printing ABS?

Hello everyone. I've been trying to print ABS, but it just won't stick. I've got the heated bed up to 110c. I read that kapton tape works, but I don't want to wait for it to be delivered. I'm using an aluminum bed, but would A glass bed be better? Also, should I drill holes in it to fit, or should I use those clips I see a lot of people use? Or should I just put the glass on top the aluminum and clip it? I'm just not sure its smart to only screw in the heated bed and all the pressure be on it when it moves.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2015 11:27AM by fatesalign.

It doesn't make much difference what the substrate is if you're covering it with kapton tape, as long as it is flat.

There are a couple reasons people use glass. It can be removed and replaced easily, so a new print can be started as soon as one has completed. The glass with a print stuck to it can be placed in a freezer to separate the parts easily. Finally, most people's aluminum in the bed is not particularly flat- it is usually thin, extruded sheet and the glass provides the flatness needed for printing while the aluminum provides thermal conductivity to spread the heat.

Glass is fragile, not always flat- you need to find the right stuff, not thermally conductive, and relatively heavy.

That's the thing. I was thinking about not using kaptan tape. I just don't understand why it won't stick. I use the glue and 110c on an aluminum plate and 250c extrusion.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2015 01:37PM by fatesalign.

I have the same setup.
Try this. Kapton tape plus ABS juice..

My temps are 240/90.
Unless youre printing fast then 250 is too high.
Also, what kind of hot end do you have? If it has ptfe tube inside then you are at risk of deforming it and causing a log jam.

fatesalign- check your zero and leveling. The first layer needs to be squished down on the plate. Also, slowing down the first layer is good, too. How fast are you printing?

I print ABS on kapton on aluminum. No juice, no hairspray, no glue. Works great. 105C bed, 235C nozzle.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2015 02:02PM by the_digital_dentist.

Quote
the_digital_dentist
fatesalign- check your zero and leveling. The first layer needs to be squished down on the plate. Also, slowing down the first layer is good, too. How fast are you printing?

I print ABS on kapton on aluminum. No juice, no hairspray, no glue. Works great. 105C bed, 235C nozzle.

wish I knew the secret... not getting adhesion to kapton tape alone, even though I know it should... But my current bed heater wont go to 105.... PCB. That shall be my final tweak...a better heating element.

If it won't get warm enough it definitely won't be able to regulate the temperature at the limit of its range either. It's a good idea to check the actual temperature of the plate with a thermocouple, too. Thermistors that come with heaters don't always report the temperature accurately. Also, before printing, wipe the kapton with acetone. A little finger oil is enough to kill adhesion.

Glass bed with Kapton and ABS Juice, Bed temp 100, hotend 230.
No problems here. (well excluding the fact that I cant measure!)

Printing ABS on glass coated with ABS juice (no Kapton) works for me.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

What is your nozzle diameter? And the space between your nozzle and your bed?

At 30mm/s, your first line on the bed must be arround 0.25mm thick for a nozzle diameter 0.4mm, or it won't stick. And avoid wind on the deb surface. It must cool slowly.