What is the biggest repstrap?

Hi, anybody know if there is a repstrap that has a bigger actual printing work area larger than Mendel? Mendel is I guess 200mm x 200mm x 140mm right? I am about to convert my makerbot finally to a repstrap and while I'm at it I was planning on making the build area huge... just because I can.

Would a 16in. (406.4mm) x 10in (254mm) x 10in (254mm) be the biggest repstrap work area to date?

Thanks!

BfB Rapman is 230mm x 230mm x 100mm

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repraplogphase.blogspot.com

that's the biggest?

Too my knowledge, yes. RepRap Darwin had the largest build area, and BfB is based off it. So BfB/Darwin are the biggest.

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repraplogphase.blogspot.com

Ok thanks!

From the Mendel wiki home page... "Bigger print area, smaller machine footprint ". That is one of the clever things about Mendel, it is smaller and has a bigger print area vs. Darwin.


spacexula Wrote:
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> Too my knowledge, yes. RepRap Darwin had the
> largest build area, and BfB is based off it. So
> BfB/Darwin are the biggest.

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-Steve

tesla893 Wrote:
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> From the Mendel wiki home page... "Bigger print
> area, smaller machine footprint ". That is one of
> the clever things about Mendel, it is smaller and
> has a bigger print area vs. Darwin.
>

Clever, but is it actually true? I don't have my Darwin running but it sure looks like it has a bigger build area than my Mendel.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

At least for me, the Darwin has a lot of dead space, and can't use nearly as much of the platform as it looks like. But that might just be how I've set it up.

As you ask for RepStraps, you can increase a Wolfstrap in size easily. Mine accidently covers a build volume of 250 x 250 x 90 mm now. Available drawer slider sizes are the only limit.

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Generation 7 Electronics	Teacup Firmware	RepRap DIY

I think all the axes of the my Darwin move a bit further than my Mendel. Also it is a bit of a myth that Mendel is smaller than Darwin. If you take into account that the bed overhangs the frame at its extremes it takes up about the same space on a desk. I discovered this when I put a box around mine. It needs to be about 550 by 500. I think I could put my Darwin in the same box.

The Mendel is a lot lower, but then again, my Darwin has a much bigger z-travel, with my alternative z-axis design.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

nophead Wrote:
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> I think all the axes of the my Darwin move a bit
> further than my Mendel. Also it is a bit of a myth
> that Mendel is smaller than Darwin. If you take
> into account that the bed overhangs the frame at
> its extremes it takes up about the same space on a
> desk. I discovered this when I put a box around
> mine. It needs to be about 550 by 500. I think I
> could put my Darwin in the same box.
>
> The Mendel is a lot lower, but then again, my
> Darwin has a much bigger z-travel, with my
> alternative z-axis design.
This has been bugging me and I saw this from Sebastien Bailard in another thread...

Mendel's got an edge, print volume wise:
* Darwin’s build area is about 23cm x 23cm x 10cm: 5290 cubic centimeters
* Mendel’s build area is about20cm x 20cm x 14cm: 5600 cubic centimeters
* Cupcake CNC’s build area is 10cm x 10cm 13cm: 1300 cubic centimeters
* Mendel Mini’s is supposedly approximately 11cm x 14cm x 10cm: 1540 cubic centimeters

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-Steve

* Darwin’s build area is about 23cm x 23cm x 10cm: 5290 cubic centimeters
* Mendel’s build area is about20cm x 20cm x 14cm: 5600 cubic centimeters
* Cupcake CNC’s build area is 10cm x 10cm 13cm: 1300 cubic centimeters
* Mendel Mini’s is supposedly approximately 11cm x 14cm x 10cm: 1540 cubic centimeters

That was a cut-and-paste from a blog. ... It's probably true. Probably.

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-Sebastien, RepRap.org library gnome.

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Remember, you're all RepRap developers (once you've joined the super-secret developer mailing list), and the wiki, RepRap.org, [reprap.org] is for everyone and everything!

Hi, im working on a machine which has a 1 cubic meter build area and which could also be easily expanded.
..progress is a bit stalled because of "insufficient funds" but im still behind it.

you can check it out on http://lebigrep.org

I am in the process of building something along the lines of MakerBot. I have purchased pine shelving which is 390mm x 900mm x 16mm and I hope to minimise the cutting. I figure this will be strong to avoid any flexing. I do not want it to be too big but I do want the maximum usable area. I am going to forego the space under for the power supply. I am considering using either a mini-ITX power supply or an older laptop supply. I am designing my own electronics based on the Propeller chip.

"Propeller Chip"? What's that?

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Generation 7 Electronics	Teacup Firmware	RepRap DIY

See the article Parallax Propeller from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.

The Propeller chip makes it easy to rapidly develop embedded applications. Its eight processors (cogs) can operate simultaneously, either independently or cooperatively, sharing common resources through a central hub. The developer has full control over how and when each cog is employed; there is no compiler-driven or operating system-driven splitting of tasks among multiple cogs. A shared system clock keeps each cog on the same time reference, allowing for true deterministic timing and synchronization. Two programming languages are available: the easy-to-learn high-level Spin, and Propeller Assembly which can execute at up to 160 MIPS (20 MIPS per cog).

Info from Parrallax.

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

Bob pretty much answered what the Propeller chip is/does. We refer to it as the prop over on the forum.

By using multiple cogs it makes things easy to program. We can use a cog or two to generate video - composite video or VGA - by using a few resistors and 3 I/Os for composite and 8 for VGA. PS2 keyboard uses another cog (many USB keyboards support PS2 mode). It's my favourite chip, but it's a bit expensive but does other things easily too. There is only 1 version and the peripherals such as UARTs are soft. We also use SD/microSD with the prop too so we can load software or data from here.

I have not quite decided the exact configuration, but I expect to have a USB connection to the pc, microSD, TV and keyboard and sound connection, and of course the connection to the 4x Steppers, 2x Heater/Sensor pairs (extruder and baseplate). I plan on a small pcb with smt construction. Here is a link to other prop designs of mine www.cluso.bluemagic.biz

Currently I am unsure if I will place the stepper drivers and heater/sensor controls on the same pcb as the prop or use seperate pcbs.

Answering the original question about the biggest userable space.

My current repstrap is 400mm x 300mm with 200mm deep

However probably not the most space efficent at a total size of 800mm x 600mm x 450mm
and possibly the only reprap in the world which you can sit on without it breaking.

Grin

Stephen

Do you have a photo Stephen?

Hi

I have uploaded an out of date picture on this message. If you are interested in the latest version I can upload it.

I think the advantage of my repstrap is it is easy to build since most of it is MDF and is as stable as a rock so should be able to handle a mill tool.

Once I have added the mill bit it will graduate from a repstrap to a reprap as it will be able to cut MDF to create itself.
Which is cool because as this is a subtractive process it will be a lot faster than building up an object layer by layer.

Anyway So far I have destroyed 8 PTFE tubes with my makerbot extruder and it was getting expensive. So my current goal is to produce a PTFE less extruder with an extruder of 0.1mm diameter which can be completely disassembled and reassembled in 5 minutes.

Currently my design is managing 0.5mm (standard) with a Mk4 makerbot extruder motor. I can completely disassemble it in the five minutes range.
I hope the Mk5 pulley from makerbot will be able to get my 0.28mm nossil running. But want to try a few other tricks before I resort to that purchase.

Incidentally has anyone tried spray on Teflon in the extruder nossil? It can handle 250C and is smooth with a capital smooo.
Which is a low coefficient of friction for the grown up out there of 0.04 with steel as the second surface. Brass is 0.35 while the
Aluminium I am currently using is 1.05 (ouch). Possibly will re engineer in Gun metal (bronze) as this has the heat conductivity I desire with a 0.22 coefficient of friction. But the Teflon looked like fun and a lot less lathe work.

Some reading for anyone interested.

[www.rocol.com.au]

P.s. The 0.1mm drill bits are on order.

regards

Stephen George

P.s. Anyone want to buy some T5 or T2.5 timing belts? I need to sell them to buy some supplies from makerbot

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/06/2010 09:59AM by stephen george.

stephen george Wrote:
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> and possibly the only reprap in the world which
> you can sit on without it breaking.
>
> Grin

Not wanting to start a "mine is stronger than yours" thing...

But I"m pretty confident that I could use mine as a jack-stand to hold up my car...


Al...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/06/2010 05:13PM by araspitfire.

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[araspitfire.blogspot.com]

Stephen,
Nice big RepStrap . I would appreciate you posting the latest photo please.

Are you driving the Y axis threaded bars directly with the stepper motor (Y moving the platform left/right in your pic) ?

You have used MDF making a strong and stable RepStrap which is the conclusion I came to after reading a lot on the forum.

araspitfire: That is a very nice construction with the extruded aluminium, but expensive.

What motors are each of you using? Nema 17 or 23? Torque? Max Current & Resistance?

cluso99 Wrote:
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> What motors are each of you using? Nema 17 or 23?
> Torque? Max Current & Resistance?


I'm using Nema 23s Nanotec ST5918M1008

Tons of power, but I plan to make it into a mill eventually.

It's way overbuild to print, but I want room to grow.

Al...

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[araspitfire.blogspot.com]

H

Araspitfire said
But I"m pretty confident that I could use mine as a jack-stand to hold up my car...

My reply.
I am not so sure yours could jack up a car but it sure does looks good. You must be very proud.
I am green with envy. Well done.

cluso99 said
What motors are each of you using? Nema 17 or 23? Torque? Max Current & Resistance?

My reply:
I am using NEMA23 (which is what came with the Bit from bytes kit).

cluso99 said
Are you driving the Y axis threaded bars directly with the stepper motor (Y moving the platform left/right in your pic) ?

My reply:
Yes I am. Also the X is direct as well. Direct is so easy with less to go wrong.
Why do you ask?

cluso99 said
Nice big RepStrap . I would appreciate you posting the latest photo please.

My reply:
I have added it to my things todo and I will do it when I get in from work. If you want to build your own I would be happy to
create instructions for you.

Is there any specific part you wants as a close up?

regards

Stephen

@Stephen: I asked about the direct drive as that is what it looked like from the picture. I realise it wastes a little space but I would think it was easier.

OT. I have worked out an X & Y axis mechanics which can be identical and can be built with only the bar, belt (or threaded rod), and base length varying to make the workarea smaller/larger. By using the same identical mechanics for both it is possible to reduce production costs by getting a bulk order done. I am just trying to find the easiest free Cad program to draw it up (never used this type of cad program before although I layout pcbs and schematics). When I have done this I will post it for suggestions and comments. My intention is to reduce the platform's weight as I want to make the X & Y axis platforms move in the Z axis also, meaning the extruder will be fixed. My thoughts are that the extruder is causing lots of problems and one of these may be resolved if it didnt move. Also, I want to be able to change the extruder for many other items such as possibley even a drill or router.

Hi

I look forward to seeing your design. Having a fixed extruder does indeed solve alot of problems.
However most of my problems are caused by head crashes into cold plastic with the subsequent PTFE failure.

I have observed that ideas are a dime a dozen here. Actually testing ideas is much more rare.
So I would advise you to get your idea on paper. Build it. Then show the comunity. My reprap is
nothing like the one I originally designed.

Good luck

Stephen

@Stephen: Yes I have a sketch done and I am now trying to get it into a cad package so I can put it on the forum for comments. No use building something if it has obvious flaws that others have tried. I have gone though a few designs already on paper, particularly as I read a lot of info on the forums and elsewhere. Ultimately, I like simplicity, common parts where possible, and ease of being able to build, plus of course low cost. Thus, my outer frame will be 16mm pine as it is cheap and solid. Later, I will try and re-make those parts with the RepRap itself and glue sections together, like was done by someone with the black CupCake. However, I am trying to make the platform workarea larger for this bit, so I coudl end up with a micro and a maxi design although both would only have a couple of different parts. We shall see.

Regarding your head crashes, I would expect the software to prevent such a thing??? The head (in this case) should always move upwards, and any attempt to move downwards should be prompted for permission???

Yes I have a sketch done and I am now trying to get it into a cad package so I can put it on the forum for comments.

cluso99, try http://reprap.org/wiki/Ingenious_Wooden_Box_Type_Machine if you're looking for a space to document.
(Use http://reprap.org/wiki/Example as an example.)

What CAD program are you using?
Free-CAD?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/09/2010 01:16PM by SebastienBailard.

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-Sebastien, RepRap.org library gnome.

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Remember, you're all RepRap developers (once you've joined the super-secret developer mailing list), and the wiki, RepRap.org, [reprap.org] is for everyone and everything!

cluso99 said
Regarding your head crashes, I would expect the software to prevent such a thing???
The head (in this case) should always move upwards, and any attempt to move downwards should be prompted for permission???

My reply
Your reply make complete and obvious sense and I wish it was so. But it's a little more complex than that.
My old extruder had a 0.5mm hole and laid down an extrusion with as diameter of 0.55mm.
This would settle into an oval with a height of 0.47mm due to gravity. But that is when the plastic is hot.

I don't have a heated bed so the first layer of any object is very cold (20c) and probably settles into an oval of 0.51mm
This is not a problem with a small objects as the the next layer is hot and a 0.04 error is not a big deal. But with larger
objects each layer has time to cool and therefore each layer is 0.51mm not 0.47mm.

Very soon the head will crash as it is only moving down 0.47mm. But this only becomes apparant after a few layers are printed

Of course it took me about six months to work this out and about $USD50 in PTFE tubing. I could not understand how I could print
a single object perfectly but when I printed 10 at the same time a layer at a time it was a disaster.

Note: I live in Australia and in the summer a 35C - 40c is not unusual and this also effected the results.
I am in winter now so its a "freezing" 15c and this effects warping issues as well.

regards

Stephen

P.s. This is a perfect example of why you should do your own research and not reply on other people too much.
Obviously listen to what people have to say as they can give you great ideas but test your own ideas.

Thanks Stephen. Where in Oz are you? I am regularly between Gosford (100km north of Sydney) and the Gold Coast, and I often drive between the two.