What do you guys think of J-Head MKIII Hot Ends?

I'm trying to decide on which Hot End to get for my Prusa and I'm leaning towards the J-Head MKIII. And thoughts and suggestions would be much appreciated.

I've got one from archol.hu and it seems to be made quite nicely, although I still need to assemble it, from what i've heard and from close inspection of all the parts, it looks relatively descent, if you want to fork out the cash

Schulz

HI..

Too diffrent hotends.

The arcol is a good hotend by what I have heard, the J Head was tested by rotorit, you can find his vid on youtube [www.youtube.com]
Or better still try going to the irc channel and asking question from the maker and other who use it..

All in all I belive it's a good hotend and a good price.

Auzze

Thanks! I ended up purchasing it. So every thing is ordered now just need to decide on powersupply and get some plastic (for printing).
I assume you're still building yours?

Late to the party here....I've been printing with a J-head for some months now

NO..

I have 3 printer all running..
Huxley
Prusa
Mini Prusa..

I make my own hotends but still run a mendel-parts V4 in my prusa..
NO, I don't print parts or make and sell hotends.. If people can't support the locals then it's not worth doing stuff for reprap..

Auzze

bmsweb Wrote:
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> Thanks! I ended up purchasing it. So every thing
> is ordered now just need to decide on powersupply
> and get some plastic (for printing).
> I assume you're still building yours?

There are locals? If so they are pretty hard to find. I also asked if anyone is producing printed parts and didn't get a response to that. I guess there must be some locals producing parts, guess it depends on how much effort you're willing to put in to find them.

I'm not aware of any locals supplying either hot ends or complete RP sets myself.

One of things I've been working on is trying to make hot ends from locally sourced components. BOC sell standard pitch M6 brass nozzles with a hole down the middle of them that are very easy to drill out, even by hand (the hole helps guide the drill bit). They're rated at 6mm but I reckon they're closer to 8, easy enough to fill-and-drill with plumbers solder though. Nichrome wire from Dick Smith or Jaycar works fine for heating but it needs to be insulated with Kapton tape.

The main problem is trying to control the temperature gradient up the barrel. PTFE and PEEK are both available from RS Components but are horrifyingly expensive. High temp ceramics work really well but crumble too easily and block the nozzle; plus they're difficult to source in small quantities. My most promising attempt so far was using the barrel from a telescopic antenna insulated with Vidaflex fibreglass sleeving (from Jaycar) running through a BOC ceramic ferrule that I'd filled with fire cement and insulated with Kapton tape at the point where it meets the extruder block. In that particular case the nozzle didn't work because of something else I was trying at the time but the temperature at the top was < 50 degrees and it only cost about $20 or so to make.