Better than painters tape.....

Hello 3d world i am a newbee 3d'er and i found that using painters tape is a hassel to apply being i can only find 2'' tape.....well i found a better solution....VINYL GRAHICS MASKING. (TRANSFER MASK)
I have a 220mm print bed and i use 6" and 12" mask for my bed....one swipe and done. Plus it lasts thru several prints and sticks very well until i scrap a hole in it removing a part. TRY IT OUT YOU MIGHT LIKE IT. And its cheaper in the long run. You can pick sum up at any print shop or ebay. 6"x150' = $25 JUST SAYIN.....ACE!

Hi,

I found this method after having problems with blue painters tape.
Having level bed and a good Z height setting is the first step
Buy some PVA glue, apply thin layer to cold piece of glass, turned on the heated bed
Once it becomes clear you can start the print.
When the print is done, turn off heated bed and wait for temp to drop to about 30-45 deg c and print will pop off.
If you need to replace the surface, just wash under a tap, dry and wipe with IPA and apply PVA.

It's a nice clean method, which is good when you use your printer at home.

I also have good 50mm wide Eurocel blue painters tape and 99.9% IPA upon my web site, link below

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Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

You should really look at a PEI plastic for the print surface. ive been using it for a year and its amazing.
I tried tape, hairspray, ABS Glue, Elmers Glue, Green Tape, Blue tape, Kapton Tape.
PEI has been the best and most reliable solution.

I mainly print ABS and PETG

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I havent printed on anything other than the stock bedwhich is aluminum heated bed....the mask is a simple solution to covering the bed quick and easy...beats running strips to cover the bed.
And yes ther is other solutions to how you prep your bed, but not everyone knows anything different yet. Like me im a newbie and will learn in time....thanx for the info about the other preps maybe one day i will try it....as for now everything is working

I second PEI. Buildtak is a nice, cheap-ish PEI film with adhesive; a real sheet of PEI will last forever.

Epicepee, where did you hear that Builtak is PEI? I have heard many people say it is absolutely not PEI. I don't know for sure myself but it sure does not look like PEI.

We have a printer at work that comes with a PEI bed - after 6 months the PEI was delaminating in some areas and had what looked like air bubbles under it.

The printer company was quick to send us a replacement bed, but what I have taken from it is that PEI may not be the silver bullet it is made out to be.

At home I use 3D EEz on an aluminum bed and I find that the print quality and adhesion is pretty much what the PEI bed at work gives, cool thing about the 3D Eez is that when it starts to look battered I just remove it and apply a new bed layer.

Check out the "PrintBite" thread. Much tougher longer lasting and wider compatibility with more materials than PEI.

tmorris9: I'm not sure. I seem to remember the guy who made Buildtak actually commented on it. I could be wrong, though.

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atunguyd
We have a printer at work that comes with a PEI bed - after 6 months the PEI was delaminating in some areas and had what looked like air bubbles under it.

The printer company was quick to send us a replacement bed, but what I have taken from it is that PEI may not be the silver bullet it is made out to be.

sounds like a thin sheet of PEI glued to something else. The PEI sheet itself would not delaminate

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Mutley3D
Check out the "PrintBite" thread. Much tougher longer lasting and wider compatibility with more materials than PEI.

Why would a 0.8 sheet of printbite "glued" to a underlayer with double sided tape be "much stronger, longer lasting" then a PEI? Specially when most glues will not survive x hour prints @ 110*c ?

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Frans@France

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Mutley3D
Check out the "PrintBite" thread. Much tougher longer lasting and wider compatibility with more materials than PEI.

Why would a 0.8 sheet of printbite "glued" to a underlayer with double sided tape be "much stronger, longer lasting" then a PEI? Specially when most glues will not survive x hour prints @ 110*c ?

I think you answer the question in your own question - "most" is not all glues. If you use the correct adhesive, and test it over many months....

Care should also be taken when applying, including thorough cleaning of surfaces to be bonded and correct fitting to avoid trapped air - sloppy application will result in poor performance. These are basic principles! You may actually be surprised at how many adhesives exist that will hold at these temperatures. Many will actually cure and increase their bonding strength.

Also , PEI is a thermoplastic material, meaning it will soften with heat, whereas PrintBite is made from a thermoset material which uses heat to cure.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/16/2016 08:59AM by Mutley3D.