UP printer

Hello All,

Anyone know how to make a replica of the UP printer without being sued ofcourse. Any pointers to the wiki are appreciated.

Im hitting my head on the wall every day when I see the huxley I bought from techzone, a waste of 600$.

Thanks for your replies

[www.makergear.com]

Will be shipping soon,

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repraplogphase.blogspot.com

why such a long wait.

My main thing is that I need a non-plastic design for my x carriage which can hold the adrian extruder nozzle : [www.reprap.org]

I dont have a wades, i sadly have a bowden extruder. So i have to work with what i have.

Any help is appreciated. Anyone have a wood design of an x axis carriage?

Thank you!

I use this with a adrian-style nozzle: [reprap.org] Don't know if it'll fit on a Huxley though.

Why wood? An abs version should hold up quite nicely, and there are plenty of people who can print one for you.

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-Nudel
Blog with RepRap Comic

The reason i said wood is because I noticed the threaded rods which hold up the PEEK block get really hot, thus causing the x carriage to become flexible and thus bending upon pressure.

Now I think the pressure is happening because plastic got clogged in the hot tip after cooling... how do I solve this problem?

Is there any other way of keeping the hot tip attached to the carriage so that the pressure from the bowden extruder does not push it out of the holder? I use the following huxley tip clamp shown in the right side of this picture: [www.reprap.org]

Please help. I really want to make this work...

Would you post pictures of your hot end?

Is the tip clamp printed with PLA? It would be much better if you use one made with ABS which doesn't get soft until around 100C. Also, using a smaller screw for the PEEK block (M3 vs M4 for example) is better. Stainless steel is probably better since is a poor thermal conductor compared to steel or brass.

You can also blow air using a fan or aquarium air pump if you have one to keep the tip clamp and the thermal insulation cool.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/26/2011 04:11PM by brnrd.

Ok i fixed my problem finally.

See my post for the results... [omemon.wordpress.com]

Any suggestions about skienforge to improve the print would be appreciated!!

Thanks to all of the reprapper community for your help!

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[omemon.wordpress.com]

Congratulations! Looks like there is hope for your printer yet.

You probably want to play with the retraction settings, you've got some stringing going on. Since you've got a bowden cable you might need to set them quite high. Retraction is in the dimension tab, I wouldn't suggest using Oozebane.

You may also want to play with first layer height and speed to get good adhesion. Look in bottom and raft (set number of raft and interface layers to 0, and just use the first layer speed of 0.7).

May also want to work on your flow rate or your Infill width over thickness (speed and fill respectively) as your fill looks a little sparse.

With a little tweaking I think you'll get there.

JB

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Check out my blog: AdventuresIn3-DPrinting

I have a Bowden cable of about 35cm on my repstrap, and find setting the Dimension -> Retraction Distance to around 2.5 to 2.75mm prevents most stringing. I have my feed rate set to 25mm/s - I could go a lot faster, but don't have any grub screws on my motor pulleys, so they can slip. I do still have a bit of blobbing, particularly in holes and when the Z axis moves, when it unwinds after a move before starting printing again, but I tend to drill these out anyway.

Thanks!

@drofarts: do you use Absolute or Relative extrusion distance?

Ill set it for 2.5.

My feedrate is 9, flow rate 16. I set it low because I was having the pressure issues pushing on the bowden cable. Do you think I should increase it? If so by how much?

Turn on Comb. Sublime prints without retract using a bowden type extruder and that seems to take care of strings from ooze. If you're having problems with the cable clamp getting soft due to heat, then you should cool it with air before increasing your feed rate.

Thanks brnrd,

I'll try it out.