cheap chinese 3d printers ebay

What is the best of the cheapest china printers


Impresora 3 Reprap Prusa i3 3d Printer Kit with 2 Rolls of Filament + 8GB SDCard
[www.ebay.co.uk]


Reprap Prusa i3 LCD 3d Printer Kit + Free Shipping + 2 KG Filaments+8G SD Card
[www.ebay.co.uk]


3D Printer Kit LCD Screen Reprap Prusa i3 Self-assembly Print Size 270*200*170
[www.ebay.co.uk]

That's like asking which is best, syphilis or gonorrhea? The answer depends on the form of pain and discomfort you prefer...

Cheap Chinese 3D Printers are like the plague.

Avoid at all costs!

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NFireLabs - The World First Modular 3D Printer - At An Affordable Price!

Before you decide on a cheapo kit, I suggest you read this: http://www.instructables.com/id/An-Almost-Reliable-High-Precision-3D-Printer-Son-o/

Those printers resemble the Geeetech chinese printers. There is a lot about them in the Prusa i3 section --> [forums.reprap.org]

Some may come fine, some may come with a messed up power supply(as in my case)

Just do some research. I personally think a cheapo printer isnt bad for a beginner.

Check out the Prusa i3 with aluminium case, they are stronger than the acrylic.

To answer your question, the first one will be probably the best option.

The third has metall bushings for x and y. And it has real leadscrews for z. This is my favourite.
The big print area needs longer to heat up and some report, it is difficult to bring it above 90°C ( ABS needs ~110°C )
-Olaf

BTW: They all have acrylic fronts for the y-carrier. I don´t know, if they will last long Belt tension will deform them over time.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/03/2015 04:19AM by o_lampe.

I will avoid them, last thing I need is broken perspex, my only reason behind buying a whole kit was It's all there in one.
truth is I have a graber i3 everything except Borosilicate Glass and some clamps. It's not beginner friendly sparse documentation. I had to drill the 3.5mm to 4mm, M3 was to small.
There are a number of reasons why I fell out finishing the graber i3.

Below image I had to use some L brackets to attach the hot end other problems like binding on the Y axis if the wooden LM8UU supports where tightened at all, also had to use lots of washers to tighten the hotend. Thread cutting into the peek or abs section aswell.


Rather than spend £250 on chinese printer. use what parts I already have and get a better stronger frame. I'm thinking P3Steel Prusa i3
my Graber rods are 317mm 400mm 342mm, P3Steel require 320mm 375mm 341mm, M5 threaded are 292mm need 295mm need new smooth/threaded rods.

I sacrificed 12 hp printers for these M8 400mm long 393mm to the first notch for an e-clip bearings are smooth and quiet.
12xSC8UU, 24xSK8 4xKFL08 a wooden 19mm mdf frame design in 3ds max based on a german post about a reprap from scanner / printer carriage. I dont know when I will start / finish it,


There are 2 variations of P3Steel frames on ebay, the galvanised one has less cutouts in places and an lcd frame, is one an older version, which one should I order?
What protein printed parts do I need some look different?

Galvanised

[www.ebay.co.uk]

Black

[www.ebay.co.uk]

can I use this hot end with P3Steel

As soon as you have a working printer, you can combine anything with everything.
Even if this first printer makes lousy parts on slow speed, it is a startingpoint.
I´d give the graber i3 a second chance. Try to adapt the binding y-axis with washers or elastic shims to make it work.

Or buy a cheap acrylic rework frame and transplant your stuff to it.
-Olaf

I assume you are in the UK?
Why not look at the p3Steel or the i3 from Prusa Research?

[shop.prusa3d.com]

But to answer your question, any of the 3 will give you a cheap Chinese printer.

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My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

I just ordered the items below

[orballoprinting.com]


Prusa i3 Steel Rods
Prusa i3 Steel Frame (P3STEEL) - Paint (Powder coating) : BLACK
Espejo cama caliente
Hotend ALL METAL fully assembled - Diámetro filamento : 3mm
Tornillería completa Prusa i3 Steel
Pack 4 muelles cama caliente
Idler

Total Cost Including shipping to united kingdom was 138,02 € on paypal It is -€108.84 EUR (equals -£82.00 GBP)

Lol. I saw Chinese suppliers selling asbestos insulation for makerbot style hotend extruders. I didn't know you were allowed to buy or sell asbestos anymore. I Bring it up because I see you have the same type of extruder . Just don't play around with the insulation around the tip.

You could of gone a real thick ply. I went 18mm marine. after getting the smooth rods, motors. Plastic parts, it's all low cost sailing.

The hotend looks like it was imported from China. It is cheaper to order such things direct from China. [www.ebay.com]
A lot of people have reported problems with cheaper hotends. I think it is worth the extra to buy the guaranteed high quality original from [e3d-online.com]
If you buy Chinese goods from a reseller you can pay a lot more than ordering direct. As an example:
[orballoprinting.com]
[www.banggood.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/04/2015 05:06PM by Ralph.Hilton.