Opinions on Sanguinolu Board

Talking to the Geeetech peoples on ebay. They say ramps 1.4 isnt the best for the acrylic i3



Any advice?

This is the printer

[:RTQ:US:1123" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">www.ebay.com]


Talked them down to 360 without the LCD2004 (im sure there will be a better one soon)

Since I'm using a cash back credit card. I am pretending this will cost me 360*.8=$288

Credit card offers are 100 cash back out of 500. so you end up paying 80 percent of what you got. ;DDD

Those two boards dont make much of a difference. Ramps is more common and with my Sanguinololu I had to use a special provided firmware from the boards producer. Life's just easier with Ramps. Kit looks ok as well but be prepared to upgrade extruder and hotend.

Sanguinolu Board only has 64 or 128 or rom... and marlin with a LCD now exceeds that (unless you make changes to reduce size)

It the cheapest board out there, no support for second extruder, and know bugs [reprap.org]

Its definatly on the way out, as far as boards go

I requested Ramps, but the Geeetech official..named Lemon....mentioned ramps commonly have burning mosfets

Which Extruder and hotend do you use?

I want to focus on wood filament printing.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2015 01:31PM by XYZM.

The MOSFET that drives the heatbed on the RAMPS gets too hot. I am adamant it is because the wrong one is usually installed. STP55NF06 instead of the STP55NF06L which is specified on the schematic. The 'L' version is fully on when it is driven with a gate voltage of 5V, whereas the non-'L' version is only just starting to turn on.
Easy enough to change if you can use a soldering iron (they are TO-220 package... not surface mount), but you have to get a suitable replacement. I have seen IRLB8743PBF suggested in these forums. I used an FDP8896 because I had one handy and it was fine. I think even the STP55NF06L specified on the schematic would be fine (but make sure it is the 'L' version!)

The other MOSFETs will also be incorrect, but that doesn't seem to cause anyone (including me) any problems that I have seen. It's just that the heatbed takes a lot of current and the I2R losses in the FET supplying it are significant.

Decided to get the GT2560 Atmega board!

Supports two extruders!

Hi all, I started off some time ago when I retired, (Time to spare and enjoy) with the 3d printing bug and started with the sanguinololu 1.3a driving a homemade everbot type printer built from scrap odments of MDF and draw runners and I found it doing all it said it could and as I progressed with my hobby I built a second home design printer again very happy with the sanguinololu and then I built yet another Prusa i3 rework printing all the ABS parts on the earlier printer, I started to explore the idea of a second extrude on this and in doing so came accross a small Eagle file for a driver board called Slum 1.0 which plug's straight onto the sanguinololu expansion pins and supports an extra stepper driver. Has any member found the same file or better still has anyone built and used this add on if so I would be verry interested in all the good and bad aspects and also how to modify the marlin firmware to drive it.