building new bigger printer

seem I have got my printer working normal again today, it is like a everyday setup with this thing, maybe just cheap components

I want to build a bigger and better printer, could anyone give me some suggestions on components to use?

I'm hoping to build one that could do anything between 400mm/3 to 600mm/3 if possible with multi extruder, the more I can put on it the better

or whatever the size you guys would think best with components available to buy

thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/26/2015 03:25PM by deaconfrost.

Use 1.5" square 8020 aluminum extrusion for the frame. Use linear guides wherever possible. Use lead screws for Z axis and if there are multiple screws, drive them with a single motor.

For info on mistakes to avoid, see the link in my signature, below.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

thanks, thats very helpful

When designing try to focus first on the stability, then on the actual printer stuff.
I have seen many designs out there with the primary focus on "open plan living" and good looks but not too many that can combine that with real stability in all areas.
A square frame either needs solid walls or added diagonal supports unless you want to use quite big luminium profiles.
Speaking of them: The best killer for stability here is cutting them badly. Doing this by hand is no a good idea as a perfectly flat surface is prefered.
Be aware that long linear rails in good quality can be quite costly, so for overszied printers it might be worth to check drive systems that use the aluminium frame and rollers.

I have a friend works in a steel place, I be able to get material at trade prices, hopefully not too much at that, yea I agree on stablilty, after doing all the messing about with this printer I have, I've learned that the more stable the print head is the better the print result, so I will focus on the frame and drive system before the extruder head.

thanks for the reminder

Quote
Downunder35m
When designing try to focus first on the stability, then on the actual printer stuff.
I have seen many designs out there with the primary focus on "open plan living" and good looks but not too many that can combine that with real stability in all areas.
A square frame either needs solid walls or added diagonal supports unless you want to use quite big luminium profiles.
Speaking of them: The best killer for stability here is cutting them badly. Doing this by hand is no a good idea as a perfectly flat surface is prefered.
Be aware that long linear rails in good quality can be quite costly, so for overszied printers it might be worth to check drive systems that use the aluminium frame and rollers.

Yes- focus on stability.

No! You can't cut aluminum profiles by hand and get the ends square. You can't do it with a power saw either. You must cut a little longer than required and mill square and to final length.

Unless you're going really huge, you don't need solid walls or diagonal supports, and you don't need especially gigantic cross sections (though you probably need bigger than 20mm square that so many printers use).

Take a look at my printer linked in my signature below to see what is possible. The frame is made form 1.5" square 8020 extrusions purchased at $2 per lb from a local scrap yard. It is so solid I have not had to adjust bed level or zero in months of daily use even after transporting the machine between home and the makerspace laying in its side in my car.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I've been fooling around with an all plastic frame, with a build plate of 12" x 18", using PVC pipe and printed connectors. The cut lengths don't have to be very accurate, maybe plus or minus a few millimeters, and the ends don't have to be perfectly square. And it's very cheap and easy to work with so that you can do a lot of experimenting.

Squaring it up may be a problem, but that's why god invented shims. Who knows? It might actually work...fun times ahead.

More info here: [www.thingiverse.com]

Interesting idea. Why would you use 4 pieces of 1/2" pipe instead of one 2 or 3" pipe? Are you planning on printing corners?

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

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the_digital_dentist
Interesting idea. Why would you use 4 pieces of 1/2" pipe instead of one 2 or 3" pipe? Are you planning on printing corners?

Much easier to work with and transport...I can take a bunch of 5 foot lengths on the bus with no problem. The smaller pipe is easily cut with a hand-held ratcheting PVC pipe cutter; no power tools required.

I already have corner pieces printed: [www.thingiverse.com] Similar pieces for larger pipe would be huge and require thicker walls...the versions for the smaller pipe print well with ABS (no warping or layer splitting). I will also be using this [www.thingiverse.com] and this [www.thingiverse.com]. And here's a little fluff piece which discusses some of this: [3dprint.com] .

Preliminary tests look good. The parts fit is snug; they can be tweaked into good alignment and then screwed together for rigid fit. I think it will be strong enough for a CoreXY printer, but only time will tell. I still need some 12mm smooth rod & bearings, motors, and more ABS.

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the_digital_dentist
Interesting idea. Why would you use 4 pieces of 1/2" pipe instead of one 2 or 3" pipe? Are you planning on printing corners?

The design is a remix of this.
-Olaf

Oops, Donald was faster

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2015 08:29AM by o_lampe.

Deaconfrost,

Take a look at Ingentis/Herculien builds. Designing from scratch might just leave you in the same position. The Herculien is large, adaptable, decent sized community behind it. Lots of options. If you dont follow the exact build, there is plenty room for modification/improvisation.
HTH

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o_lampe

The design is a remix of this.
-Olaf

Uh, you realize that I remixed my own design?

HercuLien looks good, the build look solid enough to go bigger on print area

the extruder fan decided to not work anymore on me, this board always seems to be funny from day one, I checked it with a new fan, no power, but the both fans works well on 12v power supply, I've no meter to test as its broken, but by the looks of it, I'm getting nothing from the board, since I'm going to build a bigger printer, anyone have any suggestions on a better setup on the controller boards? currently running arduino mega 2560 ramps 1.4, if there's a better setup, I rather go with that for future proof on the bigger printer instead of just replacing the same. thanks