e3dv6 clogged

e3dv6 clogged yet again.

Is this just a crappy hotend?

I cleaned the hot end with the guitar string method and tried to push filament through, but it doesn't go, or at least, it requires a very large amount of force.

This is a brand new e3dv6 I bought to replace my old one that had the exact same issue.

Pretty pissed about this.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/31/2018 01:36AM by foul_owl.

If it didnt comes from [e3d-online.com]

Its a cheap clone and you get what you pay for.

I bought it from there.

What about your filament?

what are you printing?

Its is from a good respectable source?

What temperature are you printing at?

Is the cooling fins fan working?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/31/2018 03:24AM by Dust.

Run a retract/stringing test, these types like a short retract, mine is set to about 2mm, NOT the default 4.5mm

Temp, filament type, retract distance and retract speed play a factor. Also preload may be a factor if you are using a newer slicer.

Suitable working numbers will be in a narrow band.

I have used one hot end for almost 3 years without a clog. It wasn't made my E3D though. I have a new delta and have the e3dv6 hot end mounted. I will see how things go. I almost bought another Prometheus but decided to try and e3d. I hope it wasn't a mistake.

I tried changing the nozzle today, and I noticed that the heat break somehow was screwed in *way* too much. I am unsure how this happened, as I am the only one using this, it's locked up in my house, and I followed the assembly instructions to the god damn letter.

I did notice that the heater block is free to rotate around the z axis, perhaps this has contributed in some way.

I am absolutely positive I followed the instructions correctly.

The V6 design doesn't really allow for reliable assembly because there's no way to apply sufficient torque to keep it from coming loose in the heat sink. The heat break tube is so thin and fragile that you can't apply much torque when you put it together. The whole hot-end has no anti rotation features, and there's no lock screw to keep it from rotating in the extruder. As a result, the whole thing will rotate and the heater block will hit your print cooling fan nozzle and melt it. There's also nothing to keep the hot-end fan from rotating around the heatsink either.

I recently bought a Chinese made aluminum Titan extruder and XCR3D hotend via ali-express. The extruder required some small modification, but after that it's been very good. The hot end has a metal fan bracket screwed securely to the heatsink, and the heatbreak is held in the heatsink with a set screw, so it can't rotate. The titan has a lock screw that stops the hot-end from rotating. More info here and here. I've been running them for a couple months now without any issues. The fan that came with the hot end started out very quiet, but after operating at 45C for a few hours when printing ABS, it's now just a normal noise level fan.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]