Need Help - Customized 3d Printer

Need Help - Customized 3d Printer

Hi all,

Actually i need your kind support, this is my first post in this forum.

i have made a bigger frame for 3d printer and i want to increase the hotbed size.

all the parts from my old printer (Ender-3) i have used all the parts from it and i want to change the hotbed size from 220x220 to 400x400 but i dont have enough experience in the modifications in the printers.


1- Is there any problem to change the hotbed to 400x400?
2- Is there any changes i have to do? in marlin?
3- Is there any risk regarding the power supply?
4- If i didnt change the hotbed and i put an aluminum plate above the current hotbed and i increase the heating temp. like from 60 to 90 degree as a special setting? is the printing will be ok?

Much appreicate your help and support.

Thanks
Turki

Gonna need a new heater
something like this (maintain 24v supply)

16" X 16" 400 X 400mm 24V 200W w/ 3M JSR2 Kapton Heater Heating Pad Mat

[www.amazon.com]

200W will not put too much of a strain on the 15amp Ender power supply

and a piece of 400mm x 400mm glass for the top
and a piece of something for the bottom bed

If you want it to heat up faster 120V AC heater and Solid State Relay to control it
other posts cover conversion to 120V AC beds

Quote
EzyMan

1- Is there any problem to change the hotbed to 400x400?
2- Is there any changes i have to do? in marlin?
3- Is there any risk regarding the power supply?
4- If i didnt change the hotbed and i put an aluminum plate above the current hotbed and i increase the heating temp. like from 60 to 90 degree as a special setting? is the printing will be ok?

1. Your bed will weigh more about 1.2 kG for 3mm and 2.4 kG for 6mm aluminum plate.
2. Yes, you will need to modify XMAX and YMAX. And lower jerk and acceleration.
3. You will need a bed heater at least 500-600W which will be already 110 or 220V. You will need SSR to control it from the board. Be extremely careful with power wires so you will not be electrocuted.
4. If you do this you will be able to get the temperature of the bed to 50C in about 20 min, but will not be able to get it to 90C or it will take an extremely long time (air will cool it down faster than heater will heat).

In general, I suggest: keep your Ender and build another printer instead. You are trying to save about 100$ in parts which you will be able to reuse but looking to spend close to 300$ more. If you do not know what you are doing buy another set with 400x400 bed or start building somebodies well-documented design.

Quote
cozmicray
Gonna need a new heater
something like this (maintain 24v supply)

16" X 16" 400 X 400mm 24V 200W w/ 3M JSR2 Kapton Heater Heating Pad Mat

[www.amazon.com]

200W will not put too much of a strain on the 15amp Ender power supply

and a piece of 400mm x 400mm glass for the top
and a piece of something for the bottom bed

If you want it to heat up faster 120V AC heater and Solid State Relay to control it
other posts cover conversion to 120V AC beds

Much appreciated.

I've recently upgraded my corexy 3D printer to a 350x350x6mm tooling plate bed. I've put a Keenovo 300x300mm 750W 230V silicone heater pad on it. I've ordered it with their recommended SSR. It was very easy to do. I drilled 4 mounting holes and placed it in the 3D printer frame. The SSR doesn't get hot, so it appears to handle the load easily. keenovo supplies instructions on connecting it to your controller. Basically connect one of the mains leads directly to the heater, the other lead from the heater to the SSR, from SSR to a 4A slow fuse, then from the fuse to the other mains lead. For switching on the low voltage side (T1 and T2) connect it directly to the bed output on the controller board, making sure you get the polarity correctly or nothing happens. The led on the SSR should light up when enabling bed heating.

The larger bed will be a lot heavier, you'll have to reduce printing speed and/or increase motor current if possible. The CoreXY only moves the bed on the Z axis so the weight has no impact on the print speed. It heats up to 100 degrees within 3 minutes.

The larger the bed the bigger the impact of a bed that's not level, and curvature can be worse if the bed material is cheap, and can warp when heating up. Tooling plate with good thermal stability is recommended. I've chosen EN AC 5083 Toolingplate and seems to be working well for me.

I wouldn't recommend leaving the old bed in place, it'll add to the weight and may warp your new bed. A smaller bed can't heat a larger one evenly, and won't have enough power to reach 90 degrees. 60 degrees might be difficult too.

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Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]

Thanks to all of you guys.
much appreciated

This site will tell you how long it will take to heat up your bed given bed size, heater power and target temperature.

I think you'll find 200W much too low for a bed that size unless you only print PLA and TPU.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Once you start modifying, I think you may find that the parts from the old printer will be less useful than you thought. Cheap printers are made from parts that are barely adequate for their task. Increasing the bed size by almost 4x is going to take its toll. The power supply won't handle the bed heater current, and neither will the mosfet that switches power on the controller board, or even the PCB traces. The guide rails are probably too thin and flexible to go to 400mm. If you get bigger rails you have to get bigger bearings. In the end, if you manage to get it to work, it won't work well and you'll be out a lot of money replacing one set of crappy parts with another.

For a bed that size you're much better off using a machine architecture that moves the bed in the Z axis, and use a line powered heater.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]