Use of linear guides

Hello All,

I am developing a new printer in which I am using Marlin firmware. My Bed will be moving in Z direction.
Can I use independent linear rails for X and Y axis instead of routing belt in Core XY fashion.

Regards,

ZPRO

Sure. A lot of commercial printers use that type of arrangement. It just means that you have to move the X axis motor along with the X axis guide rail(s).

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I heart it's difficult to achieve enough rigidity for this type of H bot compared to say coreXY, so it may be more of a challenge to get it right.

He didn't say anything about H-bot, just that he wants the extruder to move in X and Y and that he doesn't want to use CoreXY belt routing. I don't know how recent ones are laid out, but older Makerbots have used that type of mechanism, as have Solidoodle, 3DS CubeX and CubePro machines, etc. I have a CubeX machine that uses two motors to drive the Y axis (instead of turning a shaft that drives two belt loops). I haven't had any problems with it (yet) - keeping my fingers crossed...

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

The recent E3D BigBox used a similar Cartesian arrangement where the X motor moves with the Y axis. Most CoreXY designs can easily be modified to run Cartesian instead. BCN3D sigma use it with dual X axis quite nicely.

To add: Why not try a CoreXY and if it isn't for you, switch to cartesian?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/27/2017 08:00AM by Origamib.

Or there's this: Inside-H drive

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LoboCNC
Or there's this: Inside-H drive

So what does this do? Where does the filament go?
presume your going to filp it, but cant see how you will feed it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/27/2017 05:44PM by MechaBits.

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MechaBits

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LoboCNC
Or there's this: Inside-H drive

So what does this do? Where does the filament go?
presume your going to filp it, but cant see how you will feed it.

Filament is fed in at a right-angle. This particular printer prints upside-down, but you could also configure it to print right-side-up.

Here's a video of the full printer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdju_6XEHZ4

and there's a more complete discussion of it here:

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,665310,page=1

Sorry forgot about that one, yeah cool to have that large print hanging upside down, from just 2 rods and using just wire, seems quite large too, is it 300x300 for bed

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MechaBits
Sorry forgot about that one, yeah cool to have that large print hanging upside down, from just 2 rods and using just wire, seems quite large too, is it 300x300 for bed

Actually, 350 x 350mm. I used 400mm rails.

Considering the amount of plastic parts in there(even though its a minimal setup), and the size, it looks like a fairly good print, So is print just on kapton or a build surface, is that example pla?

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MechaBits
Considering the amount of plastic parts in there(even though its a minimal setup), and the size, it looks like a fairly good print, So is print just on kapton or a build surface, is that example pla?

I've been printing mostly with PLA on kapton tape, for more than 6 months now without problems. Note that all the important bits (the high-speed X-Y mechanism) are metal and stuck to a granite base. None of the plastic parts need to be that rigid.

I remember when you were first building it there was a concern about how failed prints might make a mess over the hot-end - the inverted spaghetti monster problem. How has that worked out, have you had any print failures to deal with?

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JamesK
I remember when you were first building it there was a concern about how failed prints might make a mess over the hot-end - the inverted spaghetti monster problem. How has that worked out, have you had any print failures to deal with?

I've only had a couple of spaghetti monster failures and they've been no better or worse than with my other printers. I did add a silicone shield over the heater block (the nozzle pokes up through it) to keep spaghetti from melting to the heater block. (I learned my lesson on my Makergear M2 when I woke up in the morning to find the entire heater block encased in a solid ball of plastic.) After a lot of printing with this printer, I've come to the conclusion that printing upside-down is not really an issue at all. The main advantage is that you can put all the moving stuff on the ground rather than suspending it in the air.