FilaPrint the amazing print surface
Posted by Treito
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FilaPrint the amazing print surface May 24, 2016 12:48AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
Hello,
I would like to report my experiences with the FilaPrint-surface after I tested different so called permanent print surfaces. In short words: It's amazing. I have tested several surfaces before, but none was nearly as good as this one.
It's a small sort of sheet, partly transparent and the color is some sort of light brown. You have to ad it somewhere. I decided to ad it onto borosilicate glass which is clamped onto the aluminium heat spreader of my printer (I used the Ormerod 1 for testing).
Before you can start printing it needs some first setup, but if you are lazy like me you don't have to do very much except of waiting.
After this procedure is done you can do some little test prints. You have to find the right setup. Much important is for people using the paper sheet method: You need to print higher compared to other method (like BuildTak) so get rid of it.
The stickiness is the part that surprises me most. My setup was for the first layer 63°C bed temperature and 210°C filament temperature, dropping to 55°C/200°C after the first layer for PLA and 115°C/240°C for ABS.
The bed temperature for ABS may be a little bit higher than requested in the manual, but that's caused by a faulty measurement setup, because the thermistor is placed inside the aluminium heat spreader touching the down side of the glass. So the surface is around 106°C.
With these temperatures the parts sticks like hell during printing. The only downside is that you have to wait until you can free the parts. You have to wait and you should if you don't want to damage the surface. (And I killed already three black surfaces from another vendor because of printing too deep).
The manual says you have to wait until the temperature drops to room temperature. For me PLA gets free at around 35°C and ABS around 60°C or 80°C depending on the brand.
The cleaning is only allowed with a dry cloth. No cleaners are allowed and therefore you shouldn't touch the surface with your fingers. Also metal parts are not allowed.
The surface is robust against nozzle contacts, but of course you should avoid it. The old leveling method of my Ormerod 2 where the touch of the nozzle triggered a microswitch shouldn't be used for example.
The first layer is also astonishing. I didn't knew that my printer could print the text of the 3DBenchy-model this good. The surface is glossy. Depending on your setup you still see the infill pattern if the height was right (and therefore the text of the benchy could have been printed well) or you get a complete glossy surface with a very tiny structure.
Yesterday I was able to finish a 10 hours print of 7 different ABS parts of different sizes. With another material that would have been impossible.
But what was the reason why I bought FilaPrint?
I used another solution based of FR4 with a special surface treatment before. Regarding PLA I was satisfied, but ABS was nearly impossible. It always got free. I raised the temperatures up to 125°C/250°C to get a little bit stickiness. I contacted the support or to be more correctly the support contacted me as I tried to ask here in the forum for help. The support did not want that I unsettle potential customers.
At least the support tried to blame me for the failure of his product. I don't know the exact order anymore, but it's a little bit funny. One time my printer was the cause, because last year I had trouble with one printer and its ABL and several other problems. I have a two printer setup and I recently fixed all problems with the first printer. Another reason was the printer design. One printer is equipped with an aluminium heat spreader between the MK2-bed and the glass. I should get rid of it, but RepRapPro would have been thought about this and it will have a reason to be there and my second printer is only equipped with a MK3-heatbed and there it isn't working either. For one printer only I used brake cleaner to clean the surface (as I had here much more trouble and brake cleaner was very helpful when printing directly onto glass).. It wasn't strictly forbidden according to the manual but now it should have damaged the surface permanently. So I used a new one (I bought some spare) and guess what: It only lasted one week.
After that the support told me that I have a special printer setup and there is small amount of printers out there which needs an ABS-juice treatment once, but I bought this surface to never have to use ABS-juice. The support persisted on this treatment and quit all other solutions so I decided to buy the FilaPrint and it is worth any Cent.
So here is my personnel list of Print surfaces.
Best regards,
Sven
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
I would like to report my experiences with the FilaPrint-surface after I tested different so called permanent print surfaces. In short words: It's amazing. I have tested several surfaces before, but none was nearly as good as this one.
It's a small sort of sheet, partly transparent and the color is some sort of light brown. You have to ad it somewhere. I decided to ad it onto borosilicate glass which is clamped onto the aluminium heat spreader of my printer (I used the Ormerod 1 for testing).
Before you can start printing it needs some first setup, but if you are lazy like me you don't have to do very much except of waiting.
After this procedure is done you can do some little test prints. You have to find the right setup. Much important is for people using the paper sheet method: You need to print higher compared to other method (like BuildTak) so get rid of it.
The stickiness is the part that surprises me most. My setup was for the first layer 63°C bed temperature and 210°C filament temperature, dropping to 55°C/200°C after the first layer for PLA and 115°C/240°C for ABS.
The bed temperature for ABS may be a little bit higher than requested in the manual, but that's caused by a faulty measurement setup, because the thermistor is placed inside the aluminium heat spreader touching the down side of the glass. So the surface is around 106°C.
With these temperatures the parts sticks like hell during printing. The only downside is that you have to wait until you can free the parts. You have to wait and you should if you don't want to damage the surface. (And I killed already three black surfaces from another vendor because of printing too deep).
The manual says you have to wait until the temperature drops to room temperature. For me PLA gets free at around 35°C and ABS around 60°C or 80°C depending on the brand.
The cleaning is only allowed with a dry cloth. No cleaners are allowed and therefore you shouldn't touch the surface with your fingers. Also metal parts are not allowed.
The surface is robust against nozzle contacts, but of course you should avoid it. The old leveling method of my Ormerod 2 where the touch of the nozzle triggered a microswitch shouldn't be used for example.
The first layer is also astonishing. I didn't knew that my printer could print the text of the 3DBenchy-model this good. The surface is glossy. Depending on your setup you still see the infill pattern if the height was right (and therefore the text of the benchy could have been printed well) or you get a complete glossy surface with a very tiny structure.
Yesterday I was able to finish a 10 hours print of 7 different ABS parts of different sizes. With another material that would have been impossible.
But what was the reason why I bought FilaPrint?
I used another solution based of FR4 with a special surface treatment before. Regarding PLA I was satisfied, but ABS was nearly impossible. It always got free. I raised the temperatures up to 125°C/250°C to get a little bit stickiness. I contacted the support or to be more correctly the support contacted me as I tried to ask here in the forum for help. The support did not want that I unsettle potential customers.
At least the support tried to blame me for the failure of his product. I don't know the exact order anymore, but it's a little bit funny. One time my printer was the cause, because last year I had trouble with one printer and its ABL and several other problems. I have a two printer setup and I recently fixed all problems with the first printer. Another reason was the printer design. One printer is equipped with an aluminium heat spreader between the MK2-bed and the glass. I should get rid of it, but RepRapPro would have been thought about this and it will have a reason to be there and my second printer is only equipped with a MK3-heatbed and there it isn't working either. For one printer only I used brake cleaner to clean the surface (as I had here much more trouble and brake cleaner was very helpful when printing directly onto glass).. It wasn't strictly forbidden according to the manual but now it should have damaged the surface permanently. So I used a new one (I bought some spare) and guess what: It only lasted one week.
After that the support told me that I have a special printer setup and there is small amount of printers out there which needs an ABS-juice treatment once, but I bought this surface to never have to use ABS-juice. The support persisted on this treatment and quit all other solutions so I decided to buy the FilaPrint and it is worth any Cent.
So here is my personnel list of Print surfaces.
- FilaPrint
- BuildTak
- Pertinax (be careful about your healthy)
- PrintBite
- Kapton-Tape
- Blue Painters Tape
- Direct print onto glass
Best regards,
Sven
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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Re: FilaPrint the amazing print surface May 24, 2016 01:07AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 916 |
It sounds a lot like PEI, both from how you describe the appearance, to its performance.
Like you, I believed the publicity on that product, and like you, had issues with ABS adhesion. Believe it or not, I was also blamed and abused over email due to not being able to make it work properly.
I've got two printers, one with PEI, and one with that product, and the PEI printer is constantly being used. The other one (although being far more capable) only gets the simple jobs where I know that it won't require good adhesion.
Where do you get the Filaprint?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2016 01:07AM by nebbian.
Quote
I used another solution based of FR4 with a special surface treatment before. Regarding PLA I was satisfied, but ABS was nearly impossible. It always got free. I raised the temperatures up to 125°C/250°C to get a little bit stickiness. I contacted the support or to be more correctly the support contacted me as I tried to ask here in the forum for help. The support did not want that I unsettle potential customers.
At least the support tried to blame me for the failure of his product.
Like you, I believed the publicity on that product, and like you, had issues with ABS adhesion. Believe it or not, I was also blamed and abused over email due to not being able to make it work properly.
I've got two printers, one with PEI, and one with that product, and the PEI printer is constantly being used. The other one (although being far more capable) only gets the simple jobs where I know that it won't require good adhesion.
Where do you get the Filaprint?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2016 01:07AM by nebbian.
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Re: FilaPrint the amazing print surface May 24, 2016 01:33AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,699 |
I bought it directly at FilaFarm. [www.filafarm.de]
But this is the German distribution only, but I think you can switch to the inernational.
FilaPrint is an own material. Menawhile the company also sells PEI coated stuff. It's interesting to see the differences at their homepage.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
But this is the German distribution only, but I think you can switch to the inernational.
FilaPrint is an own material. Menawhile the company also sells PEI coated stuff. It's interesting to see the differences at their homepage.
Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.
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