Best model

Hello guys,

I'm new to the RepRap world, but not new to additive manufacturing. I'm an engineer and in college I got to work with top-of-the-line machines from 3D Systems, Stratasys and the former Z Corp, involving FDM, SLS and SLA technologies.
For a while now I've been wanting to put my own 3D printer together. I decided to take a look at the RepRap, only to find dozens of different models. On the main page, it says that the state-of-the-art project is the Snappy printer, since it has the most printable parts. However, reading reviews, I saw that the printer's body should be nice and sturdy.

What do you guys think would be a good alternative for someone who wants to build a nice printer? I've read that the Delta models have nice finishing.
I know this is a hard and subjective question. I just want to hear different opinions from more advanced users than me. I thank you guys!!!

Ivan

If you've worked with good industrial printers the majority of reprap designs will disappoint you. The vast majority of hobbyist machines are designed first and foremost to be cheap without regard to print quality (such as the all plastic machine you mentioned), with the implied result. That said, there's no reason you can't build a machine that's better. You have to decide what your goals are then choose a design that's most likely to allow you to achieve them.

Delta printers can produce some very nice parts and can run at pretty high speeds, but construction and tune-up can be tricky. Construction looks simple, but alignment is the part that's hard to get right. The guides need to parallel and evenly spaced, and then there's the tricky mechanics of the effector arms, etc. Debugging prints is another matter. If dimensions are off, figuring out what to adjust to correct the problem can be difficult. I would say that Delta machines are best suited for printing parts that don't need to be made to accurate shape and size.

If you want to print parts that do need accurate and precise dimensions, Cartesian machines are your best bet. Its easier to achieve the critical alignment of the guides and when there's a problem with a print, the print itself tells you where to look for the solution. For example, if the y axis dimension or layer registration is off, better check the y axis.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I have now a few weeks my p3steel working and I really glad that I have chosen that printer.
It performs very well, and it does what it should do, My budget was around 600 euro's but it can print pretty fast,

AMovie

also accurate, printed a X carrier and the bearings popped in the carrier without any play.

This is my first printer the onlything it doesn't have is a enclosure, they say you need it for ABS, but next week I will test that.

I don't know how big you intend to go, but designs that move the bed in the Z axis will allow you to print tall parts even with narrow bases. Machines that move the bed in the y axis can have problems maintaining print quality as the prints get taller because the print will start to wobble on the bed as the y axis jerks back and forth. Designs that move the bed in the Z axis are usually taller but have smaller footprint, in case space is an issue, and are usually easier to enclose in case you want to print with ABS.

I would definitely avoid machines that use two motors to lift the x axis if you intend to print parts to critical size and shape. In such machines it is too easy for the x axis alignment to be changed by something as easy as turning one of the Z axis screws with your fingers, or missed steps in one motor due to mechanical binding or an electrical problem. In other words, avoid any machine with a prepended "I" in the name.

I'd suggest having a look at coreXY architecture. The typical frame construction resembles a box which can make it very rigid if made well, and can be designed to be easily enclosed.

If you want highest print quality, use fully-supported linear guides instead of end-supported round guide rails, and use lead screws, not threaded rods, in the Z axis. If you build a machine that lifts the X axis with two screws, use a single motor and a belt to drive the screws so they always stay in sync.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Guys thank you.

My goal was just to have a printer at home to play around sometimes, nothing really big.
I was looking also at the Meldel90 and the Prusa i3. They seem good machines with plenty of material available.
The printer needs to be of easy assemble and maintenance, since i am starting with this.
This coreXY looks nice and easy. Do you have one digital dentist?

CoreXY is a really nice one and at the moment I am designing my own model.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Clearly, there's no such thing as best, only a selection of trade-offs and compromises. But if coreXY appeals to you one option is smartrapCore: [www.thingiverse.com]