RepRapish DLP Resin 3D Printer

I wanted to share my DLP 3D printer design. I call it TriceraDLP, about 70% of its parts are 3D printable on FDM printers, all of the files are available for download and the rest of the BOM can be seen in the build guide. My goals were to make it partly 3D printable , to have a unique look to it, to have an easy-to-make disposable flex-vat (a vat with a clear Teflon FEP film bottom), and most importantly to make good 3D prints.

I've tested it to print reliably at 0.05mm and 0.1mm layer heights. The motor can move by increments of .005mm, but I don't want to give false hope to people looking for super high resolution. The 3D printer is for sale as a kit (limited amounts for now), but please print and source it yourself! Below is a video of one of the prototypes, some pics and the download links for the STL files and build guide. It uses an authentic Arduino Uno r3, and Misumi linear bearings. This has been a 2-year project and have spent a lot of time meticulously printing each part and making prototypes for each design version. I had a great time designing and building it, please check it out! If you decide to print your own feel free to message me with any questions. Soon I will make a kit available that only includes the non-3D printed parts.




Imgur Album

Video

STL Files

Build Guide

Specs

Looks great. Ive noticed many DLP printers use a wiper on the vat but yours doesn't, is this why the printer is constantly re-dipping the part? What are the advantages/disadvantages of this?

Do you plan to make an enclosure for this? I assume the enclosure also helps extend the life of the resin in the VAT by protecting it from UV exposure as well as having obvious safety benefits (am I right in thinking this?)

What slicer do people use for DLP these days?

Lots of questions I know, but long been interested in DLP tech

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/09/2017 06:05PM by Origamib.

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Origamib
Looks great. Ive noticed many DLP printers use a wiper on the vat but yours doesn't, is this why the printer is constantly re-dipping the part? What are the advantages/disadvantages of this?

Do you plan to make an enclosure for this? I assume the enclosure also helps extend the life of the resin in the VAT by protecting it from UV exposure as well as having obvious safety benefits (am I right in thinking this?)

What slicer do people use for DLP these days?

Lots of questions I know, but long been interested in DLP tech

The wiper mechanism you mentioned is for a Top-Down style DLP printer (the projector on the top pointing down) and is to make a fresh layer of floating resin. This is a Bottom-Up DLP printer. The reason is bobs up and down in the video is because the printer is releasing the 3D print from the vat surface each time a new layer is cured. So, if our print layer height was .05mm the build plate moves up 2 or 3 mm (settings you choose, also affecting print time) to release the print from the build surface and moves back down to the proper height to let a .05mm layer cure and attach to the rest of the 3D print. The vat surface is a flexible teflon FEP surface that allows it to release easily. A big problem with DLP printers was getting each new layer to release smoothly, it would often stick and destroy the print. There have been some fixes like a tilting vat, non-stick silicone covered vats, and flex-vats (this type). I did not invent the flex-vat by any means, but I made it easy to assemble and replace the teflon sheets. The teflon sheets are consumables and need to be replaced occasionally.

I am considering building an acrylic enclosure, but I have had no problem getting great prints while printing in average room brightness. About the resin, it is not stored in the vat in the 3D printer. The vat is removed from the printer and usually I use a funnel to pour the resin back in the bottle that it came in before storing it. Then I put the flex vat in a ziploc bag and store the flex vat and the resin in a dark place so it doesn't cure.

And here's a short list of slicers you can use! http://www.triceradlp.com/downloads

Thanks for sharing your files!

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Printers: Heavily redesigned TwoUp with E3D V6 and Robo3D R1+ with Chimera/Cyclops

Hi fswallride,
That looks like a great printer and your documentation is excellent. I will be looking at it as a possible next large project.
Can I ask how it compares with FDM printers: Strengths, weaknesses etc., things like smallest feature size, delamination strength, constraints on whether a model will be printable and what percentage of prints fail.

Mike

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leadinglights
Hi fswallride,
That looks like a great printer and your documentation is excellent. I will be looking at it as a possible next large project.
Can I ask how it compares with FDM printers: Strengths, weaknesses etc., things like smallest feature size, delamination strength, constraints on whether a model will be printable and what percentage of prints fail.

Mike

Thanks for your interest!

Those factors depend on the type of resin that you use, and the resolution of the projector you cure the resin with. Overhangs will need supports just like FDM printers and some slicers can implement them. Failure depends on the user. Just like FDM reprap printers, there is some tinkering and experimenting involved. There is a lot of info on buildyourownsla.com, its an interesting forum!

Can the mirror be replaced with a pocket LED projector?

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GRAYWOLF
Can the mirror be replaced with a pocket LED projector?

I haven't tried to cure resin with an LED projector, but I have read about people who have tried and failed.

... you'll need enough UV in your beam to start curing -- or a resin, that will harden with blue or green light ...

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Viktor
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