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Printing with Raise3D Pro2

Posted by Vagulus 
Printing with Raise3D Pro2
June 03, 2020 08:03PM
Would someone who uses Slic3r to create gCode for a Pro2 please guide me through the steps. My best effort loads into the printer but does nothing. There's something I've missed. confused smiley

Thanks


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"Some people
seem to misinterpret
complexity as sophistication."
(Nicklaus Wirth)
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
June 03, 2020 10:38PM
From [3dprinting.com]

Quote

After you unpacked the 3D printer successfully and completed the initial hardware setup, you install Raise3D’s own slicer software ideaMaker. The ideaMaker installation is not difficult and also step-by-step described in the quick start guide.

The only thing you need to do now is loading the filament in the 3D printer. This is done by following the instructions on the machine control. When the filament is loaded, you can start the first print job and away you go.

...

Ones you have a model ready for printing in ideaMaker, you press ‘start’ and a new screen with your template options opens. In these templates you can adjust everything like layer height, speeds, infill options, adhesion options, etc. Here you can use Raise3D’s standard printing templates or you can make and save new templates with your own settings.

...

When you prefer to use Simplify3D as slicer software instead of ideaMaker, you will need an FFF profile of the Pro2. This profile is not yet available in Simplify3D or on their website. We have it available, let us know if you want it and we’ll send you the profile.

It sounds like, to make things simple for the end-user, they have their own printer interface, built into ideaMaker. But you can use other slicers.

Have you tried using ideaMaker? Is there a reason you want to use Slic3r? What software are you using to load the Gcode onto the printer?
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
June 03, 2020 10:57PM
I have been using ideaMaker for the past year and I am tiring of its inconsistencies. I am working on changing to Slic3r (not Simplify3D)


but it's not working for me.


----------------------------------------------

"Some people
seem to misinterpret
complexity as sophistication."
(Nicklaus Wirth)
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
June 04, 2020 05:34AM
I am getting some action from my Pro2 but after reading Slic3r gCode it thinks for about 20 minutes before doing anything then tries to print with Right Nozzle. All the Slic3r nozzle settings are set to '1' which should be the default Left Nozzle. Currently my Right Nozzle is U/S awaiting spare parts so I don't get anywhere.

I have tried changing the Slic3r Nozzle Settings to '2' but still it's the Right Nozzle that heats up and tried to print. How do I get it to print on the left?

Files are here: Link to files

Thanks


----------------------------------------------

"Some people
seem to misinterpret
complexity as sophistication."
(Nicklaus Wirth)
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
June 04, 2020 04:34PM
It would be easier for me to help you if you provide more information. If you just give me one-liners, I'll have to ask you for more information.

In G-code, indexes start from 0, so your first extruder is E0, second is E1, etc. So try changing the T1 to T0. See [reprap.org] for good information about G-codes.

So the printer itself works OK with ideaMaker? But the inconsistencies are in the way it slices? Can you share some G-code generated by ideaMaker that does work? Or, if the inconsistencies are about the way it prints, the problem may be in the printer firmware rather than ideaMaker. Do you have the latest version of the firmware installed?

Another possibility is that the problem is that you're generating G-code for the wrong firmware in Slic3r... do you know what the firmware on your printer is? Hopefully it is well-supported firmware like Marlin or Repetier. But, from the release notes, it appears that it is proprietary. In which case, you may never get Slic3r to work with it. Have you tried asking Raise3d support about using Slic3r?

The reason I mentioned Simplify3d is that whatever is in the FFF file (presumably printer configuration information) that Raise3D mentions might help you get Slic3r to work. So, even though you don't want to use Simplify3D, it might be a good idea to ask for that configuration file.

You might also want to try slicing with Cura, which is free to use, and offers some options that Slic3r doesn't.
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
June 04, 2020 09:28PM
Hi frankvdh

Sorry about any 'one-liners'. Unintentional, I assure you. My postings are my best efforts to make the issue clear but I guess the only thing to do if I am not successful is to ask for clarification.

Checking the gCode for a print (I am no expert in gCode) I found no 'T1' command. In inserted a 'T0' into the startup code and the model printed with the Left Extruder as it should. N.B.: I made sure that the 'T1' command was not countermanded further down the code.

My printer works okay with ideaMaker but it is the most puzzling piece of software I have ever come across (and I have marked University Student programs hot smiley ). I have watched the same, untouched, piece of code print the same article in one way one time and another the next. I see the printer laying down one surface in a smooth, continuous motion then lay down an identical surface slightly across the model in a series of short lines with a nozzle hop at each line. I see the printer print a large surface in a series of stripes of several lines separated from eachother then go back and fill in the gaps. This is behaviour I do not associate with a logical, digital device. I am looking for something more conventional. You mention Cura. I have it installed but it only offers a Raise3D N2 flavour of code not the Pro2 so I have been reluctant to try it. You have also written of Simplify3D
Quote

When you prefer to use Simplify3D as slicer software instead of ideaMaker, you will need an FFF profile of the Pro2. This profile is not yet available in Simplify3D or on their website. We have it available, let us know if you want it and we’ll send you the profile.
Are you recommending it and if so please send me the profile? I am not biased towards any particular slicer I just want one which works well and consistently with my Pro2.

Thanks

I do have the latest version of Pro2 firmware. I transfer the gCode to the printer on a USB Stick.


----------------------------------------------

"Some people
seem to misinterpret
complexity as sophistication."
(Nicklaus Wirth)
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
June 05, 2020 12:32AM
Quote
Vagulus
Checking the gCode for a print (I am no expert in gCode) I found no 'T1' command. In inserted a 'T0' into the startup code and the model printed with the Left Extruder as it should. N.B.: I made sure that the 'T1' command was not countermanded further down the code.

In the gcode file you shared, lines 12, 43, 48, ...
Just use a text editor (I use Notepad++) to search for T1

Quote

My printer works okay with ideaMaker but it is the most puzzling piece of software I have ever come across (and I have marked University Student programs hot smiley ).

lol... me too.

Quote

Quote

When you prefer to use Simplify3D as slicer software instead of ideaMaker, you will need an FFF profile of the Pro2. This profile is not yet available in Simplify3D or on their website. We have it available, let us know if you want it and we’ll send you the profile.
Are you recommending it and if so please send me the profile? I am not biased towards any particular slicer I just want one which works well and consistently with my Pro2.

I don't use Simplify3D so I can't recommend it, although I've heard it is good, but expensive. The text you quote above came out of the ideaMaker manual. The reason I posted it was to suggest you ask Raise3D support for the file, which will hopefully be simple text and include a statement something like "version=Repetier".

The problem with G-code is that there are a dozen different flavours. Whilst the basic commands (G0, G1 = move, G28 = home, etc) all work the same on all of them, other things don't (e.g. G29= bed probe). Your slicer needs to know what flavour to generate... I'd try asking Raise3D support. The link I posted earlier [reprap.org] is very good at explaining what each command does in each flavour.

FWIW, my experience with slicers is that Slic3r usually doesn't work as well as Cura. But sometimes it's much better. I have seen Slic3r generate faces where there are no faces in the model. But both are developing quite fast, so the bugs I saw may already be fixed.
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
June 05, 2020 12:48AM
Some positive developments.
I'll get back to you on this.


----------------------------------------------

"Some people
seem to misinterpret
complexity as sophistication."
(Nicklaus Wirth)
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
March 28, 2021 08:17PM
My apologies for not getting back to you for eighteen months. I guess I just gave up trying and stayed with ideaMaker. However, all good things come to an end. eye rolling smiley

Right now I have a problem with ideaMaker. Here is what my part should look like
Part as Designed
and here is how ideaMaker slices it
Part as Sliced
ideaMaker leaves me with an unwanted and unsupported bridge (red, arrowed). I can't find any fault with the 3dModel (which was created in FreeCAD) and I am told that the STL slices okay with Cura. I can't substantiate the Cura statement because I can't get Cura to produce gCode for my Raise3D Pro2 Plus printer. Here is the STL
STL file
should anyone like to slice it and see. (I'd appreciate hearing what happened. thumbs up)

Has anyone any positive feedback of finding a satisfactory alternative slicer for a Raise3D Pro2 Plus?

Thanks

BTW: I tried to insert the images directly using those links but Preview popped error messages. Sorry about that. sad smiley
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
April 12, 2021 11:29PM
I did try using slic3r doing 0.2 mm slices and 20% infill. No bridge generated over that area.

The gcode did contain a rather odd "Hollowish" few layers from 1.4 mm to 1.8mm. The area contained by your rogue bridge wasn't really small big enoug for much in the way of infill.

2mm also contains these outlines.

From 3.20mm up it all looks consistent. But i wouldn't trust it to print very well without 100% infill. Maybe that's the key?

Also, you might try adjusting the layer height. Ideally you want an exact multiple of the layer height to fit the total model height. For best results, adjust the model height to a consistent layer height (should multiply exactly to nozzle width).

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/12/2021 11:35PM by DragonFire.
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
April 13, 2021 12:22AM
Wow, just tried with 0.3 mm layer height and got weirdness 3.20 and up with hollow voids with solid layers above and below. 100% infill.

This model is not a single outer skin, it contains void surfaces inside for some reason.

The two problem areas are the large tall circle and the two Roman circus shaped thingies.

If I used the fix option on slic3r, the large circle weird odd hollow areas where taken care of. But, the two "Roman circus areas don't start at the base layer, so I think your model needs attention on those Roman circus shapes. As it is, it looks like they aren't connected to the base layer.

(The "fix" option converts the stl to an obj I think).
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
April 13, 2021 02:38AM
Thanks for that DragonFire.
I'll check out the 'circuses' (I like that description drinking smiley )

I have a feeling that the baseplate was extruded down (i.e. below the XY-plane) and the other bits up (i.e. above the XY-plane). Would that give the slicer problems?

Incidentally, I print with 0.8mm nozzles, 0.88 extrusion width and 0.64 layer height. (Quick and dirty - but then, I am not printing ornaments winking smiley )


----------------------------------------------

"Some people
seem to misinterpret
complexity as sophistication."
(Nicklaus Wirth)
Re: Printing with Raise3D Pro2
April 13, 2021 06:21PM
Depends on the slicing software.

It looks to me that slic3r has issues with the shapes being run into the base, it definitely would have voids in the bottom of those areas when printed.

I guess your software is having a similar issue - you wouldn't notice from a 3d render of the outside surface. You would have to go inside the model to notice them.

You might want to try just a 0.4mm layer and look at the slices, see if the bridge is gone.

It's a mistaken idea that any printer can hit any layer height you choose. This is rarely the case when the Z movement depends on rotating circular shapes precisely, pi being an irrational number and all. Things get very messy when you have imperial sized Z movements and metric sized nozzles.

EDIT: The model is 28mm tall. How can you hit 28mm with a 0.64mm layer height?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/13/2021 06:29PM by DragonFire.
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