Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available.

I will try it again when I get a working sensor. I just purchased this board, so is it an older version?

Which board are you referring to? There have been no major changes to the Orion PCB, only cosmetic.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Hi there! You've got a new message
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Try clearing your cache and trying again. I've not had an email from you, are you using the correct address? precisionpiezo@yahoo.com Idris
Kind regards Simon Khoury Owner Precision Piezo [www.precisionpiezo.co.uk]

To respond to this message, reply to this email.

Craig Anderson


Jul 26 (1 day ago)

to Precision

I was able to get it to work with Chrome. I ordered a replacement Orion PCB and will be returning the one I have now. It is faulty.

It may be appropriate to put a small drop of wd40 onto the pot, this is noted elsewhere in the instructions. I have done this as I was testing various size murata piezo disks. One point to consider is the various resonant frequencies in the xyz directions of the various printers out there and select an appropriate size disk based on its resonant frequency. In other words, if your printer rumbles on at 40 Hz, then the largest one is not appropriate. Of course it is possible to detune the electronics to compensate. Also one cannot rely on the murata specs as the resonance will change from specs if the disk is drilled. The smallest disk resonates aca 10Khz, my choice is the 20mm d disk. It is important to have the FW configured correctly. I am

I've looked at a lot of the designs here for underbed mounting. Most seem to involve some sort of lever to act when bed mounting springs are compressed, and then need some sort of adjustment for the normal, uncompressed state.

Now, I understand that the best outcome is for the finished print is for the bed to actually be level with regard to the X and Y axis of the printer, but the whole point of an auto-level system is that this isn't always possible, and some minor variations are probably just not important enough to panic about. It is probably more important that the printer be able to compensate for the actual lie of the print bed.

In keeping with this idea, I decided to set up a mounting system that puts the piezo discs between the bed platform and the LM8UU bearings which will hold a bed on a moving platform. I designed another set for a bed that moves in the Z axis.

Anyway, feedback appreciated. It's on Thingiverse.

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MBot3D Printer
MakerBot clone Kit from Amazon
Added heated bed.

Leadscrew self-built printer (in progress)
Duet Wifi, Precision Piezo parts

Hi,

yesterday I did a lot of G29 mesh grid, but only in 4 corners to improve my bed level.
When I do 4 times in a row a G29, I got never, and not almost the same values on the same point like in the grid before.
I got differences of 2 mm.

I could need help... Is there anything with the carriage or it is a problem with piezo? I have the PCB v1.2

Can you try doing several G30 single probes in the same place and let me know what the results are.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Precision piezo is extremely high performance.
However, since it is very sensitive, handling methods that have not been a problem until then will cause performance degradation.
Here are some handling deficiencies I experienced.
I hope this will be help someone as caution of handling Precision piezo.

1. Restraint of hot end heater and sensor wiring
Wiring is connected to the hot end heater and sensor, but if this wiring is strongly restrained, the piezo sensor can not detect the pressure the nozzle touched the table.
The wiring of the heater and the sensor needs to have a margin.

2. Vibration of throat cooling fan
Piezo sensor is attached to the opposite side of the throat following nozzle, hot end.
The throat has a cooling fan, which prevents the heat of the hot end from being transmitted to the piezo sensor side.
If the blade of the cooling fan is scratched or the bearing deteriorates, the fan vibrates.
This vibration prevents the piezo sensor from detecting the pressure that the nozzle entered the piezo sensor and the nozzle touched the table.
It is necessary to use a cooling fan without vibration.
Alternatively, it is advisable to place the vibration suppression gel between the cooling fan and the throat.

3. Pushing the Teflon tube too far
Send filaments with Teflon tube from extruder to hot end.
This Teflon tube is fixed to the extruder so that it can not be pulled out with a one-touch connector.
After that, it passed through the piezo sensor.
The one-touch connector fixes the Teflon tube only in one direction, but if it pushes in excessively, restrains the hot end and hinders the piezo sensor from detecting the pressure that the nozzle contacted the table.

Sorry my poor english!
I love this Precision Piezo, and I'll hope my experience helps someone!

One solution depending on your controller might be to use a controllable fan output for hotend fan and then you can turn the fan off during probing. If you are probing cold or at an intermediate temperature such as 130 deg the heat creep (depending on your hotend) should be little or no problem.

---

Simon Khoury

Co-founder of [www.precisionpiezo.co.uk] Accurate, repeatable, versatile Z-Probes
Published:Inventions

Quote
DjDemonD
One solution depending on your controller might be to use a controllable fan output for hotend fan and then you can turn the fan off during probing. If you are probing cold or at an intermediate temperature such as 130 deg the heat creep (depending on your hotend) should be little or no problem.

Mr.Simon, thank you good advice!
But I'm using UBL system on Marlin, and it takes about 15 minutes for bed leveling without G code control, then I can't start/stop cooling fan.
Of course, it is only during bed leveling and it is irrelevant during printing. However, the piezo sensor is sensitive to the influence of the temperature change and I don't want to measure at different temperature.
What I'm trying now is to move the fixed location of the cooling fan from the hotend side to the fixed side. In that case, the influence of the vibration of the cooling fan will be reduced.

Quote
YMita

Quote
DjDemonD
One solution depending on your controller might be to use a controllable fan output for hotend fan and then you can turn the fan off during probing. If you are probing cold or at an intermediate temperature such as 130 deg the heat creep (depending on your hotend) should be little or no problem.

Mr.Simon, thank you good advice!
But I'm using UBL system on Marlin, and it takes about 15 minutes for bed leveling without G code control, then I can't start/stop cooling fan.
Of course, it is only during bed leveling and it is irrelevant during printing. However, the piezo sensor is sensitive to the influence of the temperature change and I don't want to measure at different temperature.
What I'm trying now is to move the fixed location of the cooling fan from the hotend side to the fixed side. In that case, the influence of the vibration of the cooling fan will be reduced.

How many points does it probe during the bed levelling. Try reducing it to 9 points (3x3). Unless your bed is very irregular 9 is sufficient.

I reduce my fan from 100% to 75% during probing. It reduces the vibration enough to not interfere with probing.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/12/2018 03:31AM by tekkydave.

I use a Duet WiFi which runs the RepRapFirmware (RRF). The G29 behaviour is different for RRF to Marlin. I run the bed mesh levelling once at the start of each session. This stores the levelling map on the SD card. Then I just run G29 S1 in the slicer start gcode to load it at the start of each print. The fan only has to be reduced during the G28 homing which takes seconds. I'm not sure if Marlin has this G29 functionality (yet?).

Quote
tekkydave
How many points does it probe during the bed levelling. Try reducing it to 9 points (3x3). Unless your bed is very irregular 9 is sufficient.

I reduce my fan from 100% to 75% during probing. It reduces the vibration enough to not interfere with probing.
I use a Duet WiFi which runs the RepRapFirmware (RRF). The G29 behaviour is different for RRF to Marlin. I run the bed mesh levelling once at the start of each session. This stores the levelling map on the SD card. Then I just run G29 S1 in the slicer start gcode to load it at the start of each print. The fan only has to be reduced during the G28 homing which takes seconds. I'm not sure if Marlin has this G29 functionality (yet?).

Mr.tekkydave, thank you advice.
I output to a table of borosilicate glass at nozzle diameter of 0.2 mm, layer height of 0.1 mm. Therefore, bed leveling measures 49 points of 7 x 7.
Since it is a table of borosilicate glass, the error is not large, but it is necessary to print the first layer at 0.1 mm.

Sorry, I don't know about RRF but "I run the bed mesh levelling once at the start of each session." is means run bed leveling each time you start printing?
"I just run G29 S1 in the slicer start gcode to load it at the start of each print." may be not runs each time your start printing, correct?

Marlin Unify Bed Leveling (UBL) has G29. Use "G29 P1 T" for measuring bed, "G29 Sx" (x=1 to 4) save measured mesh points to EEPROM, "G29 Lx" (x=1 to 4) load measured mesh points, "G29 A" activate bed leveling.
Before printing, only need "G28", "G29 Lx", "G29 A".
Of course need to run "G29 P1 T" after accidentally crash z axis or touch bed leveler nuts. But using same thickness borosilicate glass, changing between two, no need to run UBL mesh leveling.

Also UBL has some good function, like report mesh height with "G29 T".
Or test mark print with "G26 Bxx Hxx Fxx Lxx Sxx" B:bed temp, H:hotend temp, F:filament dia, L:layer height, S:nozzle dia.

See this link : MarlinDocumentation/_features/unified_bed_leveling

I run the following via a macro ONCE after I turn the printer on:

T0 ; Select Tool 0
M104 S130 ; Set Tool 0 temperature to 130 - no wait
M190 S60 ; Set Bed temperature to 60 - wait
M106 P1 S0.75 ; Hotend Fan to 75% (reduce vibration for probing)
M290 R0 S0 ; Clear Baby-stepping
G28 ; Home All Axes
G29 S2 ; Clear Mesh Compensation Values
G29 ; Run Mesh Compensation
G1 X150 Y140 Z30 F6000 ; Move to centre and move bed down

This will save the mesh compensation values in a file (heightmap.csv).

Then each print has the following inserted at the start of the gcode by Slic3r:

M106 P0 S0 ; Start with the part cooling fan off
M290 R0 S0 ; clear Babystepping
M106 P1 S0.75 ; Hotend Fan to 75% (reduce vibration for probing)
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 S1 ; Load Mesh Compensation Settings from file
M106 P1 S1 ; Hotend Fan to 100%
G1 Z5 F100 ; Raise Nozzle to 5mm

This has the effect of loading the previously saved mesh compensation values from heightmap.csv which is instant.

The fan is only running at 75% for as long as it takes to home the axes.

I dont believe the above G29 commands (G29 S2, G29, G29 S1) will work on Marlin as the G29 gcode implementation is different.
The same operations are possible as in the last post but the parameters are different and saving is to EPROM not SD card.
I used Marlin up till about a year ago when I switched to the Duet. I wouldnt ever go back now.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/12/2018 11:45AM by tekkydave.

Quote
tekkydave
I dont believe the above G29 commands (G29 S2, G29, G29 S1) will work on Marlin as the G29 gcode implementation is different.
The same operations are possible as in the last post but the parameters are different and saving is to EPROM not SD card.
I used Marlin up till about a year ago when I switched to the Duet. I wouldnt ever go back now.

Marlin has three types of bed leveling, Mesh Bed Leveling, Automatic Bed Leveling, Unified Bed Leveling.
This three uses G29, and switch by modify Configuration.h and compile.
I think RRF bed leveling are not same, but looks like Mesh Bed Leveling of Marlin.

Yes, you are correct. When I was using RAMPS & Marlin I always used the Mesh Bed Levelling.
The Duet/RRF Mesh compensation is very similar to Marlin's Mesh Bed Levelling.
My bed is 300x300x6mm cast aluminium with 3mm borosilicate glass on top. It is almost flat and only needs probing in the 4 corners. Any more than that would be overkill I think. I tend to use babystepping to adjust the final z height once the print has started.

Mr.tekkydave,
I did not know "baby stepping". I will modify Marlin and use it! THank you!

Got A8 with e3d v6 and need help with two things:

1. Can anyone share part of Marlin code for Piezo20 work?? Got Marlin 1.1.8 with Hall Sensor but need change to Piezo20 and don't know what to change in code.
2. Wha X mount you use for Piezo20 and A8 (or other Prusa i3 clone)?? Found couple in thingiverse for example [www.thingiverse.com] but Piezo20 mount is too wide.

Anyone can help?

Quote
krakow2000
Got A8 with e3d v6 and need help with two things:

1. Can anyone share part of Marlin code for Piezo20 work?? Got Marlin 1.1.8 with Hall Sensor but need change to Piezo20 and don't know what to change in code.
2. Wha X mount you use for Piezo20 and A8 (or other Prusa i3 clone)?? Found couple in thingiverse for example [www.thingiverse.com] but Piezo20 mount is too wide.

Anyone can help?

My Geeetech I3X configure.h (but 1.1.9) and holder for e3d v6 in Autodesk 360 Fusion format.
The mount holes for I3X carriage, but I think you can modify.
You can see the images of holder in few messages before attached photo.

Sorry, try to attached stl format, but kicked!

Quote
YMita
Sorry, try to attached stl format, but kicked!

Upload to thinggiverse [www.thingiverse.com]

Quote
YMita

Quote
krakow2000
Got A8 with e3d v6 and need help with two things:

1. Can anyone share part of Marlin code for Piezo20 work?? Got Marlin 1.1.8 with Hall Sensor but need change to Piezo20 and don't know what to change in code.
2. Wha X mount you use for Piezo20 and A8 (or other Prusa i3 clone)?? Found couple in thingiverse for example [www.thingiverse.com] but Piezo20 mount is too wide.

Anyone can help?

My Geeetech I3X configure.h (but 1.1.9) and holder for e3d v6 in Autodesk 360 Fusion format.
The mount holes for I3X carriage, but I think you can modify.
You can see the images of holder in few messages before attached photo.

Sorry, try to attached stl format, but kicked!

Ty !!! Now i can mount my piezo . Hole in ur project fit perfect to A8 mount, ty again

Quote
krakow2000
Ty !!! Now i can mount my piezo . Hole in ur project fit perfect to A8 mount, ty again

My pleasure.

Hi,
I have the orion module on my cr10 clone and cannot get it to give me repeatable results. Obviously I am doing something wrong. One time it will print nicely, the next it will plough into the bed and then the next it prints in mid air. The switch on touching the bed seems reliable now but I have no idea what to try now. Any pointers most appreciated.

Bob

Hi Bob,

What firmware and controller are you using?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Marlin-Kimbra on a ruramps board. I think its the offset that is confusing me. If the nozzle is hitting the bed should the offset be positive or negative? I did as suggested to someone else and did a series of g30 in the same spot and it was accurate to within 0.04 so the only thing it can really be is the offset

Bob

OH NOES! Problem.

I modeled a new part for the Orion, the one below the disc-board, attaching it to the heatsink. I was hoping to mount my entire extruder from this part but it seems to make the whole extruder "too stiff" to trigger the unit upon touching the soft'ish PEI bed. Even a gentle touch SIDEWAYS triggers it but i can tap it preeetty hard on the nozzle before it triggers.

My entire extruder was a bit too wobbly so i decided to mount it from lower, just above the heatsink...

What should i do?

I think, but I'm not sure, that in marlin a positive offset will increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed. If you do a series of G30 probes do you get consistent results?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

swatti:

Can you post a picture of your new mount?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.