Need help with print banding
Posted by gadittri
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Need help with print banding May 19, 2017 08:34PM |
Hi all,
I have been battling this issue for a long time and can't figure it out. I have a custom built Core XY with a 5mm pitch ball screw for my Z axis and a 1.9 degree stepper with a 2:1 reduction. It appears repeatable about every 12-13 layers at 2.5 layer height. My bed and extruder temps are very stable and only varying by .2 degree or so. I have tried different rolls of filament but all have been Micro Center's Inland filament. The layers appear very well aligned and feels smooth to the touch. It doesn't matter what model I print because they all show this signature. Forgot to mention that I use Simplify 3D.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2017 08:37PM by gadittri.
I have been battling this issue for a long time and can't figure it out. I have a custom built Core XY with a 5mm pitch ball screw for my Z axis and a 1.9 degree stepper with a 2:1 reduction. It appears repeatable about every 12-13 layers at 2.5 layer height. My bed and extruder temps are very stable and only varying by .2 degree or so. I have tried different rolls of filament but all have been Micro Center's Inland filament. The layers appear very well aligned and feels smooth to the touch. It doesn't matter what model I print because they all show this signature. Forgot to mention that I use Simplify 3D.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2017 08:37PM by gadittri.
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Re: Need help with print banding May 21, 2017 10:59PM |
I made sure the filament did not bind throughout the print but I am convinced its my Z axis for it to be so repeatable. I haven't printed a thin wall model in a long time so I know my tuning needs some work. This was printed at 240 with Micro Center's Inland Natural PETG. Temp recommendations are from 230-250 on the spool. I have a Kuroda 12-2 ball screw on the way to try out.
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Re: Need help with print banding May 22, 2017 07:10AM |
Here's my cube. Print started at 245°C and 35mm/s, but as you can see the corners aren't perfect. I had to slow down to 22mm/s and then experimented with temps. But 240°C seems to give best transparency.
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Re: Need help with print banding May 22, 2017 11:24PM |
I tightened my belts up and slowed my print speed from 50 to 30. I printed a single wall cylinder in vase mode which had no starts or stops between layers. This will be a good before and after test piece when I replace my ball screw this weekend. The layers look pretty good but can actually feel the slight imperfections. I also took some pictures of my setup as requested. My printer weighs est. 50lbs and is a beast to move around but holds its position if moved (do not have to re-level)
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Re: Need help with print banding May 22, 2017 11:36PM |
Here are some more pictures. Check out my simple auto level solution. I usually never use it except to manually check the level at 3 points. The magnet holds it up out of the way until I need to use it.
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Re: Need help with print banding May 23, 2017 11:40PM |
I already started making mods in preparation for a different ball screw to install so unable to run anymore tests. I held up the print from last night and the bands line up pretty well with my current ball screw. I don't know why this would be causing this because it rolls fairly smoothly. Now what do I use to cut a 21mm hole in 11ga stainless without mangling it to hell? I ordered some step bits but am skeptical about them for cutting stainless.
Thanks all, I will post an after picture with my used ball screw from ebay.
Thanks all, I will post an after picture with my used ball screw from ebay.
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Re: Need help with print banding May 24, 2017 01:44PM |
Yes it is frustrating because I have so much money in this. I could have bought a cheaper mid grade printer and had better quality but I wouldn't have learned as much. What is more frustrating is the layers used to look really good but don't know if switching to petg filament made it more profound than before. I used to print abs only and never really noticed this I guess.
I use only two rails for the z axis which is mounted on the same side as the single ball screw. They are high quality nsk brand linear rails and it is surprising very rigid. I then use a 3 point leveling to attach the print bed to the Z sub frame (20x40 extrusions).
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2017 02:08PM by gadittri.
I use only two rails for the z axis which is mounted on the same side as the single ball screw. They are high quality nsk brand linear rails and it is surprising very rigid. I then use a 3 point leveling to attach the print bed to the Z sub frame (20x40 extrusions).
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2017 02:08PM by gadittri.
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