Hot end

I know I have a topic up right now, but I figured this was a pretty big topic. I'm trying to find a decent hot end that can handle pretty much any filament, including ninjaflex. I'm getting a pretty cheap i3, so I hope it's not like putting lipstick on a pig, but I was curious of people's opinions. I'm looking at possibly getting a e3d v6, but they are so expensive. I see there are hot ends called e3d v6 j-head on ebay for much cheaper. I'm assuming these are knock offs? Are there any name brand all metal hot ends that are good but not quite as expensive as the e3d and can handle ninjaflex? Thanks for any answers.

Last question. Promise.

IMHO, spend the extra on the E3D v6. If any part of the printer you don't want to skimp on it is the hotend. I went through 2 cheapo hotends before buying a good one, which ended up costing me more then the E3D would have, and months of frustration. there is the new E3D lite6,(which just arrived in my mailbox yesterday) which is very inexpensive for a quality hotend, just can't go above 240c.

I will be using SS heat block with brass nozzle and big aluminum block recycled from Dell pc heat sink
Not sure yet up what temperature this setup will hold
Will know when testing it in few days....hopefully

Id recomend the hexagon all metal. Good for high temp printing.
£42 including thermistor, heater, little tool kit. 12v or 24v, bowden/non bowden.
[ooznest.co.uk]

I realy like the new fixing ststem theyve got to hold the heater and thermistor.
Been using the previous design now for months with great success.
Abs, ninjaflex, taulman bridge nylon.
Particularly like that i can swap out the nozzles between 0.3mm and 0.5mm.
From high precision to larger faster prints

For ninjaflex the biggest problem is kinking in the extruder. Between the hobbed bolt and the throat of the hot end.
But ive found a modified wades which should get round that and allow me to print at quicker speeds as the kinking meant i couldnt go fastef than 20mm/s With my standard wades.

Ill be buying 2 for my next multi head printer.
Gordon

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/18/2015 11:11AM by gordonendersby.

I see the e3d lite is a really great price. Does it work with ninja flex and is there ever a reason to go past 240c? And any idea as to whether I need the 12v or 24v? Here is the printer I'm looking at: [www.3dprintersonlinestore.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/18/2015 12:54PM by fatesalign.

Ninjaflex is the same temp as abs. I used about 230c when i last printed with it.
Any higher and it seemed to ooze too much.
Even at 230 i had to prime the nozzle just before printing or it would ooze out.
And print slow. Fastest i got was 20mm/s.
Needs some cooling fan as well or it just droops away from the print head.
You cant print anything that uses support as the ninjaflex wont support itself.

I printed the treefrog at 30% infill and it came out really well and completly indestructable.

I found a plain glass mirror at about 60c to be the best bed for adhesion. No tapes, glues or hairsprays just smooth clean glass.
It sticks like a very sticky thing.
Did try on my existing kapton tape but the tape ripped of the bed with the print and i couldnt remove the tape from the print.

Gordon

Quote
gordonendersby
Ninjaflex is the same temp as abs. I used about 230c when i last printed with it.
Any higher and it seemed to ooze too much.
Even at 230 i had to prime the nozzle just before printing or it would ooze out.
And print slow. Fastest i got was 20mm/s.
Needs some cooling fan as well or it just droops away from the print head.
You cant print anything that uses support as the ninjaflex wont support itself.

I printed the treefrog at 30% infill and it came out really well and completly indestructable.

I found a plain glass mirror at about 60c to be the best bed for adhesion. No tapes, glues or hairsprays just smooth clean glass.
It sticks like a very sticky thing.
Did try on my existing kapton tape but the tape ripped of the bed with the print and i couldnt remove the tape from the print.

Gordon

I really appreciate the great reply! Are you able to tell if I need the 12v or 24v? It looks like it's 12, but I'm not sure. Here is what I'm getting: [www.3dprintersonlinestore.com]

Anyone? Like I said. I think it's 12v, but I'm not sure.

On the page you linked to scroll down to the specs. It says 12v there.

---

[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

Quote
Srek
On the page you linked to scroll down to the specs. It says 12v there.

I thought so. I just wasn't sure it was referring to that. Thank you!

I found a way to use flexible filaments with the Bulldog extruder, who also make the Hexagon hot end. It involves a replacement part. If there’s demand for it, it gives you a great new capability, so contact me.

What other experience does anyone have with the Hexagon? Do you recommend it? Is it ok for PLA, being all-metal?



Paucus

www.kikailabs.com.ar