Problems with Geeetech prusa i3 pro W

Hello,
I recently acquired a Geeetech prusa i3 pro W. I assembled and wired it correctly with at least 4-5 check-ups, but when I try to preheat a few things happen:
if I have the printer connected to my pc, the PSU starts blinking a green led and making a ticking noise.
if I try without the printer connected to the pc, it does what kinda looks like a reboot and it doesn't change the temperature.
when i do "control-temperature" and I try to change bed temperature, it reboots
when I try "control-movement" to move Y-axis it only moves forward
when I try with Z-axis it moves the steppers but doesn't move the axis
I've tried everything and I don't know what else to do, if someone can help i will be very grateful

Could be bad power supply. Could be a short between the power going to the bed heater and ground.

Does it auto home? That's a real test that the end stops and motors are working.

Printers power on in "unknown position", and if the endstops are wired wrong, they won't move (thinks the endstop is triggered when it isn't).

I can´t seem to make the drivers work, so I can´t tell you if it auto-homes or not... the wires are correctly placed, I checked so many times and that's not the problem. If it was bad power supply, what would be the solution? Thank you

You generally get A4988 "cheap" drivers with this printer, and they need to be set to give current to 1 Amp. As supplied, they might not be adjusted at all. The adjustment is done by screwing a little pot screw on the driver. Care needs to taken to just use enough force to turn it, too much and you break it. It has minimum and max positions.

Usually the power supply isn't very good at supplying power and has no mains earth connection. Which means, the "ground" connection on the printer is in an ambiguous position in relation to mains ground, hence the issue with PC connection via usb (the two systems are sharing a ground, but the power supply in each is trying to put the ground at different positions. The most "butch", smartest power supply wins the tug of war contest for ground position, usually the PC one).

It's nearly always a good idea to replace a Chinese power supply on a budget printer. Especially if it has a 12 volt heated bed. Even if the power supply is beefy enough to give the amps, usually the cables supplying power are too thin to actually supply full current.

Not every Chinese power supply is so rubbish, but that's chiefly what you get with export budget 3d printers.

EDIT:
The Z axis motors moving but the axis not coud be the couplers are secure to the motor shafts, but not bolted on tight to the vertical rods that move the print assembly up and down by rotating.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/12/2021 05:04AM by DragonFire.