120v Silicone Bed Heater FTW!

Upgraded from 12v to a 120v 750W 300x300 Silicone Heater
and wow my heated bed goes from cold to 80 degrees in under 2 min

---

Makerparts.ca
Your Canadian source for V-Slot Extrusion, CNC and 3D Printing Parts and Accessories.
we are proud to be an official Openbuilds distributor.

There's nothing like adequate power!

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Yeah I'd second that, I've gone from bad 12v PCB bed, to better 12v PCB bed, to 24v PCB bed to 500w 240v silicone heater over the course of various printers. Not going back to DC any time soon.

---

Simon Khoury

Co-founder of [www.precisionpiezo.co.uk] Accurate, repeatable, versatile Z-Probes
Published:Inventions

When you have adequate heater power, the bed heats up fast and you don't need to insulate the underside which increases cool-down time. It's a win-win situation. How many of those do you run into with 3D printing?

Now get rid of the thermal insulating glass plate on top, use a cast aluminum tooling plate on a 3 point leveling system, and you have the ultimate in 3D print bed performance.

Don't forget to turn on PID temperature control!

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

One thing you have to be careful of with high powered heaters is build plate warp. I think Marlin, by default, uses bang-bang control of the heat bed rather than PID control. Because of this, you will invariably get temperature overshoot, which is proportional to the amount of excess power you have (peak power / avg power needed). Depenging on your build plate/heat bed construction, this temp cycling can warp the plate enough to create noticable ridges in the print surface.

I've got an 800w, 350mm sq heater that was overshooting about 5 deg C. It is stuck on an aluminum plate and I print on the other side without glass. That 5 deg variation warped the plate enough to create visible ridges in my prints as the plate cyclically heated and cooled. I now run the 120v heater thru a high power dimmer that I crank up while heating up the bed, but then turn down to the bare minimum while printing. At the lower power setting, I get less than 1 deg variation, and my ridging diappeared.

(I think I tried switching to PID control, but had trouble getting that working. There may have been issues with trying to drive the SSR with a chopped input.)

I am using PID for the Bed. with a 6MM Alum Bed (Not Cast)

---

Makerparts.ca
Your Canadian source for V-Slot Extrusion, CNC and 3D Printing Parts and Accessories.
we are proud to be an official Openbuilds distributor.

Quote
LoboCNC
(I think I tried switching to PID control, but had trouble getting that working. There may have been issues with trying to drive the SSR with a chopped input.)

SSRs can switch fast enough to keep up with PID, but if you have problems, you can always reduce the PID max switching frequency. Marlin defaults to 20 Hz IRIC, but I used to run at 8 Hz max when I was switching AC power into a transformer to run the heater in my printer. No problems. You do need to run the PID autotune on it once it is wired and the config parameters are set.

A lot of plate warping problems go away with 3 point leveling and PID temperature control.

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Quote
makerparts
Upgraded from 12v to a 120v 750W 300x300 Silicone Heater
and wow my heated bed goes from cold to 80 degrees in under 2 min

Install a thermal fuse, that bed can get very hot.

Thats a good idea, can you suggest a model/part for the thermal fuse.

---

Makerparts.ca
Your Canadian source for V-Slot Extrusion, CNC and 3D Printing Parts and Accessories.
we are proud to be an official Openbuilds distributor.

These are the one I got: [www.ebay.com]

Do these simply get wired in line with the silicone heater? How do they detect the temperture? Of the bed?

---

Makerparts.ca
Your Canadian source for V-Slot Extrusion, CNC and 3D Printing Parts and Accessories.
we are proud to be an official Openbuilds distributor.

Wired inline with one of the bed's power leads, and I tape it to the heater in about the center. They detect the temp by being in contact with the heater. If it ever trips, you have to replace it.

I search today for a 120V (110V) silicone circular 300mm looking for around 350W and find nothing.. they all 500W for that size.

@makerparts did you manage to find a supplier in canada or you went to china ?

If you're really concerned about safety, tape is not the way to attach the fuse to the bed. If the tape lets go, the fuse won't do its job. Use a screw to clamp it to the bed. Even a bulldog clip would be better than tape.

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

So how can i hook one of these thermal fuses to a E3D v6

---

Makerparts.ca
Your Canadian source for V-Slot Extrusion, CNC and 3D Printing Parts and Accessories.
we are proud to be an official Openbuilds distributor.

You can't get thermal fuses that are rated for the temperature we use on the heater block, so mount it on the heatsink.

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Hi guys
I have a 24V 270W silicone bed with 24V 350W power supply
I go to 90 degree in 40 minutes...........a biblic time!
I'd like to solve this issue but I don't understand how I can power a 120V bed!!
Can someone suggest me the right components?
I have a fuse on my electronic board about 15A
It's not clear for me how can I proceed, without burning risks.....

How large/thick is your printer's bed and what is it made of?

Your power supply should be able to get that heater going just fine. Have you measured the voltage at the heater when the power is on? How are you switching power to it? Maybe there is some voltage drop in the switch and/or the wires to the heater.

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Double check that your power supply is set to the proper voltage.
I accidentally had my power supply on 220v but it should have been set to 110v

when it was set incorrectly. my previous 12v silicone heater didnt have enough juice to warm past 50 degrees and it was slow.
flip the switch and its fine

worth a check.

---

Makerparts.ca
Your Canadian source for V-Slot Extrusion, CNC and 3D Printing Parts and Accessories.
we are proud to be an official Openbuilds distributor.

silicone bed is glued to an aluminium plate with 3mm thickness
I have 24V measured at the heater when powered
I switch power by repetier host

Quote
makerparts
my previous 12v silicone heater didnt have enough juice to warm past 50 degrees and it was slow.
flip the switch and its fine

worth a check.

This is the same for me, for the first 50 degrees heat is acceptable
In any case I find it difficult to exceed 90 degrees

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2016 12:07PM by mdcompositi.

Quote
makerparts

flip the switch and its fine

worth a check.

what do you mean?

Power supply has a switch to flip from a input voltage of 220 or 110.
is yours set correctly?

---

Makerparts.ca
Your Canadian source for V-Slot Extrusion, CNC and 3D Printing Parts and Accessories.
we are proud to be an official Openbuilds distributor.

I have two power supply
One about 12V for hotends and fans and a second 24V for heated bed
the first have on external a switch for 110/220V
the second of 24V don't have externally any switch
this is heated bed power supply
[www.ebay.it]

Quote
mdcompositi
Hi guys
I have a 24V 270W silicone bed with 24V 350W power supply
I go to 90 degree in 40 minutes...........a biblic time!
I'd like to solve this issue but I don't understand how I can power a 120V bed!!
Can someone suggest me the right components?
I have a fuse on my electronic board about 15A
It's not clear for me how can I proceed, without burning risks.....

You can use a circuit like this:

For 12V output, replace the resistor 220R to 680R, and 24V replace to 1.5K
My silicone bed 220v 300W hit 115 degrees in 3 minutes!

for a 120v Heated bed. you connect it from the mains 120v power into a SSR (Solid State relay) that is controlled via PID on your 3d controller.

---

Makerparts.ca
Your Canadian source for V-Slot Extrusion, CNC and 3D Printing Parts and Accessories.
we are proud to be an official Openbuilds distributor.

How do i set to so the Left and right eye images are stacked vertically instead of being side by side?

---

Makerparts.ca
Your Canadian source for V-Slot Extrusion, CNC and 3D Printing Parts and Accessories.
we are proud to be an official Openbuilds distributor.

Quote
ECJ

Quote
mdcompositi
Hi guys
I have a 24V 270W silicone bed with 24V 350W power supply
I go to 90 degree in 40 minutes...........a biblic time!
I'd like to solve this issue but I don't understand how I can power a 120V bed!!
Can someone suggest me the right components?
I have a fuse on my electronic board about 15A
It's not clear for me how can I proceed, without burning risks.....

You can use a circuit like this:

triac_drive.gif

For 12V output, replace the resistor 220R to 680R, and 24V replace to 1.5K
My silicone bed 220v 300W hit 115 degrees in 3 minutes!

It's difficult for me To understand this electronic scheme
Needs a customized circuit board?
I prefer for example a picture...

Quote
mdcompositi
It's difficult for me To understand this electronic scheme
Needs a customized circuit board?
I prefer for example a picture...

Wow!!
thank you for pic!
......and I can use my 24V-270W silicone bed with 24V-350W power supply?