extract configuration.h

Simple question which I can't really seem to find an answer to.
I see tons of post how to modify the firmware on my ramps 1.4 board which is fine and I can download the configuration.h file from some websites blah blah

However what i haven't been able to find is a post on if it is possible to extract the current configuration.h from the board?
I would like to do this because I am pretty sure my hictop reprap pruse i3 came with some settings modified on it. The company will not give me the configuration.h file I have asked multiple times. They respond to other requests but not this request.
Ideally I would like to make a backup of the configuration.h because I would like to add my bed level sensor to it and dont want to end of breaking some (maybe) special settings they have.

is this possible to extract/read the current configuration.h?

... no, it's not possible.

The arduino IDE reads all the separate files and converts them into a single 'image', which then is uploaded to the Arduinos flash ...

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Viktor
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Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]

Remind them that the Marlin firmware is GPL and they are required to provide their source.

[github.com]

I agree with VDX, it's not possible.
But you can get information from it, which might make the commissioning easier upon the re-build
There some g codes, which you can send to the printer [reprap.org]
From about M500 to M503 which will write/read data to/from the EEPROM.
Also M92 will display the current step_per_mm values for each axis.

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

I have the aluminium prusa i3 from hictop and they provided the complete marlin files, but I had to modify some stuff. I think they don't really know how to configure the machine because the steps per mm for the extruder where a bit wrong, same as some of the autoleveling things

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My printers:
-Makerbot TOM (#5215, circa 2011), MK6 extruder, ABS 3 mm
-HICTOP Prusa i3 (modded for auto-level, thread screws), ABS/PLA 1.75 mm

About me:
[www.thingiverse.com]

@VDX - This is what I was afraid of not being able to extract it.

@hoxsiew -I will however its not like they are refusing to give it to me, the literally just dont respond. In a sense it is refusing they did that with the STL files I asked for, for the original 3d printed parts. Really annoying

@eried - I have the aluminum version as well! could you send them to me? Yeah I saw the steps per mm currently everytime I turn it on I just reset it to what I have calibrated it. very annoying but I have been waiting till I get a hold of the original file before I start messing with it.



Also speaking of the steps per MM. they sold to me a 200x270 bed which is fine, works great HOWEVER i actually measured the bed and its 220x270. This is great extra 20 mm! just tried printing on that side and it literally doesn't print on it even if I set the settings in slic3r or cura. The nozzel/ x carriage has enough room to move all the way to the end of the rail without hitting anything. I suspect that is another firmware limitation that I have to change. Where would I go about changing that. once I have the configuration.h file?

... in the file "Configuration.h" in the MArlin-firmwar are settings/defines for the working area:

// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS 145
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Z_MAX_POS 50



... and if the printer is allowed to drive outsides or not:

#define min_software_endstops false //true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops false //true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

---

Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]

Quote
bizit524
@VDX - This is what I was afraid of not being able to extract it.

@hoxsiew -I will however its not like they are refusing to give it to me, the literally just dont respond. In a sense it is refusing they did that with the STL files I asked for, for the original 3d printed parts. Really annoying

@eried - I have the aluminum version as well! could you send them to me? Yeah I saw the steps per mm currently everytime I turn it on I just reset it to what I have calibrated it. very annoying but I have been waiting till I get a hold of the original file before I start messing with it.



Also speaking of the steps per MM. they sold to me a 200x270 bed which is fine, works great HOWEVER i actually measured the bed and its 220x270. This is great extra 20 mm! just tried printing on that side and it literally doesn't print on it even if I set the settings in slic3r or cura. The nozzel/ x carriage has enough room to move all the way to the end of the rail without hitting anything. I suspect that is another firmware limitation that I have to change. Where would I go about changing that. once I have the configuration.h file?

Well my file is already modified with leadscrews and autolevelling [www.thingiverse.com] not sure if is useful for you. And you need to adjust the bed limits in the configuration.h and cura aplication itself to reach all the corners of the bed

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My printers:
-Makerbot TOM (#5215, circa 2011), MK6 extruder, ABS 3 mm
-HICTOP Prusa i3 (modded for auto-level, thread screws), ABS/PLA 1.75 mm

About me:
[www.thingiverse.com]

Quote
eried

Quote
bizit524
@VDX - This is what I was afraid of not being able to extract it.

@hoxsiew -I will however its not like they are refusing to give it to me, the literally just dont respond. In a sense it is refusing they did that with the STL files I asked for, for the original 3d printed parts. Really annoying

@eried - I have the aluminum version as well! could you send them to me? Yeah I saw the steps per mm currently everytime I turn it on I just reset it to what I have calibrated it. very annoying but I have been waiting till I get a hold of the original file before I start messing with it.



Also speaking of the steps per MM. they sold to me a 200x270 bed which is fine, works great HOWEVER i actually measured the bed and its 220x270. This is great extra 20 mm! just tried printing on that side and it literally doesn't print on it even if I set the settings in slic3r or cura. The nozzel/ x carriage has enough room to move all the way to the end of the rail without hitting anything. I suspect that is another firmware limitation that I have to change. Where would I go about changing that. once I have the configuration.h file?

Well my file is already modified with leadscrews and autolevelling [www.thingiverse.com] not sure if is useful for you. And you need to adjust the bed limits in the configuration.h and cura aplication itself to reach all the corners of the bed

Yeessss!!! you have auto leveling!!! can you still send it. What auto leveling are you using? because I have purchased and mounted /fitted the auto level inductive sensor already I have just been waiting on getting firmware from the company which is to no avail.
I am sure I can reedit the lead screws. I wanted to do this anyway down the road. I am guessing I will find that information somewhere on some wiki to change the steps per mm.

Sure, here are all the files I modified: [cloudup.com]

Download the latest marlin firmware and replace those. I modified some other parts to improve the user experience of the hictop printer, for example the encoding wheel was very imprecise and when I pushed it sometimes was choosing another option, etc

---

My printers:
-Makerbot TOM (#5215, circa 2011), MK6 extruder, ABS 3 mm
-HICTOP Prusa i3 (modded for auto-level, thread screws), ABS/PLA 1.75 mm

About me:
[www.thingiverse.com]

Quote
eried
Sure, here are all the files I modified: [cloudup.com]

Download the latest marlin firmware and replace those. I modified some other parts to improve the user experience of the hictop printer, for example the encoding wheel was very imprecise and when I pushed it sometimes was choosing another option, etc

Thanks so much this will help greatly. That is good you have modified those, I have noticed that as well along with I wanted to change one setting that is moving all the axis and the extruder instead of in the prepare menu which makes no sense I wanted to put it into the other menu below it
Thanks again

Cool, good luck!

Here is an improved fan too: [www.thingiverse.com]

I made it to avoid losing the airflow thru sides (the seal of the original one was not perfect)

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My printers:
-Makerbot TOM (#5215, circa 2011), MK6 extruder, ABS 3 mm
-HICTOP Prusa i3 (modded for auto-level, thread screws), ABS/PLA 1.75 mm

About me:
[www.thingiverse.com]

sorry for the extremely late response! ha didn't know that was you. i have already found most of your designs on thingiverse and have printed some. I just actually finished printing your z axis hictop version for threaded screws when mine come in, However I have not found that anybody has designed a z axis part which includes threaded portion on z AND X. I have found either or but not both. Have you located any of these by chance? I try to search Everything but the search function is HORRENDOUS. It searches all tag lines, entire body, and title i believe which makes it very inefficient

Thank you VDX i have now taken eried and edited it to the bed

I have also a question/s. Do you happen to remember the steps per mm for the threaded rod? I tried looking mine up but I cant find it anywhere. I found this on the metric standards but doesn't indicate if mine fits this
"A typical M8 rod has a pitch of 1.25"
I have changed the acceleration to 1500 instead of 3000 in line 3,4 and 6 because I was getting ringing. Is this ok or do I have to change it elsewhere?

I BELIEVE the first line is where i change the x axis steps per mm? it would be the 400?
It also looks like you have enabled the saving of EEPROM settings is this true? because I was looking for this as well but from googling it looks already setup.

Lastly I just changed the location of the y endstop sensor from under the bed to against my stepper motor. This is great however since it has changed i believe my bed is off by about 14 mm. IF I calculated right. Where is the offset setting for the y axis endstop? I see multiple y offset settings but not sure which one correlates with the endstop


What is the config_adv that you included? do i put this in as well when uploading?




#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,400,98.5}
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 45} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1500,1500,100,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1500 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 1500 // X, Y, Z acceleration in mm/s^2 for travel (non printing) moves

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2016 06:00PM by bizit524.

Quote
bizit524
sorry for the extremely late response! ha didn't know that was you. i have already found most of your designs on thingiverse and have printed some. I just actually finished printing your z axis hictop version for threaded screws when mine come in, However I have not found that anybody has designed a z axis part which includes threaded portion on z AND X. I have found either or but not both. Have you located any of these by chance? I try to search Everything but the search function is HORRENDOUS. It searches all tag lines, entire body, and title i believe which makes it very inefficient

Thank you VDX i have now taken eried and edited it to the bed

I have also a question/s. Do you happen to remember the steps per mm for the threaded rod? I tried looking mine up but I cant find it anywhere. I found this on the metric standards but doesn't indicate if mine fits this
"A typical M8 rod has a pitch of 1.25"
I have changed the acceleration to 1500 instead of 3000 in line 3,4 and 6 because I was getting ringing. Is this ok or do I have to change it elsewhere?

I BELIEVE the first line is where i change the x axis steps per mm? it would be the 400?
It also looks like you have enabled the saving of EEPROM settings is this true? because I was looking for this as well but from googling it looks already setup.

Lastly I just changed the location of the y endstop sensor from under the bed to against my stepper motor. This is great however since it has changed i believe my bed is off by about 14 mm. IF I calculated right. Where is the offset setting for the y axis endstop? I see multiple y offset settings but not sure which one correlates with the endstop


What is the config_adv that you included? do i put this in as well when uploading?




#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,400,98.5}
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 45} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1500,1500,100,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1500 // X, Y, Z and E acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // E acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 1500 // X, Y, Z acceleration in mm/s^2 for travel (non printing) moves

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec)

The Old mm was about 2560 instead of the 400 if I remember it correctly. I am not sure if acceleration affects in that way to the print, I'll have to check that. Do you have photos of the issue?

About the eeprom: Yeah. I like to save the things. Not sure about the advanced I checked all the modified files and uploaded these

---

My printers:
-Makerbot TOM (#5215, circa 2011), MK6 extruder, ABS 3 mm
-HICTOP Prusa i3 (modded for auto-level, thread screws), ABS/PLA 1.75 mm

About me:
[www.thingiverse.com]

Have had my HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3 black aluminum frame printer for about 2 months and have tweaked and refined it. Yesterday downloaded Marlin 1.1.0-RC5 and got the firmware uploaded and is performing great. I use custom stainless machine shop straight z-axis rods with standard 8mm x 1.25mm pitch, the OEM ones were junk.

Do not use OEM firmware, have horror stories include my own, source would not even compile = syntax errors! Latest HICTOP firmware upload bricked my friends HICi3 control board. Download latest Marlin, Marlin-1.1.0-RC5 as of today edit the file and upload using Arduino IDE v1.6.8 (do not use a IDE v1.5.x version).

Here is my latest (and heavily commented) EEPROM settings in the file:

// Default AXIS STEPS, MAX_FEEDRATE, ACCLERATION settings

// Default AXIS STEP Settings (motor steps) X, Y, Z, E
// 1a) default axis steps per unit for Ultimaker steps/mm ={8.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1}
// 1b) default axis steps per unit for HIC i3 steps/mm ={80,80,2560,94.4962144}, OEM z-axis threaded rods =8mm wide x 1.25mm pitch
//#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,2560,94.4962144} // original default for HIC i3, (steps/mm)
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,2559,98.6} // CL: default steps for _my_ HIC i3, you may need to change the Z and/or E for your machine

// Default MAXIMUM FEEDRATES (motor speeds) X, Y, Z, E - GLOBAL for printing and non-printing
//#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {200,200,5,17} // (mm/sec) default for Makerbot i3
//#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500,500,5,25} // (mm/sec) default for HIC i3
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE   {120,120,3,25} // (mm/sec) CL: default for _my_ HIC i3 max feedrate rated at ~120mm/sec

// Default MAXIMUM ACCELERATION (motor) X, Y, Z, E=(extrusion only) - max start speeds for accelerated moves
// NOTE: value stored in DEFAULT_ACCELERATION if lower, will limit these MAX rates
//#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,10000} // (mm/sec^2) default for HIC i3 - X, Y, Z, E(moves) maximum start speed for accelerated moves
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION   {1200,1200,50,10000} // (mm/sec^2) CL: for _my_ HIC i3 - X, Y, Z, E(moves) maximum start speed for accelerated moves
// E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

// Default misc. ACCELERATIONS
//#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION   500 // (mm/sec^2) default for Makerbot i3 - X, Y, Z and E max acceleration for printing moves
//#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // (mm/sec^2) default for HIC i3 - X, Y, Z and E max acceleration for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION   1200 // (mm/sec^2 ) CL: for _my_ HIC i3 - X, Y, Z and E max acceleration for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  3000 // (mm/sec^2) E acceleration for retracts (fliament purge and feed)
#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION   1200 // (mm/sec^2) X, Y, Z acceleration for travel (non-printing) moves

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
// default jerk values for HIC i3 ={20.0, 0.4, 5.0} (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK              2.0 // CL: For HIC i3, was =20, (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4  // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0  // (mm/sec)

E steps is post extruder calibration, DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION is from extensive testing = slow the thing down, factory setting is WAY too fast for this HICi3.
Also here is my Slic3r/Cura parameter worksheet and EEPROM variable/settings worksheet on another tab in the sheet, it may come in useful. Remember, these are my settings for what I call the "HICi3":


Also, I print from 30mm/sec and UP TO 60mm/sec. Slic3r default to 40mm/sec print speed. MAX feed rate (non-printing moves X and Y) 120mm/sec or even better set to 80mm/sec or you will shake a non-modified or a stock and not yet tuned HICi3 all to heck and your prints will suffer, trust me.

Hope that helps out, my machine is EEPROM enabled, SD card works 100%, default settings I just slice and print with NO messing with the LCD controls. If you would like a .zipped version complete file, let me know.

Chip

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Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/24/2016 11:46AM by GeorgeL16.

[electronics.stackexchange.com]

Take a look here, it is POSSIBLE!! It is a question on how much time you want to spend

Reading out the binary data has always been possible, turning that blob of numbers back into a configuration.h file almost impossible. Sure its possible given enough time, and a reference dump of every possible version of the firmware as a reference so you can find the digits that change , but so is counting every grain of sand. You will probably have counted all the sand before you have generated a usable configuration.h

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/25/2016 10:47PM by Dust.