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Gutting A Replicator 2x, Need help picking components

Posted by DaGameFace 
Gutting A Replicator 2x, Need help picking components
September 22, 2016 10:03AM
So, due to makerbot being, well, makerbot.. I am ditching their platform altogether and turning the printer into a reprap. Think I want a better board than arduino/ramps for the 2x, but only have experience with it and Rambo. I've heard great things about smoothie but really don't know what to buy. Would like it to run marlin though. Am not going to reuse the power brick either, and want a fairly small one.

So, need help choosing two components:
1. Controller board.
2. PSU (something small like this but a good one)
Oh, and I want new stepper cables if you know a good place to get those. On the makebot they are 4 pin steppers.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


If you need some help, or don't understand what I just said, feel free to send me a PM anytime

Printer: Prusa i3, 2 E3D v6 Hotends, Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 with a Bypassed 5V Regulator, 400w Insignia ATX PSU, Custom Designed Bowden Extruders
Re: Gutting A Replicator 2x, Need help picking components
September 22, 2016 11:06AM
Marlin restricts your choice a lot, because the most advanced boards (Duet, Duet WiFi, Smoothieboard and its clones) run purpose-written firmwares that take advantage of the 32-bit processors, larger RAM space and Ethernet interfaces that these boards provide.

Many people (including me) use Chinese LED power supplies similar to the one you linked to. If you want a better quality one, MeanWell power supplies are popular.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/22/2016 11:10AM by dc42.



Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Re: Gutting A Replicator 2x, Need help picking components
September 22, 2016 06:00PM
Hmm, Alright I guess Marlin is not a requirement. The only reason I said a good LED is because the only other one I had before couldn't actually output the correct volts even when the potentiometer was maxed.
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