An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500
Posted by the_digital_dentist
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 22, 2016 12:51PM |
I've got a question for you guys.
Are they Bearings around the nozzle shaft?
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
Are they Bearings around the nozzle shaft?
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 22, 2016 03:31PM |
Just getting used to Fusion 360 so I've been making hot ends.
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 22, 2016 03:36PM |
No bearing on the nozzle, just cooling holes
Quote
Rlewisrlou666
I've got a question for you guys.
[attachment 85205 HeatsinkShroud.png]
Are they Bearings around the nozzle shaft?
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 22, 2016 03:48PM |
On the technical Drawing look like bearings. Lol
I worked it out after I posted and forgot to change my post.
I worked it out after I posted and forgot to change my post.
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fg dude
No bearing on the nozzle, just cooling holes
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/22/2016 03:49PM by Rlewisrlou666.
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 22, 2016 04:14PM |
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 22, 2016 09:43PM |
Wow, first time I've looked at this thread, looks like an awesome V2 to do. Nice one Digital Dentist. Ya got some nice machines and it looks awesome.
Quite frankly I don't have the skills, I think, or if I did try it, it would take me a lot longer than somebody like you.
My creations tend to look a bit Frankenstein, to be honest. Functional but usually a bit ugly in the finishing department.
Quite frankly I don't have the skills, I think, or if I did try it, it would take me a lot longer than somebody like you.
My creations tend to look a bit Frankenstein, to be honest. Functional but usually a bit ugly in the finishing department.
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 22, 2016 10:31PM |
Are any of you guys rebuilding the Cubex printers replacing the extruder assembly and living in the UK who wouldn't mind parting with it?
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 23, 2016 02:32AM |
I spent some time figuring out some of the wiring. There are 3 cables coming from the extruder carriage to the controller board. Two go directly to the extruders and carry 4 wires for the motors, 2 for the extruder heater, and 2 for the thermistor. The third cable, 8 wires, connects to the main PCB that has some MOSFETS, a uC, and ultimately to the print cooling fans, extruder fans, and the LEDs. I don't need the MOSFETs and uC (which monitors the filament sensors, etc.), so I made my own board to connect the LEDs and extruder fans to 12V and to connect the print cooling fans to a MOSFET on the the controller board for speed control via PWM. I decided to use a 24V power supply and don't want to toast the extruder fans and LEDs by connecting them to 24V, so I added a tiny buck converter to drop the voltage to 12V. I think the print cooling fans will be OK if I limit the duty cycle via the PWM settings in the firmware.
The new circuit board is about the same size and fits where the original board used to mount.
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
The new circuit board is about the same size and fits where the original board used to mount.
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 23, 2016 11:48AM |
As you can tell, I like reusing the existing cables as much as possible. Wiring a 3D printer, especially the extruder carriage, is my least favorite part of a build.
I may eventually want to heat the enclosure to allow printing ABS. That means it would be good to get the controller and power supply out of the heated area. I'm planning to feed filament from above and will need some sort of rack to hang spools, so I came up with the idea in the pictures, below. I can make a box to fit on top of the acrylic enclosure that has a rack to hold two spools of filament (just a piece of PVC pipe and a couple printed ABS hangers). The power supply and controller board mount on the back of the box with exposure to room air. The controller is mounted right at the end of the drag chain ensuring plenty of cable length to easily connect to the board. The box would be made of 1" PIR foam board, and held in place using magnets, or other less-prone-to-dislocation attachments. The whole box, just the top cover, or both could hinge up to load filament and access the extruder carriage for service. The controller board and power supply can be covered with a metal screen to keep out curious fingers.
An LCD controller could be added to the left side of the box to operate the machine without a computer connection.
Better still, put the controller and power supply on the left side and mount the LCD on the front of the box- still plenty of cable length for the controller board connections:
Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2016 12:11PM by the_digital_dentist.
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
I may eventually want to heat the enclosure to allow printing ABS. That means it would be good to get the controller and power supply out of the heated area. I'm planning to feed filament from above and will need some sort of rack to hang spools, so I came up with the idea in the pictures, below. I can make a box to fit on top of the acrylic enclosure that has a rack to hold two spools of filament (just a piece of PVC pipe and a couple printed ABS hangers). The power supply and controller board mount on the back of the box with exposure to room air. The controller is mounted right at the end of the drag chain ensuring plenty of cable length to easily connect to the board. The box would be made of 1" PIR foam board, and held in place using magnets, or other less-prone-to-dislocation attachments. The whole box, just the top cover, or both could hinge up to load filament and access the extruder carriage for service. The controller board and power supply can be covered with a metal screen to keep out curious fingers.
An LCD controller could be added to the left side of the box to operate the machine without a computer connection.
Better still, put the controller and power supply on the left side and mount the LCD on the front of the box- still plenty of cable length for the controller board connections:
Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2016 12:11PM by the_digital_dentist.
Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 23, 2016 12:08PM |
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Rlewisrlou666
Are any of you guys rebuilding the Cubex printers replacing the extruder assembly and living in the UK who wouldn't mind parting with it?
It's an expensive job from within the UK on ebay... CubeX printers not cheap here, freight charges very high.
You can get cheap Delta kits though on ebay. They look a little crude, would need some plastic parts redoing with stronger materials, similar rebuilding.
They wouldn't be as tough as a CoreXY design like CubeX (? think thats right) as the frames are aluminium, not steel... but I guess in theory they might print faster, as they have 3 NEMAS for X-Y movement as opposed to just 2 in a CoreXY.
Meh. Youve probably had quite enough of "theory" off me...
That would be quite a job in itself, only thing similar is the price (about $300 for the kit, $200 on the upgrades).
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 23, 2016 12:21PM |
@Dragonfire - Thanks for the help buddy. I'm only looking for the Filament monitor board from the extruder as Digital Dentist said.
@the_digital_dentist - Is this the right board?
Loads of spares on here [www.3dsystems.com]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2016 12:22PM by Rlewisrlou666.
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
@the_digital_dentist - Is this the right board?
Loads of spares on here [www.3dsystems.com]
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2016 12:22PM by Rlewisrlou666.
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 23, 2016 01:05PM |
If it sends a signal to the LCD couldn't you capture that signal and use it to pause the print?
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 24, 2016 01:10AM |
Nice work DD that's coming along nicely.
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
Out of the box thinking is easier when you never fitted in the box to begin with.
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Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 October 24, 2016 07:22AM |
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Dancook
I don't plan to use the original extruders, but I honestly can't see a reason to keep them... I was trying to find a way to use them as bowens.
Why not just clamp a bowden fitting where the hotend used to go? Seems pretty straightforward to me.
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the_digital_dentist
As you can tell, I like reusing the existing cables as much as possible.
Are you planing on using the stock hotend wires? They seem a little thin to me, and I'm contemplating replacing them. Thought, to be fair, they could be fine and I might just be paranoid from my recent experience with my heated bed wiring.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2016 07:28AM by TheJones.
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