get it's current draw. Most 200x200mm beds will draw 10-12 amps at 12 volts, and 5-6 volts at 24 volts...doubling the voltage halves the current in order to keep the same overall power output. So something like a 7.5 amp fuse should work unless your bed is out of spec.

Thanks for the help. i installed it and it is going about 15-20 degrees higher, it stayed stuck at 93 with an aluminium bed, probably dissipating heat fast... aluminium plate that isnt super smooth = surface area of 1m^2. probably with glass i could rach 110C.

surprised that it didn't get to 100 with the alu on top of the heatbed?

The workaround is great! thanks!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/19/2015 10:55AM by skynetprinter.

It's taking 25 minutes to get to 110 degrees with insulation on top, and then when i take the insulation off it goes back to 105 degrees.

Can i put 36v onto the 24 heatbed input using the 24 and 12v lines in series?

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skynetprinter
It's taking 25 minutes to get to 110 degrees with insulation on top, and then when i take the insulation off it goes back to 105 degrees.

Can i put 36v onto the 24 heatbed input using the 24 and 12v lines in series?

See my reply in your other thread.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

thanks, to update this thread, the 24v psu has a potentiometer, it can bump up to 28v, which makes the heatbed go up to 110 in about 10 minutes with foam under and a cloth on top. with PE tape from ali express and abs juice i can get abs sticking very well. it can stay at 110 without insulation on top while printing, nice upgrade, a bit bulkier, no worries.