New cheap printer

Hi all. Looking at adding a new printer to my collection
Been looking at these

[m.ebay.co.uk]

[m.ebay.co.uk]

[m.ebay.co.uk]

I know there are some printed parts but would be looking at uprgading to metal parts.

Pros and cons please

Its early and I don't get why you speaking of adding to collection already, then go out buy a cheap printer, when £140-240 be a damn good start of a solid corexy/hbot frame that last forever, personally I pimp the hell out of the other printers possible move onto 32 bit boards, build an enclosure so on, I wouldn't go building a farm on cheap parts either.

I have a MK2 i3. I wanted another but could not afford it so I have just built a replica using almost all the same parts. Cost was still almost the cost of a MK2 so I was a bit stupid there and should have just got another MK2. I will however be purchasing another MK2 direct from them but my point being if you want reliability you have to pay for it. Even when I made the MK2 replica I never went for any cheap parts because I know the reliability is poor.
You will spend more on upgrading a cheap printer then what you will be buying a half decent printer if that makes any sense. They are cheap though I will give you that but things like the hot end will just cause agro after a while. You need e3d V6 or similar. Motor are motors at the end of the day but there not LDO motors either

I picked up this one and it arrived last night. Opened it up and found that it was well packed. There were directions but they were mostly a parts listing and not assembly directions. No problem, the Geeetech Wiki has assembly instructions in PDF form so I downloaded it.

I did take a look at the acrylic parts and they seem to be cut well with no sharp edges. Mine came with the all metal X-axis as it is the Pro B. The heated bed is already soldered for 12V, the hot end is assembled. The power supply provided is a 12V 15A with a default setting of 220V.

While I haven't assembled it just yet as I am working on rebuilding my Prusa I3 Steel I am looking forward to testing it. Oh, it came with a RAMPS all-in-one board which is the Geeetech GT 2650.

Definitely keep us updated. It would be good to know how good they are

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audiobull
Definitely keep us updated. It would be good to know how good they are

I'll post a link to it on youtube if I get creative otherwise I'll just update here. (Trying to decide if I want to expose myself to the world.)

Just post here The worlds a scary place

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Viper97
I picked up this one and it arrived last night. Opened it up and found that it was well packed. There were directions but they were mostly a parts listing and not assembly directions. No problem, the Geeetech Wiki has assembly instructions in PDF form so I downloaded it.

I did take a look at the acrylic parts and they seem to be cut well with no sharp edges. Mine came with the all metal X-axis as it is the Pro B. The heated bed is already soldered for 12V, the hot end is assembled. The power supply provided is a 12V 15A with a default setting of 220V.

While I haven't assembled it just yet as I am working on rebuilding my Prusa I3 Steel I am looking forward to testing it. Oh, it came with a RAMPS all-in-one board which is the Geeetech GT 2650.

Whitch one did you get and from where and the cost of you dont mind me asking

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Suggy

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Viper97
I picked up this one and it arrived last night. Opened it up and found that it was well packed. There were directions but they were mostly a parts listing and not assembly directions. No problem, the Geeetech Wiki has assembly instructions in PDF form so I downloaded it.

I did take a look at the acrylic parts and they seem to be cut well with no sharp edges. Mine came with the all metal X-axis as it is the Pro B. The heated bed is already soldered for 12V, the hot end is assembled. The power supply provided is a 12V 15A with a default setting of 220V.

While I haven't assembled it just yet as I am working on rebuilding my Prusa I3 Steel I am looking forward to testing it. Oh, it came with a RAMPS all-in-one board which is the Geeetech GT 2650.

Whitch one did you get and from where and the cost of you dont mind me asking

Mines the Geeetech I3 Pro B with the steel x-axis. Total cost to me was $248.00 shipped from the west coast to a west coast address and purchased from eBay.

Check this thread: [forums.reprap.org]

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Intresting read but its not so cheap after all the upgrades. Still worth considering

All you really have to do is swap out the controller board. The rest is optional.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Antone know the difference between the pro b and the pro x?

If you can afford the $485 the Wilson II is really nice. Just built one and it is a sweet setup.

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Suggy
Antone know the difference between the pro b and the pro x?

The pro b has metal x carriages, while the x has acrylic carriages and SCS8LUU bearings. Oh and an aluminum heatbed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/09/2016 06:49AM by Viper97.

Just seen this on geeeteck's website
[www.geeetech.com]
I like the sound of this one. Anyone any experience with this?

I believe it is identical in build to mine with a few exceptions.

1. Dual extruders running through a Cyclops clone
2. Frame design where the LCD fits is different.
3. The Y-carriage is different. (Mine is almost solid)
4. The heat bed is two pieces, the heater and an aluminum plate.
5. Linear bearing holder is screwed in rather than zip-tied like mine.
6. Looks like they used a 30 amp 12V power supply to power the extruder and motor.

Otherwise the build instructions (with a few changes of the pictures to reflect that model) are identical to my build instructions.

Ok thanks.
I can get the ProB for £177 inc p&p.
The M201 is around £100 more.
Just wondering if its worth the extra, are there any known problems to be aware off

Hi, I've bought a Geeetech pro b a couple of months ago. The printer is very good for the price. Wasn't expecting that kind of quality.
A part from the acrilic frame, the only two plastic parts are the y axis belt carriage holder (printed in pla) and the extruder filament loader.
Also spares and upgrades are really easy to find.

However, if you're planning to print abs this printer will need a lot of upgrading and tweaking.
Out of the box is only good for pla and other easy-to-print filaments.

Here's what I've put together:

Geeetech Acrylic Prusa I3 Pro B first impressions

Frame:
Acrylic, yes, it is 8mm as measured by my Vernier caliper. Biggest problem was removing the backing from the acrylic. On my printer all the acrylic parts fit well, there was no need for adjustment, filing or cursing (which given my propensity to curse was refreshing). Everything fit well and assembled easily.

Interestingly enough, the front and rear Y-axis is made of two acrylic pieces making those areas a 16mm thick build (including the area where the 10MM screw rods are) which makes for a less prone to crack arrangement.
The only area that is truly 8mm is the actual frame where the LCD and motor mounts are located.

Attaching hardware:
It appears the nuts, bolts, screw etc. are a generic set of packages where this hardware seems to be a once size fits all the versions of the Geeetech Prusa I3 Pro A, B, C and X as well as the 201. They probably only change out the actual acrylic pieces, and power supply along with a few other parts to make the packing line faster.
Smooth rods – Contrary to the instructions the rods are not marked, so selecting the proper length was based on my previous experience with a Prusa I3 rework. Once I established the correct length for the Y-axis (the longest set of rods) assembly began.

Heat bed – It came pre-soldered with the thermistor in place. Not to mention a slab of borosilicate glass ready for installation. Package included 4 binder clips to hold the glass in place.

Power Supply – 12V power supply rated at 15 amps, it’s a tad under powered for what I envision and so I’m replacing it with a12v 30A power supply.

Heat bed warming time (five iterations of testing with a 30 amp PS):

60c – 1 Min 15 secs (average)
90c – 4 Min 05 secs (average)
110c – 9 Min 43 secs (average)

Calibration:

It was pretty much dialed in on my machine. I did the usual tests with my caliper to measure movements and filament extrusion. I have not made any changes in Marlin regarding calibration.

I must run off and do errands I'll be printing a hollow calibration cube when I return.

In the cheap domain there are a few interesting vertical Z on aliexpress, for instance corexy: (there is also one a bit more expensive with linear rails)

[www.aliexpress.com]

or ultimaker gantry:

[www.aliexpress.com]

While these probably aren't the greatest, they have a large build volume, don't have the messy format of a moving bed, and being 20x20 extrusion based easy to mod.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/11/2016 11:18AM by orea.