Precision Piezo Z-probe Now available.

Thanks for your reply, roughly measuring it seems like the spacing is 23x37mm thereabouts, I'll probably modify your STL to make it fit.

Am planning to use one of the remixes of your dual 30mm fan shrouds : [www.thingiverse.com]

Just ordered a PCB, looking forward to installing it on my kossel

Quote
Moriquendi
I haven't been able to find dimensions for the effector of that printer but the spacing of the holes on the screwmount top piece is 23mmx12.5mm.

You will need to find another way of mounting your hotend fan if you're not using one that clips to the heatsink. Same for the part fan. Unfortunately the 40x10mm fans that we used to sell are no longer available.

Idris

Hi, I'm looking at adapting your excellent heated bed piezo system, into a higher temp environment... the chamber would peak at 65-70C, passively heated with a 110C aluminum plate bed.

Can you enlighten me on what difficulty I would have with this temp?

It appears that accuracy would, at best, be worse, would the system still work somewhat?

Has any sourcing been attempted for higher temp Piezo discs? Thanks much!

Piezo disks should give a useable output up to about 80°C although some "no-name" piezos have not been too good. Murata piezos are more reliable.

A pdf on [pdfs.semanticscholar.org] shows the effect of temperature (about page 7 I think), time and multiple probe strikes on a disk.

Your mileage may vary, this development after all, and many boojums wait to jump on the unwary.

Mike

Thanks so much for your reply.

I'll move forward with testing in that case...

The printer I am testing this on, has four attachment points (typical cartesian), and it doesn't seem there's a US distributor for your products ala carte (only with PC.

I'll get the PCB from filastruder but I need to source the Murata Piezos individually. Can you provide a mfg part #?

Thank you!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/04/2020 10:04AM by joshmurrah.

The 27mm diameter ones are 7BB-27-4LO while the 20mm ones are 7BB-20-6LO. The LO at the end signifies that they have leads attached. It is probably better NOT to try to solder on leads yourself as this needs a special low temperature alloy.

Mike

Hello

is there somthing new for mounting piezo orion on Ender 5 with Micro Swiss all metal hotend ?

Hello!

After some time now, I decided to finally install my Precision Piezo Orion on the CR-10S. I still got the old, blue PCB. Sadly, nothing seems to work.
V+ to gnd has 5V before plugging the cables in. Afterwards, I can only measure about 1.55V from V+ to GND. Furthermore, nothing seems to change when I turn the potentiometer. Can you give me any support with this ist there anything I can measure to find out, if the PCB is defective and I need a new one?

Best Regards

Hi Koka,

Can you PM or email me your order number please.

Sounds dumb but are you sure you have the wiring correct? If you connect the signal line from the CR10 to the V+ pin on the Orion it will not have the current to power the board and the voltage will drop, please can you verify that the you have the correct pins on the CR10. The signal pin will will read 5v when nothing is connected because of the pull up resistor.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Hey!

Thanks for the quick response. I got it working now. Used the wrong 5V on the board.

Best Regards

Hello.

I’m somewhat new to 3D printing and have an Artillery X1 that I bought the universal piezo kit for. I designed and printed a mount for the disk that fits between some brackets on the carriage. With a relatively light tap the led changes from red to blue. My issue is that when trying to home, it collides with the bed and pushes it down about 2.5 to 3mm. The led seems to go blue as soon as it taps the bed but it doesn’t stop immediately. If I tap nozzle on its way down it seems to work but I can’t repeat the tap before it errors out. I’m assuming because I can’t repeat the taps at the same height. I’m running Marlin 2.? and I imagine my issue is in there somewhere but I don’t know what else to try. Any help out there for this issue?

Hello,

I got a Tronxy X5SA Pro and built a new print head that includes an Orion V2 piezo. I'm trying to get marlin to work with it, but there is no way to get it to work. Both do pretty much the same thing:

[reprap.org]:
[docs.pyroballpcbs.com]

However, I tried all possible combinations of pull-ups of Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING and Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING. Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING and Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING set to true and the pull-ups disabled works in 5 percent of the cases. In all other cases, the print head moves to the middle of the bed and the bed immediately starts moving down 10 mm. I think that the signal is instantly triggered and therefore the bed never moves up.

I had to insert a DC/DC step down converter since the board outputs 24 V to the z stop sensor.

Has anyone any idea?

Best

Jan

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2021 03:44AM by janth.

Hello,

I have not been able to tune my V2.75. I see two LEDs: RED (label S) and GREEN(label T). When initially powered, prior to making any adjustments to VR2, the RED LED was illuminated. I then turned VR2 counterclockwise until the red LED turned off and the green LED illuminated. I did not expect the RED LED to turn off. I then turned VR2 clockwise until the GREEN LED just turned off and the RED LED illuminated. I believe this is the correct procedure. I cannot get it to trigger reliably regardless of how I perform this procedure. I have adjusted the stiffness of the assembly from very loose to very stiff with unchanging results.

I have not touched VR1. Resistance measured across P1+/- is 486 kOhms. I get the same measurement across VR1 potentiometer and P1-. The supply voltage was measured to be 4.76V.

Am I doing this correctly? Is there an updated video? The manual references a BLUE LED. The only video I've found has a BLUE trigger LED. I have never seen a BLUE LED illuminated on the board I have. The manual appears to reference a different (older?) model also.

I am running this using a RAMPS 1.4 over a MEGA2560 with a BMG and E3D V6.

I appreciate any help.

Thanks,

Ken

@KenZ

Where did you buy your board? I have never manufactured boards with green LEDs so all boards with green LEDs are counterfeit.

@Janth,

The digital output of the Orion 2 behaves exactly the same way as a normal, mechanical, endstop. Please check that you have the cable connected to the set of pins marked "D"

I have not used Marlin for a number of years but I believe it has an option called " Use Z-probe as Z-endstop " or something similar, this should be enabled.

Pullups must be enabled for the signal pin connected to the Orion. The Orion can only pull the signal to 0v, just like a mechanical switch.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

@Moriquendi
Thanks for the reply. The cable is connected to the D side of the pin header. I ended up enabling the pull-ups and Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN. I further set ENDSTOP_NOISE_THRESHOLD to 7 (highest value), DELAY_BEFORE_PROBING to 2000 and enabled PROBING_STEPPERS_OFF and PROBING_FANS_OFF. Then I set all max accelerations to 2 mm*s^-2 and z-jerk to 0.01. To have a strong impact, I raised the z top speed to 100 mm*s^-1. Most times, the bed starts going up to probe (before it started going down instantaneously). The probe is very very sensitive, the most gentle tab anywhere on the printed, Fram makes the blue led flicker. However, when the bed hits the nozzle even at that high speed, it does not trigger. It's sensitive to vibration of the power supply's fan, but not to the bed hitting it. I then tried losen and tighten the 4 screws, tried to rasp a little from the the bump below the pcbs to have it a little less pretensioned... I guess the firmware is working fine and so is thee electrical connection. I'm gonna take the printer to work and check Orion's behavior with an oscilloscope. I'll report back.

I designed the print head and hotend mount myself since I could not find anything for the Tronxy X5SA Pro that includes aa remote extruder, and V6 hotend and a Orion v2 module. Maybe I did something wrong. I left space for the Orion to "bend" a little upwards in the middle (circle with 17 mm diameter). The middle ring on the heat sing clamp below the pcb was 0.5 mm higher than the four screw spacers, but as I said, I rasped it a little.

I feel as if the Orion module is more sensitive to impacts on the side of the heater block than from below. Are the piezos in a bridge configuration? I thought maybe they are in a series instead of parallel or something... it behaves so weird.

If there is anyone with any idea or experience? Anything I could try to get an idea of what's going on? For the past two weeks, I've been searching... but I expected it to be more like plug, adjust and play.

Best

Jan

@Moriquendi

Thanks for the reply. I purchased this from Amazon in the US (link below). It will be returned promptly.

I see now that the PCB is not labeled Precision Piezo. The packaging is, however.

I have submitted an order with you. Thanks for the response.

[www.amazon.com]

Ken

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/01/2021 07:25PM by KenZ.

@janth,

Higher probing speeds don't really help, I probe at 2mm/s.

The Orion is sensitive to any lack of rigidity in the carriage or mount, they must be as rigid as possible. Also, the design of the hotend mount is very critical, I suggest you look at the parts I have designed here and see whether they can be made to fir your printer.

@KenZ,

My genuine products are also available from Filastruder if that is more convenient for you.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

@Moriquendi

I placed the order with you in England and then saw your message about Filastruder. It is more convenient for me to purchase it from your distributor here. Can you cancel the order I place with you?

Thanks,

Ken

@Ken

I've cancelled your order and issued a refund.

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

@Moriquendi

I received my GENUINE V2.85 from Filastruder today. I installed it and tuned it per the videos. This device actually does trigger. Unfortunately, it presses the bed down about 3mm to do it regardless of tuning. The assembly is pretty loose now. So loose that I think print quality will be affected. Triggering is pretty sensitive to lateral movement. Axial movement not so much. The flat on the VR2 adjuster is close to the long side of the PCB, opposite the VR2 label. I have not touched VR1, yet.

Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Ken

Hello again

I checked the signal line to see, if there’s noise on it. And there is, like there’s a lot. But it’s just on S, not V+. I had no more time to have a deeper look at where it comes from, so maybe anyone here has any idea. As mentioned, I added a DC/DC converter to get V+ from 24 down to 5 V (like here). V+ (after the stepper) has almost no noise. However, I put the signal line as far away as possible but it did not make any difference yet. Steppers should be off while probing (according to my marlin config)

A photo of the signal is attached.

I’m thankful for any ideas

Jan

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2021 01:24AM by janth.

@KenZ

I presume you're using the old Piezo20 design? Are you using a 20mm or 27mm piezo disk? You probably need to tighten the assembly screws to reduce wobble.

@Janith
What voltage are you reading on the sig line? Do you have pullups enabled? Please ensure that you have connected to the digital output and not the analog one.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Hello

Pull-ups are enabled and I use the D-output. The high voltage is 4.3-4.5 V and low is 0-0.1 V. That looks fine. But I don’t know what causes the ripples.

Best

Jan

Looks like EMI to me, I expect you would see similar noise on any wire of similar length connected to a high impedance input. Is it causing false triggers?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

@Moriquendi

yes, it looks like EMI. Since the spikes go below 1.2 V I guess that's the reason for the instant false triggers. I only checked the V+ wire which has no such noise. However, this wire is way shorter since there is a DC/DC step down converter in-between and it isn't connected to a high impedance input. That's something I'm gonna check. What makes me struggle is that the noise stops when I disconnect the Orion module. To my understanding, the signal port has a high impedance when not being triggered and therefore should behave similarly as if the wires were unplugged from the Orion module.

In that case it may be that the EMI is causing the Orion to trigger. Do the false triggers still happen if you tune the Orion to be slightly less sensitive?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

Hi, i am trying to repair a Precision Piezo Orion v2.0 Sensor.

Can anyone give the schematics of this board? Or can someone tell me which types are the transitors and the diode?

Thanks a lot.

Cu kami

@ Kami,

The transistors are BSS138, which diode have you damaged?

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

@ Moriquendi

I think the Orion does not trigger, but these spikes make the controller think it triggered. But I have been in home office for the past couple of week so I could not use my company's tools to figure out what causes the spikes. If anyone sees the spikes and maybe had a similar issue, please let me know what caused it!

@ Moriquendi

Hi,

i want to know this four types of Transitors (1-4). Are they all the same?

And the diode number 5?.

Have you got a schematic?

Thanks a lot.

Cu kami

@Kami

The Orion is not open source so the schematic is not made public.

Two of the "transistors" are not transistors at all but diode arrays BAV99. The other Diode is an RB521S

@janth

If the emi is coupled to the Orion before the amplifier and comparator stage it could be causing the Orion to trigger but too quickly for the LED to light up or be noticed. Have a look at the output of the A signal pin and see what appears there.

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.