I'm newbie and need help for my project 3D Printer Dual Extruder.

I have the following components for my project 3D printer

1. dual extruder MK8 with two fans
2. ALU Heatbed 300x300mm 300W external dimensions 320x320 mm
3. power supply 12V 20A Arduino mega256, RepRap Smart Graphics Contoller 12864, Ramps 1.4 and Ramps 1.40 dual fan controller
4. power supply 12V 30A for ALU Heatbed
5. SSR-40 DD reley for Alu Heatbed

If possible Ramps 1.4 D9 direct connect to input SSR-40 DD 3-32V

Need help what should change in the Marlins program for the upper specification

Best regards,

Ivica Lacmanovic

Quote
Iaco
Need help what should change in the Marlins program for the upper specification

What upper specification?

I'm replace in Marlin following

configuration.h
===========

// 35 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD 34

// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 11
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 11
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 11

// This defines the number of extruders
#define EXTRUDERS 2

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR 1
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define Z_HOME_DIR 1

// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 300
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 300
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 500
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

//LCD and SD support
// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PC
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

If this OK or may be replace others.

What I need replace for Ramps 1.40 Exterder Dual Fan

Maybe the attached file will help

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/31/2016 09:16AM by Lymphomaniac1.

I am assuming you want to hook up your bed heater to the SSR-40DD. This is very simple. I put together a very simple schematic which is attached. After wiring your SSR-40DD to your bed heater and the heater terminals on your RAMPS Controller, make sure that your PID is turned off in your firmware. DO NOT HOOK UP YOUR SSR-40DD TO YOUR CERAMIC HEATER IN YOUR HOTEND. If you do, you will not get the benefits of the PID settings in the hotend. PID settings are optional in the bed heater. Also make sure you are working with a SSR-40DD and not a SR-40DA. The DD annotation means that the controlling element (The RAMPS board) is inputting Direct Current and the load (heater) is running on Direct Current. The DA annotation means that the controlling element (The RAMPS board) is inputting Direct Current and the load (heater) is running on Alternating Current. A SSR-40DA will not work in the system you described, but works in my system where my Keenovo silicone heater runs off of 110VAC. For Safety sake make sure all terminals on the SSR-40DD are taped over with electrical tape. You may also want to mount your SSR-40DD on a heat sink (http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Aluminum-Solid-Dissipation-10A-40A/dp/B00ARBA02A/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1464877343&sr=8-33&keywords=SSr40da+heat+sink).

Stuart

PID works fine when using a SSR.

Using a cheap DC-DC SSR can cause a problem due to the high resistance they have. You won't get the full 12vcd or 24vdc going to the bed heater.

The SSR-40DD is not suitable for this application. It will generate a lot of heat, requiring a large heatsink and a fan, and drop between 1.5 and 2V, which will reduce the heating power by 25 to 30%. Printers larger than 200mm x 200mm should always use 24V bed heaters or mains voltage bed heaters, to keep the bed heater current reasonable. It's not impossible to use a 12V 30A bed heater, but it is tricky because of the size of the cables you need, and you need a very good SSR.

Another issue you will face is that the 5V regulator on the Arduino cannot safely provide enough current to drive a RAMPS and a graphical LCD. At best, the 5V regulator will get very hot and probably fail early. But you will quite likely find that the combinatuin only works when the USB cable is connected so as to provide additional 5V power. You will find one or two new threads a week on these forums from people who experience this problem.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/02/2016 01:33PM by dc42.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

DC42:

Let's do the math. The heater draws 300W. 12V X 40A = 480 VA or W. A SSR-40DD should handle 300W.

laco has to deal with what he has, a 300W bed heater (I hope it is rated for 12V if he has a 12V power supply), a 12V power supply, and a SSR-40DD. He may get a drop in voltage, but it is what he has and so his heat bed may take a little longer to heat up. When I built my printer, I used a 110VAC bed heater rated at 280W and a SSR-40DA. I think working with the mains power works much better in that my bed heats up a lot faster than when I used a DC setup.

If laco wants to invest in a better system, I would recommend that he picks up a AC bed heater compatible with the mains power where he lives along with a SSR-40DA. I would also suggest that the heater have a hole in the center so that he can attach the thermistor directly to the aluminum build plate for better readings. Keenovo (www.keenovo.com) sells silicone heaters for every occasion either on their website or on ebay. If he can not find exactly what you want, they will make it for him. They have quality 12VDC, 24VDC, 110VAC and 220VAC silicone heaters.

Stuart

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/03/2016 10:09PM by Lymphomaniac1.

Tanks Lymphomaniac1 on your Marlin code.

I'm Settings in Configuration.h followings:

#define EXTRUDERS 2

#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EEB

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 11
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 11
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 11

#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS 300
#define Y_MAX_POS 300
#define Z_MAX_POS 500

#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

After compile on GLCD have Heather 1 and 2, Heatbad 0, Fan, Fr 100%.

Button Menue not work. ???????????

What I need replace for RAMPS 1.4 Extender Controller for Dual Fans

Laco

That is not what DC42 is saying. Those cheap SSRs have an ON resistance of approximately 0.1 Ohm which equates to 10% of the power you run through them being lost as heat in the BJT transistor used in the SSR. I have done my own tests with a 12V 20A setup and the temperature at the heatsink was as high as 80C when running that setup to 110C (ABS temps).

Do yourself a favor and either get a good SSR like this [www.auberins.com] or look into a higher power MOSFET switch with lower on resistance.

As a reference running that same setup the Auber with 0.006 Ohms resistance was only about 30C under the same scenario without heatsink. I would not trust the cheap SSR at those heat levels it is going to burn up regardless of the heatsink.

Quote
Lymphomaniac1
DC42:

Let's do the math. The heater draws 300W. 12V X 40A = 480 VA or W. A SSR-40DD should handle 300W.

laco has to deal with what he has, a 300W bed heater (I hope it is rated for 12V if he has a 12V power supply), a 12V power supply, and a SSR-40DD. He may get a drop in voltage, but it is what he has and so his heat bed may take a little longer to heat up. When I built my printer, I used a 110VAC bed heater rated at 280W and a SSR-40DA. I think working with the mains power works much better in that my bed heats up a lot faster than when I used a DC setup.

If laco wants to invest in a better system, I would recommend that he picks up a AC bed heater compatible with the mains power where he lives along with a SSR-40DA. I would also suggest that the heater have a hole in the center so that he can attach the thermistor directly to the aluminum build plate for better readings. Keenovo (www.keenovo.com) sells silicone heaters for every occasion either on their website or on ebay. If he can not find exactly what you want, they will make it for him. They have quality 12VDC, 24VDC, 110VAC and 220VAC silicone heaters.

Stuart

I'm contact manufacturer Alu Heatbed 300x300 300W 12/24V Lankeda 3d and answer me for Alu heatbed may be use power supply 12V 30A.
Other power supply 12V 20A use for Ramps 1.40