3d printer fried stuff

Hi everyone,
I am a newbie to 3d printing, I tried to make a 3d printer but unfortunately I fried 2 mega and 2 Ramps 1.4 and I wonder if I can save the megas since an integrated burnt out. And I don't know how to check if a Ramps 1.4 burnt or not, and how to revolver that?

"integrated burn out" isn't that what "Boy racers" do?

Depends what died, and if you can solder... and if your time is worth nothing...

If its the main chip... not unless you can do surface mount soldering.

if its just the voltage regulator, (small black device, 3 pins and a tab out the other side, near the USB connector) only average soldering skills are required

if its the usb/serial converter... more surface mount soldering required...

As for diagnosing.. there is a book worth of information required to test everything on a mega,..

The basics: (general overview... not definitive by any means)
if you only plug the usb in, is there 5v on the 5v pins? (no there is probably a bad short... could be lots of things)
if you only plug in a 12v into the dc jack do you still get 5v? No dead voltage regulator
if you only plug in usb and the computer can't recognize the device and 5v pin has 5v. Its a dead usb/serial converter (presuming it used to work and thus is not a operating system driver problem)
if the usb is detected correctly and you upload the arduino flash demo and it wont upload its a dead mega2560 chip
if you have dead digital IO pins or Analog Pins, its a dead mega2560 chip

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/09/2019 05:20AM by Dust.

... most usual, when connecting endstops the wrong way, the +5V-regulator wrecks - this can be replaced with some soldering skills ...

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Viktor
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Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]

thanks for the help,
it is not about 'my time worths to something or not', but it is a curiosity to learn.
the stuffs which were burnt : voltage regulator, lm258.

and is there away to figure out which part of ramps was burnt(or possibly burnt) ?

anyway, thanks

thanks,
how could this be possible? I mean the endstops have a place to fit in and I think it fits like in the picture.
is there a way i miss something ?

Quote
timur
thanks,
how could this be possible? I mean the endstops have a place to fit in and I think it fits like in the picture.
is there a way i miss something ?

That image actually looks like a Ramps 1.4a board to me instead of a normal Ramps.

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http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/

yes it is.

Quote
timur
yes it is.

It makes a small difference, but there is an error in the board's layout that might be a good idea to be aware of.

The Robotale Ramps 1.4a is discussed in this video at the timestamp:
[youtu.be]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/09/2019 09:08AM by Ohmarinus.

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http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/

Quote
timur
thanks,
how could this be possible? I mean the endstops have a place to fit in and I think it fits like in the picture.
is there a way i miss something ?

Shorting endstop normally happens when the user is using a two wire endstops. (ie a switch with wires, no pcb) They place the two wires on +5v and gnd (instead of Signal and gnd) resulting in the voltage regulator burning out

Thanks,
But i am using an endstop with 3 wires and pcb

Quote
timur
Thanks,
But I am using an end-stop with 3 wires and PCB

If this style of end-stop is accidentally plugged in wrong it too will destroy the 5 volt regulator on your Arduino.
This too will cause the end-stop to short from Power to Ground when using a three wire end-stop.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

And then there is the 4 wire endstops (not so common any more) Signal, GND, GND, +5., which people bung it on the 3 pin connector, shorting gnd to 5v..

Basically be paranoid about your end stops.

Yeah, you can already see that the 3 pins of the endstop are not in the same order as the pins on the board. Big chance for a mistake. And then you sometimes have these endstops that come with white wires that are marked with stripes...

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http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/

In Case of a short circuit due to endstop plugging in wrong direction, does the 3d printer works some time or burns immediately.
In my case, the printer worked for few minutes and then I pressed the heat option for bed and nozzle then a few seconds later, it started to smoke and burnt. (I dont know the reason, so I am trying to figure it out)
Thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/14/2019 02:53PM by timur.

Quote
timur
In Case of a short circuit due to endstop plugging in wrong direction, does the 3d printer works some time or burns immediately.
In my case, the printer worked for few minutes and then I pressed the heat option for bed and nozzle then a few seconds later, it started to smoke and burnt. (I dont know the reason, so I am trying to figure it out)
Thanks

Do you have a photo of how you wired the hotend and bed?

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http://www.marinusdebeer.nl/

here is the files.
bed-1 and bed-2 are the photos of the bed, and i got no led.
In reprap1.4 photo, the wires pointed out.
note: a motor driver seems connected in reverse order, after it burnt ı just plugged in and didnt touch again.
thanks.

Are we looking in the correct place? A typical voltage regulator, when seeing a short-circuit situation, will simply "crowbar" and shut down, not burn up.
Same-same for thermal shutdown with high, but not shorted, power bus current.

A regulator burnout condition is usually because of a bad input voltage, either negative or too high.

DLC

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2019 06:09PM by dlc60.

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Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

Quote
timur
In Case of a short circuit due to endstop plugging in wrong direction, does the 3d printer works some time or burns immediately.
In my case, the printer worked for few minutes and then I pressed the heat option for bed and nozzle then a few seconds later, it started to smoke and burnt. (I dont know the reason, so I am trying to figure it out)
Thanks

When I plugged in my end-stop backwards it did not die quickly, as I just tapped the the switch blade to test using M119, it ran for a while then the LCD displayed garbage then it died completely.
After replacing the AMS1117 it started running, until I again went brain dead and shorted it out again this time making voltage measurements while adjusting the Stepper motor V-Ref.

I found this adjustable voltage
I finally replaced the Ramps D1 with a 12volt 3amp Dc-Dc step down converter so I could power the Ramps using 24VDC and the Dc-Dc step down converter would supply the Arduino.

Then I replaced the 5 volt AMS1117 regulator with the same regulator this time set to 5volt 3amp to replace the AMS1117-5.0

The AMS1117-5.0 dies with a simple quick short this part is extremely fragile.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

The image of your controller seems to show that your bed thermistor is straddling one pin of T0 and one pin of T1

Quote
Roberts_Clif

Quote
timur
In Case of a short circuit due to endstop plugging in wrong direction, does the 3d printer works some time or burns immediately.
In my case, the printer worked for few minutes and then I pressed the heat option for bed and nozzle then a few seconds later, it started to smoke and burnt. (I dont know the reason, so I am trying to figure it out)
Thanks

When I plugged in my end-stop backwards it did not die quickly, as I just tapped the the switch blade to test using M119, it ran for a while then the LCD displayed garbage then it died completely.
After replacing the AMS1117 it started running, until I again went brain dead and shorted it out again this time making voltage measurements while adjusting the Stepper motor V-Ref.

I found this adjustable voltage
I finally replaced the Ramps D1 with a 12volt 3amp Dc-Dc step down converter so I could power the Ramps using 24VDC and the Dc-Dc step down converter would supply the Arduino.

Then I replaced the 5 volt AMS1117 regulator with the same regulator this time set to 5volt 3amp to replace the AMS1117-5.0

The AMS1117-5.0 dies with a simple quick short this part is extremely fragile.

I see your point - This part requires a special diode circuit to protect against short-circuit and even though it has thermal shutdown protection, the doc still warns about sustained high temperature use. But it IS really cheap... This part would not be my first choice.

DLC

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Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

Believe me this was not my first choice either, with bills getting higher and wadges lower it was my only choice, if I wanted a new MPCNC maybe later a better board could be acquired.
Even with repairs using the AMS1117-5.0 and then the DC-DC Step Down Buck Converter still much cheaper. An now the inadequacies of this cheaper controller are upgraded forever.

Roberts_Clif

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

Quote
Roberts_Clif
Believe me this was not my first choice either, with bills getting higher and wadges lower it was my only choice, if I wanted a new MPCNC maybe later a better board could be acquired.
Even with repairs using the AMS1117-5.0 and then the DC-DC Step Down Buck Converter still much cheaper. An now the inadequacies of this cheaper controller are upgraded forever.

Roberts_Clif

Actually, I was talking about the designer's choice of that regulator. For another couple of quarters a better one could have been designed in.

DLC

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Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3DHemera).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.

So True!! An if the specs would allow this regulator use with a 24v supply as well it would be a prefect match for our 3D Printer environment.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/16/2019 08:15PM by Roberts_Clif.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

Quote
Dust
The image of your controller seems to show that your bed thermistor is straddling one pin of T0 and one pin of T1

yeah it is kind of look like that but it doesnt.

any possibility for the problem caused from power supply unit. mentioned here : [reprap.org]

and i use a this PSU

Amper 30 A Transformer
Voltage 12 V
Operating Voltage 100 - 240V AC FULL REGULATION
Over Current Protection
Short Circuit Protection
Electrical Insulation Available
Noise Canceling Filter
AC Input Part With Cable Input
Standards CE, FC, TUV, GS, UL, FC, CCC (seen here [urun.n11.com])

thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/18/2019 05:56AM by timur.